The Dinghy Show Is Coming… Do You Really Need a New Boat?

With the RYA Dinghy Show fast approaching and the new sailing season just around the corner, this is the point in the year when sailors start asking that question:

“Is this the season I finally upgrade?”

The Dinghy Show is dangerous territory. Not because of heavy weather or tricky tides – but because it’s full of beautiful boats, clever gadgets, pristine sails, and people who look impossibly competent while holding carbon fibre things.

And suddenly, your perfectly serviceable boat at the club starts to look… tired.

What’s New This Season?

Every year brings refinements rather than revolutions:

• Lighter hulls and smarter layouts

• Cleaner control systems and neater decks

• Foils, fittings and sails that promise just a bit more speed

• Electronics creeping ever closer to the dinghy sailor

None of this is bad. Some of it is genuinely brilliant. But most of it sits firmly in the “nice to have” category rather than “game-changer”.

The More Important Question: What Do You Need?

Before falling in love with a new hull shape or a glossy brochure, it’s worth asking:

• What kind of sailing do I actually do?

• River or open water?

• Training, cruising, club racing, or just staying upright?

• Who crews with me – and are we comfortable?

For many sailors, especially those learning or returning to the sport, the biggest gains don’t come from new boats at all. They come from:

• Better sail handling

• Improved balance and positioning

• Understanding wind shifts and river effects

• Confidence gained through time on the water

None of these are available at the chandlery stand – sadly.

When a New Boat Does Make Sense

Of course, sometimes a change really is justified:

• You’ve outgrown your current boat (literally or skill-wise)

• Your sailing has shifted direction

• You want something easier to rig, launch, or sail single-handed

• Your current boat is limiting enjoyment, not performance

In those cases, the Dinghy Show is invaluable – because you can sit in boats, ask awkward questions, and compare reality with marketing.

A Gentle Warning…

If you leave the Dinghy Show convinced that a new boat will magically fix tacks, gybes, starts, and confidence – it probably won’t.

But if you leave with:

• A clearer idea of what suits your sailing

• One or two smart upgrades

• Renewed enthusiasm for the season ahead

Then it’s done its job perfectly.

The new season is coming. The boats will be rigged. The river (eventually) will calm down.

Whether you turn up with a brand-new boat or the same one as last year – it’s the sailing that matters.

 

The Third Crew Member in an A-Rater: The Mid Hand Who Makes It All Work

When people talk about an A-Rater, they usually focus on the helm’s finesse or the jib hand’s lightning-fast reactions. But there’s a third crew member  the mid hand, often quieter, sometimes overlooked, and absolutely vital to the boat’s performance.

They are the human ballast and the master of maintaining the mainsail shape— the living, breathing counterweight that keeps several square metres of sail power pointing forwards rather than sideways.

And in an A-Rater, that job is not optional.

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Why an A-Rater Needs a Third Crew Member

A-Raters are:

• Long

• Light

• Extremely powerful for their weight

They were designed for the Thames, where light winds, gusts from trees, and shifty conditions are the norm. The rig is generous, the hull is narrow, and the margins between “flying” and “falling over” are… slim.

That’s where the mid hand comes in.

Without effective ballast:

• The boat heels too far

• The foils lose efficiency

• The helm fights weather helm

• Speed vanishes

• Control becomes guesswork

The third crew member is what turns raw sail power into controlled forward motion.

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Tensioning the Runners

Keeping the Mast Straight Through Tacks and Gybes

On a Thames A-Rater, the mast doesn’t just stand there. It’s alive. It bends, twists, and reacts instantly to changes in load. And one of the most important jobs in the boat—often happening quietly and very quickly—is tensioning the runners to keep that mast straight and the sails working as designed.

Get it right, and the boat accelerates smoothly out of a tack or gybe.
Get it wrong, and the sail shape collapses, power leaks away, and the helm starts fighting the boat.

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Why Runners Matter So Much on an A-Rater

A-Raters carry:

• Tall, lightly supported masts

• Powerful mainsails

• Large overlapping jibs

Unlike boats with swept-back shrouds doing most of the work, an A-Rater relies heavily on running backstays (runners) to control mast bend and forestay tension.

Without the correct runner tension:

• The mast bends off to leeward

• Forestay tension drops

• The jib becomes baggy

• The mainsail loses its designed shape

In short: speed disappears.

