Adventure Upstream – When the Wind and Stream Collide

 

Adventure Upstream – When the Wind and Stream Collide

Sailing upstream on the Thames is a beautiful challenge — and a test of everything you've learned about wind, water, and teamwork. It looks peaceful, but when the wind direction meets the river’s current head-on, you're in for a slow-motion adventure that demands patience, skill… and sometimes a little luck.

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The Push and the Pull

When the stream is flowing downstream and the wind is blowing upstream, things get interesting. The wind fills your sails and urges the boat forward — but the stream fights back, quietly dragging you back the way you came. The result?

• Your boat heels nicely.

• The sails look great.

• And you're… barely moving.

Welcome to the illusion of progress.

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Why It Matters

Learning to sail in these conditions teaches:

• Precise sail trim – every inch of power counts.

• Momentum conservation – tacks need to be clean and deliberate.

• Reading the river – spotting wind shadows and eddies helps find that little bit of extra speed.

You’ll quickly learn that going backwards with style is still going backwards.

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Tacking Across a Moving Floor

The stream creates a moving floor. Every tack must account for:

• The push of the river sideways across your boat.

• The fact that the boat might stall mid-tack if you're not fast enough.

• That moment when you tack... and the boat doesn't quite make it. (Cue frantic jib adjustments.)

It’s hard enough when the wind is steady. When it's gusty and fluky near trees or buildings, it becomes a sailing chess match.

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Top Tip: Don't Oversteer

In light wind and strong stream, every movement matters.
Oversteer your tack and the bow gets caught. Understeer and you drift sideways.
Timing your tiller movement with just enough sail power to swing you through the turn is key.

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Final Word

It’s frustrating. It’s slow. It’s where races are won, and lessons are learned.

But sailing upstream when the wind and stream are at odds is also quietly magical.
There’s no roar of the wind — just ripples, gentle sails, and your boat inching forward.
Until, of course, you hit a tree shadow and the boat pirouettes in place while your crew looks at you and says:
"I thought you said we were moving?"

📖 Read more sailing adventures and lessons at: https://pmrsailing.uk

Sailing Term Spotlight: The Kicker

 

Sailing Term Spotlight: The Kicker

What it does, why it matters, and how to adjust it
pmrsailing.uk blog

Among the mysterious spaghetti of ropes on a sailing dinghy, one line often gets overlooked by beginners: the kicker (also known as a vang if you're being American about it).

It’s not flashy. It doesn’t hoist a sail or steer the boat. But the kicker plays a crucial role in shaping your sail and controlling power — especially when you're heading downwind.

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What Is the Kicker?

The kicker is the line or tackle system that pulls down on the boom, creating tension on the leech (the back edge) of the sail.

When you're sailing downwind or on a broad reach, the mainsheet goes slack — and without the kicker, the boom lifts up and the sail flaps uselessly. The kicker holds the boom down, keeping the sail flatter, better-shaped, and more powerful.

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Why It Matters

• Downwind Control:
  Stops the boom from lifting, keeping the sail efficient when the mainsheet isn’t doing much.

• Sail Shape:
  Pulling on the kicker tightens the leech and flattens the sail, reducing power in strong winds.
  Easing it off makes the sail fuller, increasing power in lighter winds.

• Preventing Helm Overload:
  A poorly set kicker can cause excessive weather helm (that feeling the boat always wants to turn upwind), which tires the helm out and slows the boat down.

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How to Adjust the Kicker

• Upwind in Light Winds:
  Ease the kicker to allow a fuller sail.

• Upwind in Strong Winds:
  Tighten the kicker to flatten the sail and reduce heeling.

• Downwind:
  Tighten it — this is when it’s most useful. Keeps the sail working when the mainsheet can't.

⚠️ But don’t overdo it! A too-tight kicker can damage your boom or mast fittings. Always ease it off before going upwind or tacking.

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Top Tip for Beginners

Mark your kicker rope with coloured tape at common settings. It helps you return to a known trim quickly when conditions change — or when you're trying to remember what you did right last time.

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Mastering the kicker is one of those small skills that makes a big difference to how your dinghy sails. It’s not just a rope – it’s your downwind secret weapon.

📖 More sailing terms explained here:
https://pmrsailing.uk/sailing-lessons/Sailing-Terms.html

How Many Sailors Does It Take to Fix a Jib Line?

 

How Many Sailors Does It Take to Fix a Jib Line?

A pmrsailing.uk tale of knots, comedy, and one very wet pontoon mishap

It all started with a rope.
Specifically, the jib sheet, which had mysteriously worked its way out of the mast. No big deal, you might think — just thread it back through, right?

Ah. If only.
There was no mousing line (the thin line you leave behind for just such emergencies). And so began an epic, many-handed saga that proved, once and for all, that boat maintenance is a team sport… or a spectator event, depending on where you're standing.

