Choosing the Right Sailing Gear – River Thames vs the Adriatic

One of the questions I often get asked by new sailors is: “What sailing gear should I buy?” The answer, rather unhelpfully, is usually “it depends where you’re sailing.” The kit that works perfectly on the River Thames in Bourne End is not necessarily the same gear you’d want when sailing on the open sea.

Most of my sailing so far has been on the River Thames at Upper Thames Sailing Club, learning in our RS Toura. River sailing has its own character. The water is relatively sheltered, the wind is often gusty as it funnels between trees and houses, and if you capsize you are rarely far from the bank—or a helpful safety boat. Because of this, the clothing I typically wear is fairly straightforward: a buoyancy aid, sailing gloves, wetsuit or drysuit depending on the season, and good grippy sailing boots. Comfort and flexibility matter more than extreme weather protection.

However, this April I’ll be sailing somewhere very different — the Adriatic coast of Croatia while working towards my Competent Crew qualification. Sea sailing brings a completely different set of considerations. The wind can be stronger and steadier, the distances between harbours much larger, and the weather can change quickly. You might be on deck for hours rather than the short bursts of activity typical in dinghy sailing on the Thames.

For coastal sailing, clothing becomes much more about layering and protection from spray and wind. Offshore-style waterproof jacket and salopettes suddenly make sense, along with thermal layers, proper deck shoes, and perhaps a warmer hat for early mornings. Even in the Mediterranean in April, the wind over the water can make things feel surprisingly chilly.

What I’m discovering is that sailing kit isn’t really about buying everything at once. It’s about buying the right gear for the sailing you actually do. Start with the basics for your local waters, then gradually add specialist equipment as your sailing adventures expand.

Of course, sailors have a well-known solution to this problem:
any excuse to buy more sailing kit!

So what should I buy for the Adriatic in Early Spring? I asked at the club and these are the answers and recommendations I got.

For sailing the Adriatic in April, you want something in the “coastal/offshore” category, not just a light inshore jacket. Even in the Mediterranean the wind over the water can feel surprisingly cold, and spray on a yacht can soak ordinary waterproofs very quickly.

Here are three excellent jackets sailors commonly use for coastal cruising, including RYA courses and flotilla sailing. Prices correct as of 9th March 2026

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1️⃣ Gill OS2 Offshore Jacket (Excellent all-round choice)

Gill Men's OS2 Offshore Jacket

£249.95

•

Marine Super Store + others

Gill Men's OS2 Offshore Jacket

£221.99

•

Marine Supplies Direct + others

Gill OS2 Men's Offshore Sailing Jacket 2026

£264.95

•

Pirates Cave Chandlery

Why sailors like it

• Designed specifically for offshore and coastal sailing

• Very good waterproof and breathable fabric

• High fleece-lined collar to protect from spray

• Adjustable storm hood and double cuffs

• Reflective panels for safety

The OS2 is widely regarded as a “sweet spot” jacket for cruising sailors—serious weather protection without the extreme price of full ocean-racing gear. It’s often recommended as a go-to coastal jacket.

💰 Typical price: £220–£260

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2️⃣ Helly Hansen Skagen Offshore Jacket (Very popular for yacht courses)

Helly Hansen Men's Skagen Offshore Sailing Jacket

£259.95

•

Marine Super Store + others

Helly Hansen Men's Skagen Offshore Sailing Jacket

£259.95

•

Marine Super Store + others

Helly Hansen Men’s Skagen Sailing Jacket

£375.00

•

Morgan Marine

Why it’s excellent

• Helly Tech waterproof breathable fabric

• Double cuffs to stop water running down sleeves

• Very protective hood and high collar

• Comfortable and durable

Many sailors like Helly Hansen gear because it’s hard-wearing and comfortable on longer passages.

💰 Typical price: £250–£300

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3️⃣ Musto BR2 Offshore Jacket (Premium mid-range option)

Musto Men's BR2 Offshore 2.0 Jacket

£299.95

•

Hollands Country Clothing + others

Musto BR2 Offshore Jacket 2.0 Mens

£227.79

•

Varuste.net

Musto Men's BR2 Offshore Jacket 2.0

£260.00

•

Marine Supplies Direct

Why Musto is famous

• Excellent waterproof rating

• Double storm flap and high collar

• Very durable construction

• Often used by serious cruisers

Musto jackets are among the best-known sailing waterproofs and offer strong protection for coastal sailing with good freedom of movement.

💰 Typical price: £260–£320

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You don’t need full ocean-racing gear, but you do want proper sailing waterproofs rather than a hiking jacket.

