Learning to Splice – Turning Rope into Something Useful

(and why every sailor should give it a go)

There’s something deeply satisfying about splicing. Not just because it looks properly nautical, but because it turns an ordinary bit of rope into something stronger, neater, and more reliable than a knot ever could be.

As someone learning to sail later in life, splicing felt like one of those “real sailor” skills—right up there with judging a gust by the ripples on the water, or stopping the boat exactly where you meant to (occasionally by accident).

What is splicing?

Splicing is the art of interweaving the strands of a rope to form a permanent loop, join two ropes together, or finish an end neatly so it doesn’t unravel.
Unlike knots:

• it retains more of the rope’s strength

• it won’t shake loose

• and it looks beautifully tidy

On rivers like the Thames, where we’re constantly tying up, towing, mooring, and recovering boats, a good splice earns its keep very quickly.

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The first splice most sailors learn: the eye splice

An eye splice creates a fixed loop in the end of a rope. Perfect for:

• painters

• mooring lines

• attaching to cleats, rings, or carabiners

In traditional three-strand rope, the process is wonderfully logical:

1. Unlay the three strands

2. Form the size of loop you want

3. Tuck each strand over and under in turn

4. Repeat… patiently… several times

The first attempt usually looks like a lumpy snake that’s swallowed a tennis ball. The second is better. By the third, you start thinking:

“Ah. I see why sailors like this.”

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Modern ropes: still spliceable, just trickier

Most dinghy sheets and control lines are now braided ropes, not traditional three-strand.
They can be spliced—but:

• they need a fid (or improvisation involving electrical tape and optimism)

• they require following steps exactly

• and they punish impatience

That said, a neat splice in modern rope is immensely satisfying—and far slimmer than tying knots that catch on everything at exactly the wrong moment.

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Why bother, when knots are quicker?

Fair question. Knots are brilliant—and you absolutely need them.
But splices:

• don’t work loose

• don’t weaken the rope as much

• run smoothly through blocks

• and quietly say “someone here knows what they’re doing”

Also, there’s a lovely winter-evening appeal to splicing:
a bit of rope, a cup of tea, and the slow joy of making something by hand.

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Learning later? Perfect.

One of the joys of learning to sail at 65+ is that there’s no rush. Splicing rewards:

• patience

• method

• and the willingness to redo it when it goes wrong

Which it will. Several times. That’s fine. Even the bad ones teach you something.

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Final thought

Splicing isn’t just a technical skill—it’s a small connection to centuries of sailors who made, fixed, and trusted their own gear. And the first time you moor up using a line you spliced yourself… that’s a quiet little win worth enjoying

Nearly all the boats I see have a Bermuda rig… But is it really the best choice for river sailing?

 

Nearly all the boats I see have a Bermuda rig…

But is it really the best choice for river sailing?

Walk along almost any dinghy park and you’ll see the same silhouette everywhere: a tall mast, a triangular mainsail, maybe a jib in front. The Bermuda rig has become the default setting for modern sailing.

But rivers aren’t the open sea. They’re narrow, bendy, tree-lined, bridge-infested, and full of wind that behaves… creatively. So it’s worth asking the awkward question:

Is the Bermuda rig actually ideal for river sailing?

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Why the Bermuda rig took over

To be fair, it didn’t win by accident.

Pros

• Efficient to windward (in steady airflow)

• Simple controls and familiar handling

• Lightweight spars and easy sail handling

• Works brilliantly on open water and race courses

For lakes, estuaries, and the sea, it’s hard to argue against.

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Where rivers fight back

On rivers like the Thames, the wind rarely plays nicely.

River realities

• Wind bends around trees and buildings

• Sudden shifts of 30–90° are normal

• Gusts arrive vertically, not horizontally

• Long lulls followed by savage puffs

Here’s the problem:
A tall, high-aspect Bermuda sail depends on clean airflow. When the wind is dirty, broken, or coming from unexpected angles, that lovely triangular sail spends a lot of time stalled.

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What older rigs did better

Before the Bermuda rig became dominant, river sailors knew their environment well.

