Splices, Whipping and Rope Ends — Useful Skills for Wet Winter Evenings

The Winter Boat Shed — Repair, Improve and Prepare for Next Season

The rain is tapping on the window, the river is uninviting and the boats are laid up. It is an excellent evening to bring a little sailing indoors.

Put a few rope offcuts on the table, find some whipping twine and give yourself one achievable task: finish a rope end properly.

It sounds a modest ambition. Yet these small jobs can make a noticeable difference next season. A tidy end is easier to handle. A clear identification system makes refitting simpler. Learning how a splice works also encourages us to look more carefully at the ropes we trust aboard.

With Champagne, our RS Toura and Whaly Coyote to look after, I like winter projects that produce something useful while teaching me something along the way. Ropework offers both, without needing to spend the evening outside with cold fingers.

Start with practice pieces. Move on to working ropes only when you can identify the rope and follow the correct manufacturer’s procedure.

Three jobs that are easily confused

Whipping, splicing and identification solve different problems.

Job	What it does	What it does not establish
Whipping	Binds a rope end to help prevent fraying or unlaying	The rope’s remaining strength or the security of a load-bearing eye
Splicing	Reworks the rope’s structure to form a termination or join	Suitability unless the method matches the product and application
Identification	Records which rope belongs where	Fibre, condition or strength merely from its colour

A neat whipping cannot repair a damaged core. Nor does binding two parts together with twine turn an improvised loop into an approved eye splice.

Understanding those distinctions makes the workshop more useful from the outset.

Identify the rope before choosing the technique

Two ropes of the same diameter can need quite different treatment.

A three-strand rope has three obvious strands twisted together. A double braid has a braided cover surrounding a braided core. An uncovered hollow braid has another structure again. Some covered ropes carry most of their load in the core; others distribute it differently.

Manufacturer, product name, nominal diameter, fibre and construction are the information to find. Keep the label or invoice when buying new rope, and label suitable offcuts for future practice.

If an old piece has an unknown history, call it an unidentified practice sample. Colour and softness are not reliable material tests.

Marlow and Samson publish different procedures for different constructions and products. Their guides are a useful reminder that there is no universal “sailing rope splice”.

Assemble a small ropework kit

You can begin whipping without buying a large collection of specialist tools.

• Known rope offcuts, preferably clean and dry.
• Suitable whipping twine, often waxed polyester for general sailing ropework.
• Sharp scissors or a knife and a cutting board.
• Tape measure, removable labels and a notebook.
• A marker suitable for the rope, following manufacturer guidance.
• For later projects, a sailmaker’s needle and palm, plus fids or splicing tools appropriate to the rope and procedure.

Work under good light. Keep a needle’s path clear of your fingers and never force it towards your hand. Set aside heat tools until you have established that they suit the material.

My preference would be to learn one technique with a manageable piece of rope before covering the bench with several unfinished experiments.

First project: make a common whipping

A common whipping is a good introduction because you can practise it without a needle. Choose a sound offcut with a manageable diameter, perhaps around 8–10 mm, and contrasting twine so you can see the turns.

This exercise finishes an end; it is not a structural splice.

1. Make a loop along the rope

Lay a length of twine along the rope and double it back into a long, narrow loop. Place the loop’s bend towards the rope end. Leave a short tail projecting at the other end of the area you intend to bind.

Leave enough rope beyond the planned whipping to trim neatly afterwards.

2. Wrap towards the rope end

Use the long working end of the twine to make close, firm turns around the rope, covering the lengthwise twine and both legs of the loop.

Work towards the loop’s bend. Keep each turn beside the previous one rather than piling turns on top of each other. Leave the bend exposed beyond the final turn.

For this practice piece, aim for a band roughly as long as the rope is wide. That is a useful starting proportion for learning, not a specification for every rope.

3. Secure the twine beneath the turns

Pass the working end through the exposed loop. Pull the original short tail at the opposite end, drawing the loop and captured working end underneath the wrapping.

Stop with that junction beneath the middle of the band. Pulling it right through defeats the finish.

4. Trim and examine

Trim the twine tails and the projecting rope end, leaving a small margin beyond the whipping. Avoid cutting against the binding itself.