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One tip many first-time yacht sailors miss

Bring layers under the jacket:

• merino or thermal base layer

• fleece mid-layer

• sailing jacket outer layer

April evenings on deck can feel surprisingly chilly.

In the next few days you will see the choice I made.

 Last Minute Checks on the Boat Before Your First Spring Sail

After a long winter ashore, the first sail of spring is always exciting. The sun appears, the wind looks promising, and suddenly the boat park comes alive again. But before rushing down the slipway with enthusiasm and optimism, it is worth taking a few minutes to give the boat a proper once-over.

Winter has a habit of quietly damaging things. Ropes stiffen, fittings loosen, sails develop mysterious creases, and spiders move in as if they’ve signed a long-term lease on your cockpit.

What applies to small dinghies also applies to larger boats.

1. Check the Hull and Foils

Start with the basics. Walk around the hull and look for any cracks, dents, or damage that may have appeared over winter. Even small problems can become large ones once the boat is bouncing over spring waves.

Check:

• The rudder and tiller fittings

• The centreboard or daggerboard for smooth movement

• Drain bungs (you would be surprised how many people forget these!)

If the centreboard refuses to move, it usually means either sand, mud, or last autumn’s river weed has set like concrete.

2. Inspect All the Running Rigging

Next come the ropes. Lines that looked perfectly healthy in October can look rather tired by March.

Pay particular attention to:

• Halyards

• Sheets

• Downhaul / Cunningham

• Outhaul

• Any control lines

Look for fraying, stiffness, or knots that have mysteriously tightened themselves over winter. If a rope looks suspicious, replace it now rather than discovering its weakness halfway up the river.

3. Check the Standing Rigging

The mast and its supports deserve a careful inspection.

Look for:

• Loose shroud pins

• Bent split rings

• Corrosion around fittings

• Cracks around mast steps or chain plates

A five-second check on shore can prevent a very dramatic dismasting later.

4. Examine the Sails

Unroll the sails and check them carefully.

Look for:

• Tears or worn stitching

• Battens that have disappeared (they sometimes do)

• Stiff bolt ropes or luff sleeves

Spring breezes can be surprisingly fresh, so it’s best to know the sails are ready before hoisting them.

5. Safety Equipment

Before launching, make sure the essential safety items are actually in the boat.

This includes:

• Buoyancy aids

• Bailer or pump

• Painter line

• Paddle

• Righting line if fitted

You will only notice a missing bailer after the first enthusiastic wave lands in the cockpit.

6. Electronics and Extras

If you use gadgets—action cameras, GPS units, or mast-top wind sensors—check batteries and mounts.

Spring is also when many sailors suddenly discover that their camera batteries are still sitting on charge at home.

The Final Check

Finally, stand back and ask yourself one simple question:

“If something fails today, what is most likely to break?”

If the answer is anything structural, fix it now.

Because the golden rule of sailing preparation is simple:

Problems found in the boat park are minor.
Problems discovered halfway up the river are adventures.

 

Sailing Term of the Week: The Transom

If you stand behind almost any boat, from a tiny dinghy to a large yacht, you’ll probably be looking straight at the transom.

In simple terms, the transom is the flat (or sometimes slightly curved) surface that forms the very back of the boat. On many dinghies it’s the vertical panel where the rudder is attached and where the boat effectively ends.

You can explore the technical definition here:
https://pmrsailing.uk/sailing-lessons/sailing-terms-list/Transom.html

Why the Transom Matters

The transom might look like just another bit of boat, but it actually plays several important roles.

First, it’s usually where the rudder fittings (gudgeons and pintles) are mounted. Without the transom, the rudder would have nowhere sensible to attach.

Second, the shape of the transom affects how the boat moves through the water. Modern racing dinghies often have wide, flat transoms which allow them to plane more easily when sailing fast.

Third, it’s where a lot of practical things happen. On some boats you’ll find:

• The outboard motor mount

• Drain bungs

• Towing eyes

• The occasional exhausted crew member hanging over it after an enthusiastic gybe.

Open vs Closed Transoms

Older boats often had closed transoms – a solid back panel that kept water out.

Many modern dinghies have open transoms or cut-aways. These allow water to drain quickly if the boat gets swamped or after a capsize.

This is particularly useful for training boats and racing dinghies where getting rid of water quickly can make the difference between sailing away confidently or sitting there with a floating swimming pool in the cockpit.

Transoms and River Sailing

On rivers like the Thames, the transom also tells you quite a lot about the design philosophy of the boat.