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The Goal: A Straight Mast at the Right Moment

The key phrase here is “at the right moment.”

You don’t want maximum tension all the time. You want:

• Enough tension to support the mast

• Enough flexibility to allow sail power

• Smooth transitions during manoeuvres

The runner system is about control, not brute force.

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Runners During a Tack: A Coordinated Dance

A tack is the moment when runner work really earns its keep.

Typical sequence:

1. Old windward runner stays on as the boat turns

2. Mast remains supported while the jib unloads

3. As the bow comes through the wind, the new runner is prepared

4. Once the sail fills on the new tack, the new windward runner is tensioned

5. The old runner is then eased cleanly

Too early:

• Mast over-bends

• Power vanishes mid-tack

Too late:

• Mast sags to leeward

• Forestay goes soft

• Jib shape turns into a laundry bag

Timing matters more than strength.

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Runners During a Gybe: Controlled, Not Casual

Gybes can look gentler—but the loads can be savage.

Downwind:

• Apparent wind is lower

• But boom movement is large

• Shock loads are real

During a gybe:

• The active runner must be eased progressively

• The new runner should be taken up early

• Mast support must be continuous as the boom crosses

A sloppy runner change can:

• Let the mast flick sideways

• Distort sail shape instantly

• Shock-load fittings and rigging

Good crews make it look boring. That’s the sign it’s being done properly.

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Sail Shape Is the Payoff

Why all this effort?

Because correct runner tension:

• Keeps the forestay firm → jib sets flatter and points higher

• Controls mast bend → mainsail depth stays where the sailmaker intended

• Maintains balance → lighter helm, less drag

• Preserves momentum → especially vital on rivers

On the Thames, where acceleration out of manoeuvres matters more than raw top speed, this is huge.

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Who’s Responsible?

Runner control usually sits with:

• Or the mid hand acting as ballast and rig controller

It’s a role that demands:

• Anticipation

• Feel

• Communication with the helm

Often, the best runner work happens without a word being spoken.

Positioning: Inches Matter

The ballast crew normally sits low and central, but never passively.

Their position constantly changes:

• Upwind: slightly to windward, maximising righting moment

• Reaching: adjusting fore-and-aft trim to keep the hull free

• Downwind: often moving forward to stop the stern dragging

In an A-Rater, moving your backside six inches can change:

• Helm balance

• Rudder drag

• Whether the boat accelerates… or sulks

This isn’t dead weight. It’s dynamic trim control.

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Stability Is Speed

Flat boats are fast boats — especially on a river.

By keeping the boat level, the ballast crew:

• Keeps the centreboard working efficiently

• Reduces leeway

• Allows the helm to steer delicately instead of defensively

• Lets the jib hand keep the sail drawing instead of depowering

In gusty Thames conditions, the ballast crew often reacts before the helm speaks:

• Gust hits → move out

• Lull arrives → ease back in

That anticipation is gold dust.

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Communication Without Words

In a well-sailed A-Rater:

• The helm feels trim changes

• The jib hand sees the sail response

• The mid hand moves instinctively and tensions the sails

There doesn’t need to be constant shouting. A subtle shift of weight can be:

• A signal that pressure is building

• A cue that a tack is imminent

• A warning that the boat is about to load up

It’s sailing as choreography, not committee meeting.

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Physical, Yes — But Also Strategic

Yes, the role can be tiring. Hiking for long beats on the Thames is no joke.

But the ballast crew also:

• Watches wind lines on the water

• Spots gusts rolling down from the banks

• Feels changes in heel before instruments (or humans) notice

• Acts as an early-warning system

In many ways, they are the boat’s balance sensor.

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The Unsung Hero of the Crew

The helm gets the glory.
The jib hand gets the praise.

The mid hand gets… sore legs and quiet satisfaction knowing that they got the boat through every tack and gybe.

But without them:

• The boat won’t point

• The boat won’t accelerate

• The boat won’t forgive mistakes

In an A-Rater, the third crew member doesn’t just sit there.

They make the boat sailable.

 (Going through all the photographs and videos, it took me ages to find a photo where I wasn't doing anything with the crew.)

