About to Ram the end of the Marina between two boats

Overtaken

In the time it took us to sail from the short marker to the medium marker, this young lady and her Dad in the Mirror Dinghy travelled from the short to the home and then up to the long, overtaking us.

 

OOD Training

 

As I move into my second year at the club, I have been promoted to the Sailing Secretary, a Duty Team Leader, responsible for upsetting all sorts of people, giving them jobs they don't want to do and receiving my Officer of the Day Training. Getting ready for the first race of the season and ensuring that the Club has enough competent members to run the races.

When I think of an Officer of the Day I am reminded of the MASH episode when Dr Hawkeye Piece has made Officer of the Day for one Episode and the Chaos that ensued. Perhaps for this reason each year the Upper Thames Sailing Club does some OOD training to ensure that the day runs smoothly and there is someone in overall charge.

Starting the Race

• ​5 minutes to start – Sound the horn and 1st (class) flag up.

• 4 minutes to start – ​Sound the horn and 2nd (Blue Peter) flag up. This will be a blue flag with a white square in the centre.
• 1 minutes to start – ​Sound the horn and 2nd (Blue Peter) flag down
• The start – ​Sound the horn and Class flag down and the race is on.
• If anyone is past the start line wave the White flag with the blue cross. Do not call out the number of the boat. Can shout out the number of boats past the line.

Setting the Boards

The First Number is the class,
the the order of the marks
In this example Short Home, Medium Home Rounding to Port
And the number of Laps 

Nearly Racing

I would like to think that we were in the lead, but we failed to make the start of the race - by about a lap, getting the boat ready from its winter storage, but it was light winds so we enjoyed cruising around the marks taking photographs of the racing dinghies

 

Weighing Dainty Too

 Setting up Dainty Too a being restored A-Rater Dinghy from the 1920's to be weighed. The boats have to be heavier than the minimum weight. Dainty Too Passed.

Safety Boat Course Day 1

Safety Boat Course

 ​ It was great to out on the water again. The weather was typical for February, but the promised rain was very light and only occasional. Six of us and two instructors wrapped up for the cold set off up river to learn some safety boat procedures. Heading up stream the boats were in formation, testing the powerboat skills of the students as we had to keep 4 feet from the boat in front and then speeding up the river line abreast.

Three Safety Boats out on the River​

As we went up the river the lead boat with the instructors in weaved around and turned circles with the other two boats trying to keep up. ​The crew swapped over the helm position, and we repeated the manoeuvres for all the students.

T6 Becomes a bath tub

The three boats were in line abreast, T6 at the end. The Dory T8 to starboard of T6 accelerated away to move around the bow of T4 creating a large wake. The Helm of T6 released the throttle and T6 lurched to a halt and the bow dipped as the bow wave came over us and the boat immediately became a bath tub with water up to my knees. We started bailing with the one bailer and the other boats came along side giving us their bailers  so all three of us could bail.

​As fast as we could it still took us 20 minutes to empty the boat. My next pair of waterproof socks will be over the knee versions or preferably waders.

Getting a Tow astern.

​Safety boat crews must expect to get wet. Following our impromptu bath we carried out many man overboard drills, pick up tens of bodies in the water and learning how to tow a safety boat that has run out of fuel. We learnt the advantages of dropping the anchor when in trouble and after  a hard morning work we returned to the clubhouse for some lunch before heading out again to rescue an Oppi, a topper and reversing onto a beach using the anchor. It was a great day out on the river and fun too. It is so nice when you can have fun and learn at the same time.

Episode 10: All About Anchors

Episode 10: All About Anchors

Anchors are essential equipment for any powerboat, providing security and stability when you need to stay in one place. In this episode, we’ll explore the different types of anchors, their advantages and disadvantages, and the proper techniques for deploying and recovering an anchor from a small powerboat.

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1. Types of Anchors: Pros and Cons

Each type of anchor is suited to different seabeds and boating conditions. Here’s an overview:

1. Fluke Anchor (Danforth Anchor)

   • Best Use: Soft seabeds like sand or mud.
   • Advantages:
     • Lightweight and easy to handle.
     • High holding power in soft substrates.
   • Disadvantages:
     • Poor performance in rocky or weedy areas.

2. Plough Anchor

   • Best Use: Versatile, suitable for sand, mud, and weedy seabeds.
   • Advantages:
     • Excellent holding power.
     • Resets itself well if the wind or tide changes.
   • Disadvantages:
     • Heavier and bulkier than a fluke anchor.

3. Claw Anchor (Bruce Anchor)

   • Best Use: Mixed seabeds, including rock and coral.
   • Advantages:
     • Easy to set and reliable in a variety of conditions.
     • Stable under changing wind and tide.
   • Disadvantages:
     • Moderate holding power compared to plough anchors.

4. Grapnel Anchor

   • Best Use: Small boats, dinghies, and rocky seabeds.
   • Advantages:
     • Lightweight and compact, making it ideal for small powerboats.
     • Holds well in rocky or rough terrain.
   • Disadvantages:
     • Difficult to retrieve if it becomes lodged in rocks.

5. Mushroom Anchor

   • Best Use: Permanent moorings in soft seabeds.
   • Advantages:
     • High holding power over time.
     • Suitable for long-term anchoring.
   • Disadvantages:
     • Not practical for frequent deployment and recovery.
     • Ineffective on hard or rocky seabeds.

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2. How to Deploy an Anchor

Deploying an anchor correctly ensures it holds securely and doesn’t damage the seabed or your boat.

1. Choose the Right Spot:

   • Select an area with suitable depth and seabed for your anchor type.
   • Ensure there is enough room to swing safely if the wind or tide shifts.

2. Prepare the Anchor:

   • Attach the anchor securely to the boat’s anchor rode (chain or rope).
   • Check that the rode is free of tangles and knots.

3. Lower, Don’t Throw:

   • Slowly lower the anchor over the bow to avoid tangling or damaging the boat.
   • Allow the anchor to sink until it touches the seabed.

4. Set the Anchor:

   • Let out the appropriate amount of rode, typically 3 to 5 times the water depth.
   • Reverse the boat slowly to allow the anchor to dig into the seabed.

5. Check the Hold:

   • Gently apply reverse power to ensure the anchor is holding securely.
   • Use landmarks or GPS to confirm the boat isn’t drifting.

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3. How to Recover an Anchor

Recovering an anchor requires care to avoid strain on the equipment or injury.

1. Position the Boat:

   • Move the boat directly above the anchor using the engine to reduce tension on the rope.

2. Retrieve the Rode:

   • Pull the rode hand-over-hand or use a windlass if available.
   • Keep the rode clear of tangles and watch for strain on the line.

3. Break the Anchor Free:

   • Once the boat is directly above the anchor, apply gentle forward power or rock the boat slightly to break the anchor free from the seabed.

4. Clean the Anchor:

   • Wash off any mud, sand, or debris before stowing the anchor.

5. Stow Securely:

   • Secure the anchor and rode properly to prevent damage to the boat or injury during transit.

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Conclusion

Anchoring is a fundamental skill for powerboaters, and knowing the right type of anchor for the conditions is key to a safe and successful experience. Mastering the deployment and recovery process will give you confidence in keeping your boat secure in various situations.