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Stage 1 – 4 People, 1 Big Idea

​The plan: Wheel the boat, on its trailer, over to the clubhouse balcony. Position the mast next to the balcony and drop a line from the top. Much easier than putting the boat in the water and heeling it over.
Four of us pushed, heaved, and aligned the boat like it was the final move in a sailing-themed game of Tetris, towards the balcony. The mast was considerably higher than the balcony, so out came the tall step ladder.

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Stage 2 – 5 People, Still No Progress

Enter the Commodore, who, with great ceremony, climbed the ladder to feed the new rope down. But alas, it snagged — probably on the knot near the spreaders.
Progress: none. Rope: stuck. Ladder: still tall.

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Stage 3 – 7 People, New Plan

More reinforcements arrived.
“Take the mast down, work at ground level!” someone declared. And so we did. Tools appeared. Spanners were brandished. A plastic block (through which all ropes mysteriously fed) had to be removed.
Someone tried to fish a stiff wire up the mast, hook it from above, then attach the rope.
It sounded plausible. It wasn’t.

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Stage 4 – 10 People, Now With Toolkit

Enter Martin, bearing a well-loved toolkit and a string with a lead weight — our DIY mousing line!
Unfortunately, it was tangled. Very tangled.
While Martin was unravelling, others reattempted the wire trick. Still didn’t work.

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Stage 5 – 12 People, and Finally Some Hope

Someone had a genius idea: raise the mast again, this time while standing on a chair. The mast was now lower (still on the ground), which was technically progress.
With delicate precision and a lot of breath-holding, the mousing line went in at the top… and appeared at the bottom!
The jib rope was attached and pulled through.
Victory!
We’d done it. After only a dozen sailors, several spanners, a step ladder, a chair, a lead weight, and a deeply frayed sense of dignity.

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Just One More Thing...

Reassembling the mast turned out to be… fiddly. Several other ropes had slipped out of their pulleys and guides in the panic. The mast went up, then down, then half-up, then sideways.

At this point, I wisely left them to it and headed out with Ray in the safety boat, offering the occasional sympathetic wave as we cruised past the mast-wrestling crew.

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Final Act – The Splash

As we tied up the safety boat at the end of the session, Ray hopped off to secure the bow line. Somehow, his foot found the one place it shouldn’t — the gap beside the pontoon.
Time slowed.
There was no splashy drama, just a smooth, controlled bottom-first descent into the Thames.
Only his pride was injured. (And perhaps his phone.)

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What Did We Learn?

• Always leave a mousing line.

• Twelve sailors can, eventually, thread one rope.

• Even seasoned safety boat drivers are no match for wet pontoons.

And most importantly: never underestimate how long a “quick fix” on a dinghy will actually take.

📖 More tales of tangled ropes, near-capsizes and victorious thirds at: https://pmrsailing.uk

A Beginner’s Guide to the RYA Sail Racing Starting Sequence

 

A Beginner’s Guide to the RYA Sail Racing Starting Sequence

pmrsailing.uk blog

If you’ve ever lined up for a dinghy race and found yourself asking “Was that the warning or the preparatory signal?” you’re not alone.

The Royal Yachting Association (RYA) uses a structured sequence to start races — but when you’re juggling the tiller, sail trim, and wind shifts, it can feel like a blur of flags and whistles.

This guide breaks down the starting sequence so you know exactly when to go, and more importantly, when not to.

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What Is the RYA Starting Sequence?

It’s a series of signals, usually flags and sound signals, that count you down to the start of a race. The standard sequence is:

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5 Minutes Before the Start: Warning Signal

• Flag raised (usually the class flag)

• One sound signal

Tells you the race is about to begin. Make sure you’re near the start line, watching the wind, and trimming your sails.

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4 Minutes Before the Start: Preparatory Signal

• P flag (or I, Z, U, or Black in some cases) raised

• One sound signal

This is your “get serious” moment. No more drifting. Start lining up and jockeying for position. If it's the P flag, normal rules apply. Other flags signal stricter penalties.

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1 Minute Before the Start: One-Minute Signal

• Preparatory flag lowered

• One long sound signal

No turning back now. You must stay behind the line. Jump the start and you’ll be forced to return or be disqualified.

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0 Minutes: Starting Signal

• Class flag lowered

• One sound signal

GO! Cross the line as close to the signal as possible without being early. Timing and positioning are everything.

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What If You’re Over the Line Early?

The committee boat may raise an Individual Recall flag (X flag) and call sail numbers. If you’re over, you must return and restart properly — or you’ll be scored OCS (On Course Side) and not counted.

If several boats are over and can’t be identified, they may abandon the start and try again — sometimes with a more punitive flag (like the Black Flag, where early starters are disqualified immediately).

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Tips for Beginners

• Start your watch at the 5-minute signal. Learn the rhythm.

• Know your class flag. You don’t want to react to someone else’s start.

• Practice holding your position near the line without drifting over.

• Keep an ear out. If you miss the flag, the sound signal is your backup.

• If in doubt, ask! There’s always a sailor nearby happy to explain it.