Check whether the turns are even, whether gaps appear when you gently flex the sample and whether the whole band slides easily towards the end. If it slips, unwind it and try again.

The first useful result is recognising what needs improving.

Try a sewn finish next

A common whipping is an accessible start, but a correctly made sewn whipping can provide a more secure finish for a working end.

Traditional sailmaker’s whipping on three-strand rope and stitched finishes on braided rope are not interchangeable instructions. Choose a demonstrated method appropriate to the construction, and distinguish end whipping from any lock stitching required to finish a splice.

A useful learning exercise is to place two samples side by side: one common whipping and one correctly sewn finish. Compare bulk, neatness and resistance to sliding. Label the method and date so that you can inspect them again later.

Should you melt the ends?

“It is synthetic, so melt it” is too broad a rule.

Fibres respond differently to heat, and a covered rope can contain more than one material. Heat can also leave a hard, sharp lump or damage fibres beyond the cut.

Use heat cutting or sealing only where the rope manufacturer recommends it, with suitable equipment and ventilation. Avoid experimenting with an unidentified rope over a flame at the kitchen table.

Tape is useful for temporarily containing a cut end while you work. It is not a permanent substitute for the finish the rope needs.

Before shortening a working line, check its full required length, travel and termination allowances. A tidy end is little consolation if the sheet no longer reaches.

Make identification useful to the next person

“The blue rope” works until three blue ropes appear on the bench.

For Champagne, I would use a written code such as CH-JS-01 for a jib sheet, supported by photographs showing its route and attachments. The Toura and Coyote could have their own prefixes.

These are proposed examples, rather than records of work already completed.

Example code	Meaning	Supporting record
CH-JS-01	Champagne jib sheet	Route, length and attachment photographs
RT-CL-01	Toura control line	Purpose and refitting notes
WC-ML-01	Coyote mooring line	Product, dimensions and end details

Coloured whipping can provide a second visual cue, but pair colour with a written description. An identification system should still work for someone who cannot readily distinguish the colours.

Keep loose tags for storage. Before sailing, remove anything that might catch or obstruct a line’s passage through blocks and cleats. Check that permanent end finishes also run freely where required.

Learn splicing one construction at a time

An eye splice makes a permanent loop by rearranging the rope’s structure. Depending on the construction, this may involve interweaving strands, burying a tail or working with both core and cover.

The following is a learning sequence, not a set of instructions for making working splices.

Stage 1: understand three-strand rope

Use a known practice piece and its manufacturer’s eye-splice instructions. Follow one strand at a time and examine how the strands are tucked into the standing part.

Do not rely on a remembered number of tucks: use the specified procedure for that rope. Keep the completed sample labelled for practice.

Stage 2: explore a suitable hollow braid

A hollow-braid eye can be an approachable next project, provided the rope has a published procedure.

Pay attention to the specified bury, taper and securing method. A locking arrangement does not give permission to shorten the required buried tail. The rope’s name and diameter matter more than whether an online example looks similar.

Stage 3: approach covered ropes carefully

Double-braid and core-dependent covered ropes require the correct treatment of their internal structure. A method for one product may be inappropriate for another that looks almost identical.

Start with new, identified practice rope where possible. An old, stiff line is an unnecessarily frustrating first teacher.

Keep practice pieces separate from working equipment

A sample eye hanging on the workshop wall and a halyard termination aboard Champagne have different consequences if they fail.

Suitable workshop exercise	Application needing a verified specification and competent workmanship
Whipping an offcut	Finishing a service rope without compromising it
Making a labelled display eye	Halyards, sheets and loaded control attachments
Learning a soft-shackle pattern	Soft shackles used in working rigging
Making a decorative rope sample	Mooring, towing or securing a boat

Put practice pieces in a separate box marked “PRACTICE — NOT FOR SERVICE”. Avoid leaving a convincing-looking sample among the boat’s spares.

For a working splice, establish the exact rope and use its current manufacturer-approved method. Follow every requirement for measurements, taper, bury, eye geometry and securing stitches. Confirm compatibility with the attachment and the intended load.

If you cannot establish those details or confidently assess your workmanship, use a competent rigger. Marlow expressly recommends professional splicing and installation for boat owners.