Traditional Thames racing boats such as A-Raters and B-Raters have elegant narrow sterns with beautifully shaped transoms designed to reduce drag.

Modern training dinghies like our RS Toura have broader sterns and wider transoms, helping stability and making it easier for beginners learning the ropes.

Both designs work brilliantly — they’re simply optimised for different kinds of sailing.

A Final Thought

When you’re learning to sail, you quickly discover that every part of the boat has a name. At first it can feel like learning a new language.

But once you know the basic parts — bow, stern, mast, boom, rudder and transom — everything starts to make sense.

And the next time someone shouts from another boat:

“Watch your transom!”

You’ll at least know which bit of the boat they’re talking about.

 

Knot of the Week: The Bowline – The King of Knots

If there is one knot every sailor should know, it is the bowline. It is often called “the king of knots”, and for good reason. Once tied, it forms a strong fixed loop that will not slip or tighten under load, yet it can still be untied easily afterwards — even after taking a heavy strain.

That makes the bowline incredibly useful on a sailing boat. Whether you are attaching a rope to a ring, forming a loop around a post, or securing a line quickly, the bowline is reliable, simple, and trusted by sailors for centuries.

When learning to sail at the Upper Thames Sailing Club, this is one of the knots that quickly becomes second nature. In fact, after tying it a few dozen times while rigging boats or securing lines, your hands almost begin to tie it automatically.

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How to Tie a Bowline

Sailors traditionally remember the steps using a little story:

“The rabbit comes out of the hole, runs around the tree, and goes back down the hole.”

Make a small loop in the rope (this is the “rabbit hole”).

Pass the working end up through the loop.

Take it around the standing part of the rope (the “tree”).

Pass it back down through the loop.

Pull everything tight.

The result is a secure loop that will not tighten when the rope is pulled.

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Why Sailors Love the Bowline

The bowline has several properties that make it ideal for sailing:

• Creates a fixed loop that does not slip

• Strong and reliable under load

• Easy to untie after being heavily loaded

• Quick to tie once practiced

These qualities explain why the bowline appears everywhere in sailing — from dinghies to tall ships.

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Common Uses on a Sailing Boat

You will often see a bowline used to:

• Tie a mooring line to a ring or post

• Attach a sheet to a sail

• Create a temporary loop in a rope

• Secure a boat to a pontoon or jetty

On small dinghies, it is often used when attaching ropes that need a permanent loop.

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A Tip From the River Thames

When sailing on a river such as the Thames, things often need to happen quickly — especially when approaching a jetty or mooring in a current. Having a bowline already tied in the end of a rope makes it very easy to drop the loop over a post or cleat in seconds.

It is one of those small sailing skills that quietly makes life on the water much easier.

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Final Thought

Many sailors say:

“If you don’t know how to tie a knot, tie a lot.”

And the bowline is a perfect place to start.

Tie it a few dozen times while watching television, and before long it will become second nature — just like it does for sailors everywhere.

Why Thames A-Raters are the fastest dinghies on the River Thames (and why I want one)

 

Why Thames A-Raters are the fastest dinghies on the River Thames (and why I want one)

If you’ve ever been bimbling along on the Thames, feeling rather pleased with yourself because the boat is upright and nobody has fallen out, and then a Thames A-Rater goes past… you’ll know the sensation.

It’s a bit like being overtaken by a grand piano on rollerskates.

So what is an A-Rater, why are they so ridiculously quick on a river?

1) The “rule” that accidentally created a monster

A-Raters come from an old “rating rule” approach to racing, where the boat’s rating was basically calculated from waterline length and sail area—and that was largely it. Designers were given loads of freedom everywhere else.

Freedom + competitive sailors + the Thames = boats that are optimised like racing greyhounds.

Modern class rules still bake in the key performance ingredients: a maximum sail area (excluding spinnaker) of 350 sq ft, and on the Thames no spinnaker—because the river is narrow, twisty, and lined with things that enjoy eating rigs.
And the class parameters often quoted include a maximum mast height around 43 ft and a minimum weight around 750 lb (340 kg).

Translation: big rig, long boat, light enough to fly, built to go fast in the conditions we actually sail in.

2) Long waterline = fast “easy speed”

Even before the planing party starts, length matters. A longer waterline tends to mean a higher potential hull speed (and generally better speed through lulls). On the river, where you’re constantly dealing with shifting pressure, headers, and the occasional wind that appears to be coming from the direction of Slough, that “easy speed” is gold.

A-Raters are commonly described as around 27 ft long with towering rigs.
So while the rest of us are busy negotiating with physics, the A-Rater is already halfway to the next bend looking smug.