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Starting well is half the race. Master the signals, and you’ll be ready to cross that line with confidence — or at least, in the right direction.

📖 More race tips at: https://pmrsailing.uk

The Art of Crew Balance in a Dinghy

The Art of Crew Balance in a Dinghy

If you're new to dinghy sailing, you might think the sails do all the work. But the real unsung hero of every successful tack, gust recovery, and capsize prevention is... crew balance.

Knowing when and where to shift your weight can make the difference between slicing through a gust and swimming in it.

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Why Does Weight Placement Matter?

Dinghies are light, sensitive boats. The distribution of weight — especially fore and aft (front to back) and side to side — directly affects:

• Speed

• Steering

• Heel (tilt)

• Stability

If the weight’s in the wrong place, the boat becomes sluggish, wobbly, or dangerously unbalanced. Get it right, and the boat feels like it’s flying.

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Side to Side – The Big One

This is where most beginner capsizes happen. When the wind pushes the sails, the boat heels (tilts). The crew’s job is to counterbalance that force.

• In light wind: sit inboard and upright to reduce drag.

• In stronger wind: move outboard (onto the side or even hike out) to balance the heel.

The goal? Keep the boat as flat as possible.

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Fore and Aft – Trim is Key

Too far back? The stern digs in and you lose speed.

Too far forward? The bow ploughs and water comes over the top.

• On upwind legs, crew should sit close to the helm, but not too far back.

• On downwind, the crew may move slightly forward to help the boat plane and balance.

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Movement Must Be Smooth

Don’t just lurch from one side to the other — that can unbalance the boat even more. Move smoothly, decisively, and in sync with your helm. Good teams feel like they're dancing together on the water.

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Learn by Watching the Wake

A well-balanced boat leaves a clean wake — a narrow line behind it. If your wake is wide or foamy, something’s wrong with your trim.

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Practice Makes Perfect

Try this: sail straight, then deliberately move your weight around and observe how the boat responds. It’s the best way to learn balance by feel — and it builds confidence for gusty conditions.

📖 More crew tips at: https://pmrsailing.uk

 

A Podium Finish (Sort Of)

 

A Podium Finish (Sort Of)

We entered a couple of races on Sunday as part of the Autumn Series. The breeze was light, the sails barely filled, and progress up the river was slow—but determined.

In the final race of the day, there were only three boats on the start line. By the finish, only one was still out on the water… us.

And yes — we came third.

Before anyone gets too excited, let’s just say the competition had already finished, packed up, and were heading home while we were still drifting past the final mark. The safety boat crew, keen to tidy up, collected the marks just as we rounded them for the last time. That’s efficiency.

But third is third. And considering we’re usually “last with honour”, this is progress. A podium finish — and no capsizing.

Call it “less last.”
Call it a victory for persistence.
We’ll take it.

📖 Follow more of our slow but steady race adventures at: https://pmrsailing.uk/Philips-Blog/Third.html

Starting the Safety Boat – Pre-Checks That Save the Day

 

Starting the Safety Boat – Pre-Checks That Save the Day

pmrsailing.uk blog

You don’t want to find out your engine won’t start just as someone capsizes at the far end of the river. The safety boat must be ready to go before the first sailor even steps into a dinghy.

Whether you're using a petrol outboard or an electric engine, pre-launch checks are vital. They don’t take long — but skipping them can turn a smooth day into a disaster.

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Why Do Pre-Checks Matter?

Because the safety boat is exactly that — safety. It’s there to:

• Respond instantly to capsizes or injury

• Lay or recover marks

• Tow boats

• Watch over young or nervous sailors

And none of that happens if you’re drifting aimlessly with a dead engine and a flat radio battery.

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The 10 Pre-Launch Checks Every Safety Boat Crew Should Do

1. Battery or Fuel Check

Is there enough charge (electric) or fuel (petrol)? Check now — don’t assume.

2. Kill Cord Test

Ensure the kill cord works and is properly attached to the helm’s lifejacket.

3. Engine Start Test

Run the engine for 30 seconds before launching. Listen for anything unusual.

4. Propeller Inspection

Check it’s clear of weeds, lines, or damage. A fouled prop will leave you stranded.

5. Steering and Throttle Movement

Turn the tiller or wheel fully both ways. Check the throttle works smoothly.

6. Life Jackets and Throw Line

Make sure both crew have buoyancy aids and that a throw line is onboard and accessible.

7. Paddle or Oars

Even powerboats need paddles. Just in case.

8. Radio Check

Make contact with the Officer of the Day or the other safety boat. Check signal and battery.

9. Anchor and Line

Is there an anchor onboard with enough line? Essential if you need to hold position or assist.

10. Tow Line Ready

Have a floating line or bridle rigged and ready to tow another boat quickly.

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Make It Routine

Get into the habit. It only takes 5 minutes, but it means you’re ready for anything.

Better to discover a flat battery at the slipway than 300 metres upstream.

📖 Download a full checklist or learn more at: https://pmrsailing.uk