The Role of the Crew Member in a Two-Handed Dinghy

(Why the person not holding the tiller is doing far more than you think)

When people first step into a two-handed dinghy, there’s a common assumption:

“The helm does the sailing… the crew just sits there.”

Nothing could be further from the truth.

In reality, a good crew member is half the brain, half the engine, and most of the balance system of a two-handed dinghy. On a river like the Thames, where wind shifts, bends, and obstructions are constant, the crew’s role becomes even more important.

1. Weight and Balance – The Invisible Controls

The crew’s body weight is one of the most powerful controls on the boat.

• Moving in and out controls heel

• Moving forwards and aft affects trim and speed

• Hiking keeps the sails driving rather than spilling wind

On a river, where gusts arrive sideways off trees and buildings, the crew often reacts before the helm even thinks about it.

If the helm steers the boat, the crew keeps it sailing flat, fast, and upright.

2. Sail Handling – Especially the Jib

The crew usually controls the jib, and that makes them critical during:

• Tacks – easing at the right moment, trimming in smoothly

• Gybing – keeping things calm, controlled, and tangle-free

• Upwind work – adjusting sheet tension for changing wind

Pull too early and you steer the boat the wrong way.
Pull too late and you lose momentum.

Good jib work feels invisible. Bad jib work is instantly obvious.

3. Communication – Talking the Boat Around the River

A two-handed dinghy works best when it sounds like a quiet conversation, not a debate.

The crew often has:

• The better view of traffic, buoys, and riverbanks

• Time to watch gusts coming down the water

• Capacity to call “gust coming”, “ready about”, or “hold it”

On a river, anticipation matters more than reaction – and the crew is usually best placed to spot what’s coming next.

4. Boat Handling Ashore and Afloat

Crew work doesn’t stop when the boat stops sailing.

Launching, landing, holding the boat head-to-wind, stepping masts, sorting sheets, and keeping things tidy all fall naturally into the crew role. A calm, organised crew makes everything else easier – especially at busy slipways.

5. The Confidence Builder

For many new sailors, crewing is the perfect way to learn:

• You feel how the boat responds

• You learn sail shapes and wind awareness

• You build confidence before taking the helm

In fact, many excellent helms started out as thoughtful, observant crew members.

Final Thought

In a two-handed dinghy, the helm may hold the tiller – but the crew makes the boat work.

Get the crew role right, and sailing becomes smoother, faster, and far more enjoyable. Get it wrong, and no amount of steering will save you.

 

Getting the Seating Position Right in a Sailing Dinghy

Small movements. Big gains.

One of the first things you discover when learning to sail a dinghy is that where you sit matters just as much as what you do with the sails. Move your weight a few inches forward or aft, or lean a little too far inboard, and the boat’s behaviour changes instantly.

This isn’t about comfort.
It’s about balance, control, and performance.

Why seating position matters

A sailing dinghy is light, responsive, and very honest. It tells you immediately when something isn’t quite right:

• Sitting too far aft drags the transom, slows the boat, and makes steering heavy

• Sitting too far forward buries the bow and increases drag

• Sitting too far inboard lets the boat heel excessively

• Sitting too far outboard in light winds stops the sails working efficiently

Your body is not just along for the ride — you are part of the boat’s control system.

Fore and aft balance – trim is everything

Think of the dinghy as a see-saw:

• In light winds, sit slightly forward to reduce transom drag

• In moderate winds, aim for level trim with the waterline flat

• In strong winds, move aft a touch to keep the bow from digging in

A well-trimmed boat glides.
A poorly trimmed one feels sticky and slow, no matter how hard you pull the ropes.

Side-to-side balance – controlling heel

Heel is not the enemy — excessive heel is.

• Sit inboard in very light winds to encourage the sails to fill

• Move outboard as the wind increases to keep the boat upright

• Hike only as much as needed — over-hiking can stall the sails

A flat boat is generally a fast boat, especially on a river where acceleration out of tacks matters more than raw speed.

Crew coordination (double-handers)

In boats like the RS Toura, Wayfarer, or similar training dinghies, helm and crew must move together:

• Slide forward together in light airs

• Move aft together when planing

• Adjust side-to-side weight smoothly during tacks and gybes

Nothing unsettles a boat faster than one person moving without the other expecting it.