3) Sail area that looks slightly illegal (but isn’t)

Put simply: they carry a lot of sail for their weight.
That means acceleration—proper, shove-you-in-the-back acceleration.

On a river, acceleration matters more than people think, because you’re constantly changing mode:

• accelerating out of a tack

• punching through a lull

• dodging a hole behind trees

• then accelerating again because the wind has decided to move house

A-Raters are basically built for that stop-start, bendy-river reality.

4) Hull shape made for river sailing (and occasional flight)

These boats have a specialist Thames heritage and a design lineage tied to the conditions at places like Thames Sailing Club and Upper Thames.
They’re often described as scow-hulled with a metal centreplate, and famously quick—able to plane readily, but also technically demanding when it’s breezy.

That “scow + big rig” combination is a lovely cheat code:

• powerful in light to medium airs

• stable enough to carry that sail plan

• and when the breeze is on, they can pick up and go properly fast

5) The Thames factor: narrow, shifty, and full of surprises

If you designed a boat purely for steady sea breeze and open water, it might be brilliant… somewhere else.

But on the Thames:

• the wind bends around trees, houses, bridges, and moored boats

• the course can be tight, tactical, and full of rapid manoeuvres

• and you need boats that can keep moving through chaos

A-Raters were born in exactly this environment and refined over generations. That’s why they look like they belong in a sepia photograph… right up until they light up and leave everything else looking parked.

6) Why I want one (the honest bit)

There are sensible reasons, and there are the real reasons.

Sensible reasons:

• They’re a living piece of Thames sailing history (and still actively raced).

• They are, genuinely, among the most exciting boats you’ll see on the river—fast, elegant, and technical.

• There’s a proper community around them, with sailing at places close to me (including Upper Thames Sailing Club).

Real reasons:

• They look magnificent. Not “nice boat” magnificent. More “Victorian engineering meets modern adrenaline problem” magnificent.

• I like learning things that are hard. And A-Raters are described as technically highly challenging when it’s above moderate wind.

• Deep down, I want to experience that moment when you get it right—trim set, plate set, balance right—and the boat just… releases and goes.

Also, let’s be honest: if you’ve spent any time at Upper Thames watching A-Raters, at some point you start thinking:
“I could do that.”
This is the exact same thought process that leads people to buy paddleboards, telescopes, and bread makers.

7) The “small print” (aka: why this is a long-term dream)

A-Raters are not “buy one and go for a casual potter” boats. They’re typically sailed with a crew of three, and they demand teamwork and practice.
They also have serious rigs, serious loads, and serious consequences if you treat them casually.

So yes, I want one. But I also want to earn one:

• more river racing experience

• more boat handling time in breeze

• more time understanding what makes fast boats fast (and what makes them suddenly not)

In other words: I’m not in a rush. I’m just… planning. Constantly. Loudly. In public.

8) If you want to fall down the A-Rater rabbit hole

I’ve gathered more background, history, and boat info here:https://pmrsailing.uk/Raters/Rater-Boat-Info.html
And if you want the broader class/association side (including “try a rater” days), the Thames A-Rater Association is the place to start or come to the Upper Thames Open Days where you can go out in a Rater and see for yourself.

AYRS: Today’s “experimental” boats… tomorrow’s standard kit

One of the original Experimental boats - Vagabond, first with a trapeeze.

AYRS: Today’s “experimental” boats… tomorrow’s standard kit

If you ever want proof that sailing’s future is built by people who refuse to leave “well enough alone”, allow me to introduce the Amateur Yacht Research Society (AYRS) — proudly flying the flag for practical tinkering and slightly bonkers ideas that (annoyingly) keep turning out to be right. Their website strapline is basically “where the ideas are”, which is both inspiring and faintly dangerous to anyone who owns a toolbox and has access to epoxy.

What I love is the AYRS attitude: experimental doesn’t mean “daft”. It means testable. Measurable. Arguable over a cup of tea (or something stronger) with diagrams on the back of an envelope. And history keeps repeating itself: the things that look odd at first—new hull shapes, foils, rigs, control systems—have a habit of turning up a few years later as “best practice”… and then ten minutes after that as “class rules”. (If you listen carefully, you can hear the sound of older sailors muttering, “I told you so,” across the boat park.)

The AYRS homepage has a glorious snapshot from Weymouth Speed Week 2022, where the “boats” were back—real boats, not just boards and wings—and the line-up reads like a sci-fi casting call. SailRocket on the hardstanding, Icarus (James Grogono’s pioneering foiling catamaran) back on the water and sailing nicely on her foils, plus Kyle Stoneham’s Vampire Project boat described as very fast—even beating the board sailors on a light-wind day. And then there’s “Vari-Scari”, because of course there is.