Gaff and other low-aspect rigs

• More sail area lower down, where river wind often lives

• Better power at low speeds

• More forgiving when the wind shifts suddenly

• Often easier to keep moving through tacks in fluky air

They’re not as “efficient” on paper — but rivers aren’t paper.

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So why don’t we see them now?

A few very practical reasons:

• Racing rules and class designs favour Bermuda rigs

• Modern materials made tall rigs easier and cheaper

• Training pathways all assume Bermuda rigs

• Fewer people now grow up sailing rivers exclusively

Efficiency won. Versatility quietly lost.

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The real answer (as usual)

The Bermuda rig isn’t wrong for river sailing — far from it.
But it is a compromise, and not always the best one.

For river sailors, success often comes not from the rig itself, but from:

• Excellent sail trim

• Fast reactions to shifts

• Keeping momentum at all costs

• Knowing when not to pinch

And occasionally muttering,

“This would be easier with a gaff…”

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Final thought

If you only ever sailed rivers, you might design something very different from the boats we mostly sail today.

So next time you’re parked head-to-wind under a tree while someone else ghosts past…
It might not be your sailing.
It might be 150 years of rig fashion.

 The Essential Bit of Dinghy Sailing Kit You Probably Don’t Have (But Really Should)

When people think about essential dinghy sailing kit, the list is usually predictable:

• Buoyancy aid ✅

• Wetsuit or spray top ✅

• Suitable footwear ✅

All vital. All sensible. All very obvious.

But there’s one bit of kit that’s absolutely essential for dinghy sailing — especially on rivers — and yet many sailors don’t carry it at all.

👉 Situational awareness

No, it’s not something you can buy in a chandlery.
And no, it doesn’t come in a waterproof bag.

But it might be the most important thing you take afloat.

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🌬️ What Do We Mean by “Situational Awareness”?

Situational awareness is your ability to constantly ask (and answer):

• What is the wind doing right now?

• What is the river or tide doing?

• What are other boats about to do?

• Where can I escape to if this goes wrong?

• What changes in the next 30 seconds, not the next 30 minutes?

It’s the difference between reacting and anticipating.

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🚤 Why Dinghy Sailors Lose It (Especially Beginners)

Most of us lose situational awareness because we’re busy:

• Staring at the sails

• Fighting the tiller

• Thinking about the last mistake

• Trying not to hit the bank / buoy / committee boat / swan

Cognitive overload is real — particularly when learning.

And the problem is:

The boat doesn’t wait for you to catch up.

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🌊 Why It Matters Even More on a River

On rivers like the Thames, everything is compressed:

• Wind shifts constantly

• Gusts are funnelled by trees and buildings

• The stream never switches off

• Space is limited

• Decisions have consequences very quickly

A moment of inattention can mean:

• Missing a layline

• Being swept sideways into trouble

• Ending up head-to-wind with no escape

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🧠 How to “Carry” This Bit of Kit

The good news?
You can train situational awareness just like a physical skill.

Try this on every sail:

• Look upwind every 30 seconds

• Look behind you every minute

• Identify two escape options at all times

• Say (out loud if needed): “If the wind shifts now, what happens?”

It feels artificial at first — then it becomes automatic.

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🪢 The Quiet Truth About Experience

Experienced sailors don’t necessarily have better reactions.

They just:

• Spot problems earlier

• Make smaller corrections

• Avoid situations before they become exciting

That’s not luck.
That’s situational awareness.

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✅ Final Thought

You can buy better sails.
You can buy a faster boat.
You can buy all the latest kit.

But the most essential bit of dinghy sailing equipment?

You have to practise carrying it.

And once you do — sailing gets calmer, safer, and much more enjoyable.

 The Dinghy Show Is Coming… Do You Really Need a New Boat?

With the RYA Dinghy Show fast approaching and the new sailing season just around the corner, this is the point in the year when sailors start asking that question:

“Is this the season I finally upgrade?”

The Dinghy Show is dangerous territory. Not because of heavy weather or tricky tides – but because it’s full of beautiful boats, clever gadgets, pristine sails, and people who look impossibly competent while holding carbon fibre things.

And suddenly, your perfectly serviceable boat at the club starts to look… tired.

What’s New This Season?