The quiet skill that makes everything easier

Getting the seating position right doesn’t look dramatic.
There’s no spray, no noise, no heroics.

But it:

• Improves speed

• Reduces weather helm

• Makes steering lighter

• Makes sail trim easier

• Makes the boat feel calm instead of twitchy

It’s one of those skills that, once learned, makes everything else suddenly fall into place.

Learning to Sail for the First Time: Why It All Starts on Dry Land

Where to sit, how to move, and why tacking and gybing begin before the boat even touches water 

Learning to sail doesn’t begin afloat.

In fact, some of the most important lessons happen on dry land, often beside a boat propped on tyres, while someone cheerfully shouts “Helm to lee!” and everyone else wonders which bit is “lee”.

This dry land drill is not about theory. It’s about muscle memory, confidence, and not panicking when the boat starts doing boat things.

For those of us learning to sail a little later in life, this bit is gold dust.

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Why Dry Land Drills Matter

On the water, everything happens at once:

• Wind gusts

• Boat heels

• Sails flap

• Someone says “Ready about?”

• And your brain goes on holiday

Dry land drills remove all of that noise. They let you focus on just three essentials:

1. Where to sit

2. How to move

3. What happens during a tack or gybe

Get those right on land, and suddenly the boat feels far less hostile.

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Where to Sit in a Dinghy (and Why It Matters)

Your body is part of the boat’s ballast.

Sit too far back and the stern drags.
Too far forward and the bow digs in.
Sit on the wrong side and gravity does the rest…

Basic rules that work on rivers and lakes:

• Sit facing forward, not twisted

• Keep your weight near the centre line

• Move smoothly, not suddenly

• Stay low when changing sides

On dry land, instructors will physically show you:

• Helm position

• Crew position

• How far to shuffle, not leap

It feels silly. It works brilliantly.

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Learning to Tack on Dry Land

A tack is turning the bow through the wind — and it’s mostly about timing and choreography.

On land, the drill usually goes like this:

• “Ready about?”

• “Ready!”

• “Lee-oh!”

Everyone practises:

• Swapping sides

• Ducking the boom

• Keeping weight balanced

• Not standing up like a startled meerkat

The aim is to make the movement automatic, so on the water you’re not thinking — you’re just doing.

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Learning to Gybe Without the Drama

A gybe is often treated like something terrifying.

In reality, the danger comes from:

• Rushing

• Standing up

• Not knowing where the boom is

Dry land drills slow it right down:

• Where the boom travels

• When to move

• How to stay low

• How to keep control rather than react

Once you’ve rehearsed it safely on land, the on-water version feels familiar rather than frightening.

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Why This Is Especially Important for Older Beginners

If you didn’t grow up jumping into dinghies at age ten, your brain likes clear sequences and predictability.

Dry land drills give you:

• Time to ask questions

• Space to repeat movements

• Confidence before consequences

They turn sailing from “slightly alarming” into “oh… that makes sense.”

 

Sailing and Steering Without a Rudder

(Yes – it really is possible)Most of us are taught very early on that the tiller is how you steer a boat.

Push it away, boat turns towards you. Pull it towards you, boat turns away.
Simple.

Except… sometimes the rudder breaks.
Or lifts out of the water.
Or you’re experimenting, learning, or just being curious on a quiet stretch of river.

And that’s when you discover something rather magical:

👉 Boats don’t actually need a rudder to turn.

The Rudder Isn’t the Boss

The rudder doesn’t decide where the boat goes – it merely encourages water flow to help the hull turn.

Long before the rudder does anything useful, three other things are already at work:

• Sail trim

• Boat balance

• Hull shape moving through water

If you understand those, steering without a rudder suddenly stops sounding impossible.

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How You Steer a Boat With No Rudder

1. Sail Trim = Direction Control

Think of the sail as a wing.

• Sheet in → the boat wants to turn towards the wind

• Ease the sail → the boat bears away from the wind

Even tiny changes in sheet tension will gently alter your course.

On a river, this is especially noticeable because speeds are low and everything happens in slow motion – perfect for learning.

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2. Body Weight Is a Steering Input

Move your weight and the boat reacts.

• Weight forward → bow digs in, boat bears away

• Weight aft → stern digs in, boat rounds up

• Heel the boat slightly and the underwater shape changes, creating a turn

This is why experienced sailors seem to “steer with their feet”.