Pulling hard by hand does not establish a safe working load. Nor can a neat exterior demonstrate that the hidden parts were made correctly.

Five mistakes worth avoiding

Covering damage with a smart finish. Inspect first. Whipping cannot restore cut or degraded fibres.

Copying a splice from a similar-looking rope. Match the product and construction, then follow its instructions.

Shortening the buried tail to save material. Allow enough rope for the specified splice from the start.

Assuming a soft shackle is suitable because it closes. Its rope, construction, stopper, dimensions and intended attachment all matter.

Promoting an attractive practice piece into service. Keep learning samples clearly identified until there is a sound basis for making and checking working equipment.

A useful one-hour winter session

Spend the first ten minutes identifying and labelling your samples. Use the next twenty to make, examine and remake a common whipping.

Then spend twenty minutes following one manufacturer’s tutorial for a known practice rope, pausing to record each stage. Finish by photographing the results and writing one improvement for next time.

If the whipping takes the whole hour, that is still a worthwhile evening. There is no prize for finishing a splice before you understand it.

For me, this has much in common with teaching a practical skill: try it, examine what happened and change one thing on the next attempt. The confidence worth having comes from understanding the work.

A small skill that earns its place aboard

Winter maintenance includes jobs that need a boatbuilder, a rigger or a substantial budget. It also includes evenings when a little twine and patient practice can make next season easier.

A well-finished end is more pleasant to handle. A clear label saves confusion. Learning how ropes are constructed helps us ask better questions about the equipment aboard.

For Champagne, the Toura and Coyote, I would count that as useful progress: better organisation, better workmanship and a clearer understanding of when to ask for specialist help.

Choose one offcut this evening. Finish it carefully, label it honestly and learn enough to make the next one better.

Manufacturer references

• Marlow Ropes: Splicing instructions, tools and tutorials
• Samson Rope: Construction-specific splicing instructions

Use the procedure for the actual rope product; these reference collections do not make one method suitable for every rope.

Return to the Winter Boat Shed https://pmrsailing.uk/Champagne-A-Rater/The-Winter-Boat-Shed.html

The Winter Boat Shed — Repair, Improve and Prepare for Next Season Replace Every Rope — Or Just the Ones That Need It?

 

The Winter Boat Shed — Repair, Improve and Prepare for Next Season

Replace Every Rope — Or Just the Ones That Need It?

A faded rope is not necessarily finished—and a smart-looking one is not necessarily sound.

There is something very tempting about a chandlery display of new rope. Bright colours, neat coils and the promise of smoother sailing can make replacing everything seem an excellent winter project.

Then you start adding up the sheets, halyards and control lines.

With Champagne, our RS Toura and Whaly Coyote to look after, I want winter maintenance to produce a useful improvement. Some ropes may deserve immediate replacement. Others may need cleaning, better storage or a closer look at the fitting through which they run.

The starting point is a question:

What evidence tells me this rope is still suitable for its job?

Start with what annoyed you last summer

Before removing anything, write down the problems you remember from sailing.

Was a sheet uncomfortable to hold? Did a control line refuse to release? Was a halyard slipping? Did a rope repeatedly twist into a tangle just when you needed it?

These observations give the inspection a purpose. A rope can remain intact while becoming frustrating to use. Equally, a reluctant control might have a perfectly serviceable rope running through a worn or unsuitable block.

On Champagne, I would approach this as part of the whole control system: follow the line from its attachment, through every turning point, to the crew member using it.

On the Toura, I would also ask whether the lines are easy to recognise and manage when several people are aboard.

A winter inspection should investigate both damage and difficulty.

Photograph and label before you remove

This follows naturally from the previous Winter Boat Shed article: photograph it before you take it apart.

Capture the overall route, then close-ups of attachments, blocks, cleats, knots and splices. Label both ends and give each rope an identification code.

For example:

CH-JS-01 = Champagne jib sheet, number one.

“Blue rope” becomes surprisingly unhelpful when three blue ropes are lying on the bench.

Where a halyard runs inside a mast, arrange a suitable messenger line before withdrawing it. Secure the connection properly and check that it can pass through the route. Losing a halyard inside Champagne’s tall mast would turn a straightforward inspection into a much larger job.