Every year brings refinements rather than revolutions:

• Lighter hulls and smarter layouts

• Cleaner control systems and neater decks

• Foils, fittings and sails that promise just a bit more speed

• Electronics creeping ever closer to the dinghy sailor

None of this is bad. Some of it is genuinely brilliant. But most of it sits firmly in the “nice to have” category rather than “game-changer”.

The More Important Question: What Do You Need?

Before falling in love with a new hull shape or a glossy brochure, it’s worth asking:

• What kind of sailing do I actually do?

• River or open water?

• Training, cruising, club racing, or just staying upright?

• Who crews with me – and are we comfortable?

For many sailors, especially those learning or returning to the sport, the biggest gains don’t come from new boats at all. They come from:

• Better sail handling

• Improved balance and positioning

• Understanding wind shifts and river effects

• Confidence gained through time on the water

None of these are available at the chandlery stand – sadly.

When a New Boat Does Make Sense

Of course, sometimes a change really is justified:

• You’ve outgrown your current boat (literally or skill-wise)

• Your sailing has shifted direction

• You want something easier to rig, launch, or sail single-handed

• Your current boat is limiting enjoyment, not performance

In those cases, the Dinghy Show is invaluable – because you can sit in boats, ask awkward questions, and compare reality with marketing.

A Gentle Warning…

If you leave the Dinghy Show convinced that a new boat will magically fix tacks, gybes, starts, and confidence – it probably won’t.

But if you leave with:

• A clearer idea of what suits your sailing

• One or two smart upgrades

• Renewed enthusiasm for the season ahead

Then it’s done its job perfectly.

The new season is coming. The boats will be rigged. The river (eventually) will calm down.

Whether you turn up with a brand-new boat or the same one as last year – it’s the sailing that matters.

 

The Third Crew Member in an A-Rater: The Mid Hand Who Makes It All Work

When people talk about an A-Rater, they usually focus on the helm’s finesse or the jib hand’s lightning-fast reactions. But there’s a third crew member  the mid hand, often quieter, sometimes overlooked, and absolutely vital to the boat’s performance.

They are the human ballast and the master of maintaining the mainsail shape— the living, breathing counterweight that keeps several square metres of sail power pointing forwards rather than sideways.

And in an A-Rater, that job is not optional.

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Why an A-Rater Needs a Third Crew Member

A-Raters are:

• Long

• Light

• Extremely powerful for their weight

They were designed for the Thames, where light winds, gusts from trees, and shifty conditions are the norm. The rig is generous, the hull is narrow, and the margins between “flying” and “falling over” are… slim.

That’s where the mid hand comes in.

Without effective ballast:

• The boat heels too far

• The foils lose efficiency

• The helm fights weather helm

• Speed vanishes

• Control becomes guesswork

The third crew member is what turns raw sail power into controlled forward motion.

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Tensioning the Runners

Keeping the Mast Straight Through Tacks and Gybes

On a Thames A-Rater, the mast doesn’t just stand there. It’s alive. It bends, twists, and reacts instantly to changes in load. And one of the most important jobs in the boat—often happening quietly and very quickly—is tensioning the runners to keep that mast straight and the sails working as designed.

Get it right, and the boat accelerates smoothly out of a tack or gybe.
Get it wrong, and the sail shape collapses, power leaks away, and the helm starts fighting the boat.

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Why Runners Matter So Much on an A-Rater

A-Raters carry:

• Tall, lightly supported masts

• Powerful mainsails

• Large overlapping jibs

Unlike boats with swept-back shrouds doing most of the work, an A-Rater relies heavily on running backstays (runners) to control mast bend and forestay tension.

Without the correct runner tension:

• The mast bends off to leeward

• Forestay tension drops

• The jib becomes baggy

• The mainsail loses its designed shape

In short: speed disappears.

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The Goal: A Straight Mast at the Right Moment

The key phrase here is “at the right moment.”

You don’t want maximum tension all the time. You want:

• Enough tension to support the mast

• Enough flexibility to allow sail power

• Smooth transitions during manoeuvres

The runner system is about control, not brute force.

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Runners During a Tack: A Coordinated Dance

A tack is the moment when runner work really earns its keep.