They often are.

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3. Balance Beats Force

If the boat is balanced (sails trimmed, hull flat), it will happily sail straight with no rudder input at all.

If it’s unbalanced, you’ll be fighting it constantly – rudder or not.

This is why learning rudderless sailing is such a powerful teaching tool:
it brutally exposes poor trim.

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Try This (Safely)

On a quiet day, with room and a safety boat nearby:

1. Centre the rudder or lift it slightly

2. Sail on a close reach

3. Make small adjustments:

   • Sheet in a touch → watch her head up

   • Ease slightly → watch her bear away

4. Add gentle weight shifts

You’ll be astonished how controllable the boat is.

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Why This Matters on the Thames

River sailing exaggerates everything:

• Shifty winds

• Confined space

• Constant course changes

Understanding how to steer without relying on the rudder makes you:

• Smoother

• Faster

• Kinder to your crew

• Less panicked when things go wrong

And yes… it also makes docking and landing feel far more elegant.

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Final Thought

The rudder is a helper, not a crutch.

Once you realise that sails and balance do most of the steering, you stop wrestling the boat and start working with it.

And sailing becomes calmer, quieter, and oddly more satisfying.

Choosing the Correct Buoyancy Aid (Especially if you are small… or very large)

 

Choosing the Correct Buoyancy Aid

(Especially if you are small… or very large)

A buoyancy aid is one of those bits of kit you hope never to notice — until the moment you really need it. Then, suddenly, fit, comfort, and performance matter a lot more than colour or price.

And here’s the awkward truth: not all buoyancy aids fit all bodies equally well. If you’re very small, very large, or simply not built like the mannequin in the chandlery, choosing the right one takes a bit of thought.

Why fit matters more than brand

A buoyancy aid works by providing flotation in the right place. If it rides up, slips over your head, or restricts your movement, it won’t do its job properly — and it’ll be miserable to wear.

A poorly fitting buoyancy aid often leads to:

• Riding up under the chin in the water

• Twisting around the body when swimming

• Chafing under the arms

• Restricted movement when tacking, hiking, or scrambling back aboard

If it’s uncomfortable, people loosen it.
If it’s loose, it stops working properly.
That’s the slippery slope.

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If you are small or lightweight

This is particularly common with:

• Children moving into “adult” kit

• Petite adults

• Teenagers growing faster than their confidence

Common problems

• Buoyancy concentrated too high on the chest

• Oversized armholes

• Waist straps that tighten fully but are still loose

What to look for

• Weight-rated buoyancy (not just “Small”)

• Shorter body length so it doesn’t push up

• Multiple adjustment points (shoulders + sides, not just one strap)

• Snug fit before you even touch the straps

If you can lift the buoyancy aid by the shoulders and it comes up past your ears — it’s too big.

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If you are large, broad, or tall

This is just as common, but talked about less.

Common problems

• Buoyancy aids that technically “fit” but don’t fasten comfortably

• Foam panels that dig in when sitting or hiking

• Waist straps that are at their maximum from day one

What to look for

• Extended size ranges (XL, XXL, and beyond — not just “one size”)

• Longer cut so it doesn’t ride up

• Flexible foam or segmented panels

• Side-entry or front-zip designs for easier donning

A buoyancy aid should feel secure, not like you’re wearing a corset.

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Buoyancy aids vs lifejackets (a quick note)

For dinghy sailing, buoyancy aids are usually preferred because they:

• Allow freedom of movement

• Are comfortable to swim and climb in

• Don’t auto-inflate at awkward moments

But whichever you use, correct fit is non-negotiable.

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The simple test (do this in the shop)

1. Put it on and tighten it properly

2. Raise your arms fully overhead

3. Get someone to try lifting it by the shoulders

If it stays put and doesn’t try to escape over your head — you’re winning.

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The takeaway

There is no such thing as an “average sailor’s body”.
Choosing the right buoyancy aid isn’t about age, gender, or ego — it’s about fit, comfort, and safety.

If you’re small, you deserve kit that actually fits.
If you’re large, you deserve kit that doesn’t feel like a compromise.

And if you’re learning to sail — the right buoyancy aid makes everything feel calmer, safer, and more enjoyable.