Work with the boat secure and the line unloaded. Anything supporting the mast or securing the boat needs suitable alternative support or restraint before removal.

This inspection concerns fibre ropes. Wire standing rigging needs separate assessment and specifications.

Inspect with your fingers as well as your eyes

Lay the rope on a clean surface and work along its entire length in short sections.

Look and feel for changes. Marlow’s inspection guidance identifies uneven diameter, abrasion, fused fibres, stiff sections, damaged terminations and discolouration as warning signs. Pay particular attention to eyes, splices and attachment points. marlowropes.com

What you find	What to do
Cuts, broken strands or a worn-through cover	Remove from service for replacement or competent assessment.
An exposed core where a cover should be present	Investigate as damage; identify the construction first.
A local lump, thin patch, unusual stiffness or melted area	Isolate the line for assessment.
A splice that has moved or an eye worn at its bearing point	Stop using it until assessed or correctly renewed.
Fading, surface fluff or a change in feel	Investigate the extent, history and manufacturer’s guidance.

These observations need interpretation. Some ropes are deliberately uncovered. Light surface fuzz means different things on different constructions.

Colour loss cannot measure remaining strength, and a clean cover cannot guarantee a healthy core.

If significant uncertainty remains about a line whose failure matters, replace it or consult a competent rigger. Pulling hard on it by hand does not prove it fit for sailing.

Find the cause before fitting the replacement

Suppose a sheet has a badly worn patch. Before ordering another, identify where that patch sits when the boat is sailing.

Does it coincide with a cleat, a deck edge or a turning block? Has the rope been taking a shortcut around something it should pass through?

Photograph the wear and its position on the boat. Replacing a line without correcting the source of abrasion can put the next rope on the same path to failure.

Marlow recommends checking the associated hardware, including sheaves, clutches and jammers. Follow the fitting manufacturer’s instructions when servicing them. marlowropes.com

A new rope may be necessary. A new rope and a corrected lead may be the actual solution.

Build an inventory you can use next winter

A notebook or simple spreadsheet is enough. Record purpose, diameter, length and condition, then add the details that make ordering and refitting easier.

The following entries are illustrative inspection notes, rather than findings or specifications for my boats.

Boat and purpose	Diameter	Length	Condition or handling	Action
Champagne jib sheet	Measure	Measure	Local wear near a turning point	Assess rope and inspect fitting
Toura mainsheet	Measure	Measure	No concern found; comfortable to handle	Retain and record review date
Champagne control line	Measure	Measure	Intact but difficult to release	Check rope and cleat compatibility
Coyote mooring line	Measure	Measure	History uncertain	Assess suitability before reuse

Also record:

• Identification code and colour.
• Manufacturer, product and construction, if known.
• Installation date, or “unknown”.
• End fittings and splice details.
• Photograph reference and inspection date.

Never guess the fibre from colour alone.

Measure diameter at several relatively unworn places without crushing the rope. Keep the measured diameter separate from the original nominal size, if known.

Measure length under light, consistent tension and note whether the measurement includes eyes and knots.

The existing length is useful evidence, but the rope may have stretched, been shortened or always been the wrong length. Check the full route and required movement before ordering, including allowances for terminations and a usable tail.

Keep the old line as a labelled reference until its replacement has been fitted and checked.

Make three clear decisions

1. Retain and maintain

Keep ropes that remain suitable for their job, have no unresolved concerns and work properly.

Record what you checked and when.

“Retained” should mean a considered decision, rather than “I forgot to order that one”.

2. Replace before sailing

Prioritise damaged lines, suspect terminations and unresolved concerns about important load-bearing ropes.

Consider the consequences of failure as well as the appearance of wear. A failing control line can suddenly change the crew’s ability to manage the boat.

Mooring and towing lines deserve their own suitability checks. An old sheet does not automatically become an appropriate mooring rope.

3. Improve when there is a clear benefit

A sound rope may still be poorly suited to its job.

A more comfortable sheet, a control that releases cleanly or clearer colour coding could make sailing easier.

For Champagne, the question is:

Which change will help us handle the boat more consistently?

For the Toura, it might be:

Which change will make the controls easier for the whole crew to use?

That gives an upgrade a purpose beyond making the boat look smarter.