Typical sequence:

1. Old windward runner stays on as the boat turns

2. Mast remains supported while the jib unloads

3. As the bow comes through the wind, the new runner is prepared

4. Once the sail fills on the new tack, the new windward runner is tensioned

5. The old runner is then eased cleanly

Too early:

• Mast over-bends

• Power vanishes mid-tack

Too late:

• Mast sags to leeward

• Forestay goes soft

• Jib shape turns into a laundry bag

Timing matters more than strength.

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Runners During a Gybe: Controlled, Not Casual

Gybes can look gentler—but the loads can be savage.

Downwind:

• Apparent wind is lower

• But boom movement is large

• Shock loads are real

During a gybe:

• The active runner must be eased progressively

• The new runner should be taken up early

• Mast support must be continuous as the boom crosses

A sloppy runner change can:

• Let the mast flick sideways

• Distort sail shape instantly

• Shock-load fittings and rigging

Good crews make it look boring. That’s the sign it’s being done properly.

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Sail Shape Is the Payoff

Why all this effort?

Because correct runner tension:

• Keeps the forestay firm → jib sets flatter and points higher

• Controls mast bend → mainsail depth stays where the sailmaker intended

• Maintains balance → lighter helm, less drag

• Preserves momentum → especially vital on rivers

On the Thames, where acceleration out of manoeuvres matters more than raw top speed, this is huge.

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Who’s Responsible?

Runner control usually sits with:

• Or the mid hand acting as ballast and rig controller

It’s a role that demands:

• Anticipation

• Feel

• Communication with the helm

Often, the best runner work happens without a word being spoken.

Positioning: Inches Matter

The ballast crew normally sits low and central, but never passively.

Their position constantly changes:

• Upwind: slightly to windward, maximising righting moment

• Reaching: adjusting fore-and-aft trim to keep the hull free

• Downwind: often moving forward to stop the stern dragging

In an A-Rater, moving your backside six inches can change:

• Helm balance

• Rudder drag

• Whether the boat accelerates… or sulks

This isn’t dead weight. It’s dynamic trim control.

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Stability Is Speed

Flat boats are fast boats — especially on a river.

By keeping the boat level, the ballast crew:

• Keeps the centreboard working efficiently

• Reduces leeway

• Allows the helm to steer delicately instead of defensively

• Lets the jib hand keep the sail drawing instead of depowering

In gusty Thames conditions, the ballast crew often reacts before the helm speaks:

• Gust hits → move out

• Lull arrives → ease back in

That anticipation is gold dust.

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Communication Without Words

In a well-sailed A-Rater:

• The helm feels trim changes

• The jib hand sees the sail response

• The mid hand moves instinctively and tensions the sails

There doesn’t need to be constant shouting. A subtle shift of weight can be:

• A signal that pressure is building

• A cue that a tack is imminent

• A warning that the boat is about to load up

It’s sailing as choreography, not committee meeting.

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Physical, Yes — But Also Strategic

Yes, the role can be tiring. Hiking for long beats on the Thames is no joke.

But the ballast crew also:

• Watches wind lines on the water

• Spots gusts rolling down from the banks

• Feels changes in heel before instruments (or humans) notice

• Acts as an early-warning system

In many ways, they are the boat’s balance sensor.

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The Unsung Hero of the Crew

The helm gets the glory.
The jib hand gets the praise.

The mid hand gets… sore legs and quiet satisfaction knowing that they got the boat through every tack and gybe.

But without them:

• The boat won’t point

• The boat won’t accelerate

• The boat won’t forgive mistakes

In an A-Rater, the third crew member doesn’t just sit there.

They make the boat sailable.

 (Going through all the photographs and videos, it took me ages to find a photo where I wasn't doing anything with the crew.)

The Role of the Crew Member in a Two-Handed Dinghy

(Why the person not holding the tiller is doing far more than you think)

When people first step into a two-handed dinghy, there’s a common assumption:

“The helm does the sailing… the crew just sits there.”

Nothing could be further from the truth.

In reality, a good crew member is half the brain, half the engine, and most of the balance system of a two-handed dinghy. On a river like the Thames, where wind shifts, bends, and obstructions are constant, the crew’s role becomes even more important.