Here’s the bit that matters for the rest of us mere mortals pottering about on rivers and club waters: the trickle-down is real. Today’s speed-week oddity becomes tomorrow’s “why wouldn’t you?” fitting. Hydrofoils? Once experimental, now mainstream in whole corners of the sport. Rigs and sail aero? The sort of thing you’d once expect from an America’s Cup shed… now discussed in ordinary sailing circles with alarming confidence. That’s what AYRS does well: it gathers the experiments, publishes the thinking, and makes it easier for good ideas to spread without everyone having to reinvent the same wheel (or foil) from scratch.

If you fancy a deep dive, AYRS also has a huge back-catalogue of downloadable booklets covering things like catamarans, hydrofoils, sails & aerofoils, dinghy design, sailboat testing, yacht wind tunnels, and more—proper rabbit-hole material for anyone who enjoys going to bed thinking about lift/drag ratios and waking up wondering if their boat could benefit from “just one small modification”. (Famous last words.)

So yes: today’s experimental boats really can be the standard for tomorrow’s boats. And whether you’re racing, cruising, or learning on the Thames like me, it’s a reassuring thought: sailing doesn’t stand still—it simply gets tested, argued about, improved, and then quietly copied. If you want a peek at what might be coming next, AYRS is a very good place to start. 

Where to sail in the early spring Rivers, sea or lakes.

 Early spring sailing is brilliant… and slightly masochistic. The winds can be punchy, the sunshine is optimistic rather than reliable, and the water is often at its coldest—which is why “I’ll just hop in and sort it out” is a terrible life choice. The RYA notes cold water shock is a serious risk in water below about 15°C, and spring water temps are often at their lowest.

Rivers (good if you want shelter and lots of “practice”)

Best for: dinghies and small boats, short sessions, skills (tacking, river tactics, boat handling).
Why spring works: the banks take the edge off the wind and you can sail even when the sea is a bit grim.

But… spring rivers can be lively. On the Thames, stream conditions can change quickly, and the Environment Agency uses warning boards advising unpowered boats not to navigate in stronger flows—plus weirs/sluices are hazardous.
So rivers are great when conditions are normal, and “character building” when the stream is up.

Spring river win: sheltered, familiar waters, quick bail-out options (tea in the clubhouse).
Spring river risk: strong stream, debris, cold water, and the temptation to cut corners near weirs (don’t).

Sea (best for big skies… pick sheltered water first)

Best for: keelboats/yachts, more confident dinghy sailors, anyone wanting longer passages.
In early spring, the smart move is sheltered coastal sailing: harbours, estuaries, and inshore waters where you can tuck in if it turns spicy.

Examples that suit early season “let’s ease back in” sailing:

• Chichester Harbour: naturally sheltered, plenty of water to explore, but it’s tidal—so passage planning matters.

• Other rivers/estuaries can be superb early season cruising grounds because they’re more protected than open sea coasts.

Spring sea win: consistent wind, proper sailing miles, glorious light for photos.
Spring sea risk: colder water, bigger consequences, tides/currents, and the “one more reach” that becomes a 3-hour epic.

Lakes & reservoirs (the early-season sweet spot for clubs and training)

Best for: club sailing, racing, training sessions, family sailing, predictable logistics.
This is where a lot of UK sailing really gets going in spring—clubs run early-season open meetings and you’ve got rescue cover, hot showers, and a café that understands you.

Think Grafham Water / Rutland Water / similar big reservoirs: plenty of room, organised sailing, and you’re not fighting a tide. (You may still fight the wind and your own rigging decisions.)

Spring lake win: controlled environment, safety boat cover, easy “one more lap”.
Spring lake risk: gusts funneling across open water, and water that is still absolutely freezing.

Quick rule-of-thumb for early spring

• Newer sailor / rusty skills? → Lake/reservoir first, river second, sea once you’ve got your systems back.

• Confident crew + good kit + good forecast? → Sheltered sea/estuary is a joy.

• If the river’s on strong stream boards → choose a lake (or the pub, which is also sheltered).

Kit & safety (the boring bit that keeps you alive)

• Dress for immersion (cold water shock is the early danger, not “getting a bit chilly later”).

• Check local river condition boards / notices if you’re on the Thames system.

• Tell someone your plan, keep sessions shorter, and keep the “capsize plan” simple.