Choose the replacement for the job

Buying by diameter alone leaves too much unanswered.

Marlow’s selection guidance distinguishes the low-stretch requirements of halyards from the durability and comfortable handling needed in sheets. Material, construction, load and boat size all influence the choice. Marlow Ropes

Check the exact product against your blocks and cleats, including their supported rope sizes. Ask a supplier or rigger to confirm the specification where loads or construction are uncertain.

Published breaking load is not a safe working load for the finished installation.

Do not automatically copy an existing rope: a previous owner may have fitted a convenient spare. Nor should “stronger” automatically mean “better” if the replacement slips in the cleat, feels uncomfortable or does not run freely.

Terminations are part of the specification too. Follow the rope manufacturer’s instructions for the exact construction, or have suitable splices made professionally.

Clean and store the ropes you are keeping

Follow the care instructions for the particular rope.

Marlow’s sailing guidance recommends gentle soaking and agitation in fresh water with mild soap flakes, followed by rinsing. It advises against scrubbing or pressure washing and recommends natural air drying away from direct sun and heaters. marlowropes.com

Do not assume a washing machine, bleach, solvent or household treatment is suitable.

Cleaning can remove dirt; it cannot restore damaged fibres.

Once dry, store ropes labelled, clean and away from sunlight, chemicals and unnecessary heat.

Use a coiling method appropriate to the construction. Figure-eight coils can help avoid introducing twist into braided lines. marlowropes.com

Rope bags aboard Champagne could also help keep working tails organised, provided the lines remain free to run and the bags can drain. An orderly cockpit should make the next manoeuvre easier.

Give retired rope a definite destination

Useful offcuts can become knot-practice samples or labelled workshop ties where failure has no meaningful consequence.

Mark them clearly so they cannot drift back into the sailing kit.

Do not retain a damaged line as an emergency spare for the same demanding job. A rope already judged unsuitable will not improve because the situation has become urgent.

Where collection or recycling schemes are available, check what they accept before delivering mixed fibres, metal fittings or contaminated rope.

This weekend: inspect five lines properly

Choose a manageable first session:

1. Photograph and label five lines.
2. Inspect their full lengths and terminations.
3. Record purpose, diameter, length and condition.
4. Investigate corresponding wear points on the boat.
5. Assign an action: retain, assess or replace, or improve.

Then complete those actions before expanding the list.

Five thoroughly checked ropes are more useful than an ambitious inventory containing nothing but question marks.

The aim is confidence in every line

Winter maintenance can easily become a shopping exercise. I would rather finish knowing what each rope does, why it remains aboard and what needs attention before the next sail.

Some lines will earn another season. Some will need replacing. Others may reveal a problem elsewhere in the boat.

For Champagne, the Toura and Coyote, that is a useful winter’s work: spending where it matters, keeping what remains serviceable and making next season’s sailing easier to manage.

Before buying a boatful of rope, inspect the boatful you already have.

Return to the Winter Boat Shed https://pmrsailing.uk/Champagne-A-Rater/The-Winter-Boat-Shed.html

The Winter Boat Shed — Repair, Improve and Prepare for Next Season Photograph It Before You Take It Apart

 

The Winter Boat Shed — Repair, Improve and Prepare for Next Season

Photograph It Before You Take It Apart

The most useful photograph you take this winter might be the one that tells you where that rope belongs in spring.

There is a particular confidence that arrives just before dismantling something.

“I’ll remember how that goes.”

A few months later, you are standing beside the boat with a block, two shackles and a length of rope, wondering why there seem to be three possible ways of putting them together.

Winter maintenance creates a gap between taking things apart and needing them again. During that gap, fittings get cleaned, ropes get replaced and small components migrate into boxes. A photographic record can turn an uncertain reconstruction into a straightforward job.

With Champagne, the RS Toura and Whaly Coyote to look after, this is a natural meeting point between my sailing and photography interests. The aim is simple: leave enough information for next spring’s version of yourself.

Start While Everything Is Still Together

The first photograph needs to happen before the first shackle comes undone.

Once a rope has been pulled out of its blocks, you have already lost information about its route. Once washers have fallen into a tray, their original order becomes a puzzle.