1. Weight and Balance – The Invisible Controls

The crew’s body weight is one of the most powerful controls on the boat.

• Moving in and out controls heel

• Moving forwards and aft affects trim and speed

• Hiking keeps the sails driving rather than spilling wind

On a river, where gusts arrive sideways off trees and buildings, the crew often reacts before the helm even thinks about it.

If the helm steers the boat, the crew keeps it sailing flat, fast, and upright.

2. Sail Handling – Especially the Jib

The crew usually controls the jib, and that makes them critical during:

• Tacks – easing at the right moment, trimming in smoothly

• Gybing – keeping things calm, controlled, and tangle-free

• Upwind work – adjusting sheet tension for changing wind

Pull too early and you steer the boat the wrong way.
Pull too late and you lose momentum.

Good jib work feels invisible. Bad jib work is instantly obvious.

3. Communication – Talking the Boat Around the River

A two-handed dinghy works best when it sounds like a quiet conversation, not a debate.

The crew often has:

• The better view of traffic, buoys, and riverbanks

• Time to watch gusts coming down the water

• Capacity to call “gust coming”, “ready about”, or “hold it”

On a river, anticipation matters more than reaction – and the crew is usually best placed to spot what’s coming next.

4. Boat Handling Ashore and Afloat

Crew work doesn’t stop when the boat stops sailing.

Launching, landing, holding the boat head-to-wind, stepping masts, sorting sheets, and keeping things tidy all fall naturally into the crew role. A calm, organised crew makes everything else easier – especially at busy slipways.

5. The Confidence Builder

For many new sailors, crewing is the perfect way to learn:

• You feel how the boat responds

• You learn sail shapes and wind awareness

• You build confidence before taking the helm

In fact, many excellent helms started out as thoughtful, observant crew members.

Final Thought

In a two-handed dinghy, the helm may hold the tiller – but the crew makes the boat work.

Get the crew role right, and sailing becomes smoother, faster, and far more enjoyable. Get it wrong, and no amount of steering will save you.

 

Getting the Seating Position Right in a Sailing Dinghy

Small movements. Big gains.

One of the first things you discover when learning to sail a dinghy is that where you sit matters just as much as what you do with the sails. Move your weight a few inches forward or aft, or lean a little too far inboard, and the boat’s behaviour changes instantly.

This isn’t about comfort.
It’s about balance, control, and performance.

Why seating position matters

A sailing dinghy is light, responsive, and very honest. It tells you immediately when something isn’t quite right:

• Sitting too far aft drags the transom, slows the boat, and makes steering heavy

• Sitting too far forward buries the bow and increases drag

• Sitting too far inboard lets the boat heel excessively

• Sitting too far outboard in light winds stops the sails working efficiently

Your body is not just along for the ride — you are part of the boat’s control system.

Fore and aft balance – trim is everything

Think of the dinghy as a see-saw:

• In light winds, sit slightly forward to reduce transom drag

• In moderate winds, aim for level trim with the waterline flat

• In strong winds, move aft a touch to keep the bow from digging in

A well-trimmed boat glides.
A poorly trimmed one feels sticky and slow, no matter how hard you pull the ropes.

Side-to-side balance – controlling heel

Heel is not the enemy — excessive heel is.

• Sit inboard in very light winds to encourage the sails to fill

• Move outboard as the wind increases to keep the boat upright

• Hike only as much as needed — over-hiking can stall the sails

A flat boat is generally a fast boat, especially on a river where acceleration out of tacks matters more than raw speed.

Crew coordination (double-handers)

In boats like the RS Toura, Wayfarer, or similar training dinghies, helm and crew must move together:

• Slide forward together in light airs

• Move aft together when planing

• Adjust side-to-side weight smoothly during tacks and gybes

Nothing unsettles a boat faster than one person moving without the other expecting it.

The quiet skill that makes everything easier

Getting the seating position right doesn’t look dramatic.
There’s no spray, no noise, no heroics.

But it:

• Improves speed

• Reduces weather helm

• Makes steering lighter

• Makes sail trim easier

• Makes the boat feel calm instead of twitchy

It’s one of those skills that, once learned, makes everything else suddenly fall into place.