Start with the boat as it stands. Photograph the cockpit, mast base, boom fittings, control lines, rudder arrangement and any equipment you intend to remove. Include both sides where the arrangements differ.

Record the current condition honestly. A photograph showing an awkward lead or a worn fitting may be particularly useful because it identifies something to investigate.

A photograph records what was there. It does not prove that the arrangement was correct or safe. Where something looks doubtful, compare it with the appropriate boat or equipment instructions and seek experienced advice.

Take Three Views: Whole, Route and Detail

A single close-up often misses the information you need most: where the component belongs.

Use a simple three-picture sequence.

1. The whole arrangement. Show enough of the boat to establish the location. A rudder fitting makes more sense when you can see the transom around it.

2. The route or relationship. Show how the rope travels, how the block hangs or how one fitting connects to another.

3. The detail. Move closer to record the pin, washer, attachment hole, knot or visible wear.

For a mainsheet system, that means an overall picture, a view showing the sequence through the blocks, and close-ups of the starting attachment and final lead.

Photograph from another angle if one rope disappears behind another. A picture can look perfectly clear on a phone screen while concealing the very crossing you need to understand.

Follow the Rope from Beginning to End

Ropes are particularly good at looking obvious until they have been removed.

Follow each sheet, halyard or control line from its attachment point to its working end. Record:

• Where it begins and how it is attached.
• Each block, fairlead or turning point in order.
• Which side of an obstruction it passes.
• Where it enters a cleat.
• Any stopper knot, splice or joining point.

On Champagne, I would make a separate sequence for each control rather than relying on one photograph of a busy cockpit. On the Toura, sheets and control systems deserve the same attention, even where the arrangement initially looks familiar.

Use a temporary numbered card beside each turning point if the route is difficult to follow. Keep those numbers in the notebook too.

If a line runs inside a mast or boom, stop before pulling it out: photographs cannot preserve an internal route. Check the appropriate instructions and plan how the route will be retained before removal.

Measure It — Do Not Rely on Rope Colour

“The blue rope” is a description that becomes less useful when there are several blue ropes.

Give each line a name and record its measured length, diameter where known, purpose, condition and end fittings. Note whether the length includes knots, splices or attachments.

Measure removed rope laid out without deliberately stretching it, and record the method. If it is still installed and you can only estimate, write “estimate”.

An old rope provides a reference, but it is not automatically the ideal replacement. It may have been too short, unnecessarily long or poorly suited to the cleats.

A useful entry might read:

CH-07 — Champagne, jib sheet. Record measured length and diameter before ordering. Photograph attachment and leads on both sides. Note any chafe and whether the existing length worked well.

Standing rigging needs more precise specification. Photograph terminals and adjustment positions, but have a competent rigger confirm replacement dimensions and end fittings. A photograph beside a tape measure is supporting information, not a complete specification for a load-bearing component.

Give Small Parts an Address

A box labelled “boat bits” is a promise of future frustration.

Use an identifier that connects the part, its photographs and the notebook. For example:

• CH-01: Champagne, rudder fitting.
• TO-01: Toura, seat repair fittings.
• CY-01: Whaly Coyote, camera mounting bracket.

Photograph the identifier beside the component before removal. Put the same identifier on its storage container.

Keep each assembly’s small parts together. Where order matters, photograph each stage as it comes apart, showing the sequence of washers, spacers and fastenings.

Dry components before sealing them in bags. For items that need ventilation, use a suitable labelled container instead.

Use words as well as coloured labels. “Port side, forward attachment” is more reliable than “red sticker”, particularly when labels fade or someone else helps with reassembly.

Keep damaged parts clearly marked and separate from serviceable spares.

Photograph Damage Before Cleaning or Repairing It

An overall view locates a problem. A close-up shows what you noticed.

For visible damage, take both, with a ruler or scale beside the affected area where practical. Record the date and exact location. Take a further photograph after cleaning if that reveals more detail.

Champagne’s whitish marks towards the bow are a useful example. Before professional assessment or repair, I would want an image showing their position on the hull and closer views showing their appearance.

Those photographs can help explain the concern to the boatbuilder. They cannot establish what is happening beneath the surface.

The Toura’s seat repair offers another useful record: the condition before work, what becomes visible during the repair, and the completed result. Record the repair materials and method in the notebook so that a later problem can be understood in context.

Try to repeat the angle and lighting for before-and-after pictures. A different reflection can make a surface look dramatically better without showing whether anything has changed.

Keep a Notebook That Answers the Next Question

The RYA’s winterising guidance recommends listing what has been done so that the necessary steps can be reversed in spring. A photographic maintenance record develops that into a practical working system.

Use a paper notebook, spreadsheet or notes app — whichever you will actually maintain. Keep the headings simple:

Record	What to include
Identification	Boat, component and part code
Observation	What you saw or what happened during use
Evidence	Photo filenames, measurements and date
Action	Inspect, repair, replace or ask a specialist
Progress	Planned, dismantled, ordered, completed or checked
Storage	Exact box, shelf or bag location
Completion	Work done and checks still required

Separate observations from conclusions.

“Movement felt at rudder fitting” is an observation. “Needs a new cassette” is a proposed diagnosis that may need checking.

Also distinguish “refitted” from “checked and ready for use”. A maintenance record should make unfinished work visible.

Add a Short Video When Movement Matters

Some things are easier to explain while they move.

A short video can show how a control operates, where a line rubs or which part of a fitting moves unexpectedly. Begin with a wide view, move closer and explain what you are pointing at.

Say the boat name, component and date aloud. Describe what happens when you move it gently, without forcing or loading a suspect fitting.

For Coyote, a recording could document the existing camera mount and tether arrangement before an upgrade. Photograph accessible motor and battery identification labels, cable routes and connector positions if those are relevant to planned work. Follow the equipment’s isolation instructions before touching electrical connections.

A thirty-second explanation may be more useful than several minutes of silent footage. Keep still photographs as well: they are quicker to consult with tools in your hands.

Make the Pictures Easy to Find

A maintenance archive needs to survive beyond your phone’s camera roll.

Create a folder for the winter season, with a separate folder for each boat. Give important images meaningful filenames, such as:

• Champagne_CH-01_Rudder_Before_2026-10-31.jpg
• Toura_TO-01_Seat_Underside_Before_2026-10-31.jpg
• Whaly  Coyote_CY-01_Camera_Mount_Before_2026-10-31.jpg

Keep original photographs and save annotated copies separately. Arrows and numbers can clarify an image, but should not obscure the original detail.

Back up the folder somewhere independent of the phone. If another person may help with the work, make sure they can find the relevant records too.

This Weekend’s Boat Shed Job

Choose one assembly that you intend to remove this winter.

1. Photograph its location, route and details.
2. Record measurements and anything uncertain.
3. Assign a part code.
4. Label its storage container.
5. Write the next action in the notebook.
6. Check that the pictures are sharp and backed up before dismantling.

That is enough to establish the habit. You can extend the system as each new job begins.

Give Yourself a Better Start in Spring

For me, photography is usually about recording an experience: Champagne under sail, the crew working together or the river in changing light.

In the winter boat shed, the camera has another valuable job. It records relationships that memory is surprisingly poor at retaining: which way a fitting faced, where a rope turned and which washer sat against which surface.

The best maintenance record will also show what needs improving, what has been completed and what still requires attention.

Before reaching for the spanner, reach for the camera. A few deliberate minutes now could save a cold afternoon of guesswork when you would much rather be sailing.

Return to the Winter Boat Shed https://pmrsailing.uk/Champagne-A-Rater/The-Winter-Boat-Shed.html

The Winter Boat Shed — Repair, Improve and Prepare for Next Season Flooded River, Stored Boat — What Still Needs Checking?

 

The Winter Boat Shed — Repair, Improve and Prepare for Next Season

Flooded River, Stored Boat — What Still Needs Checking?

A boat ashore can still be affected by what the river is doing.

When we put a boat away for winter, it is tempting to think that we have taken the river out of the equation. The sails are stored, the cover is on and the next job involves a paintbrush rather than a buoyancy aid.

But a riverside boat park remains part of a riverside environment. Water levels can change, access can disappear and ground that supported a trolley perfectly well last week can become saturated.

The winter maintenance plan therefore needs another question alongside “What needs repairing?”

Can I safely get to the boat, work on it and get home again?

For my three boats, the arrangements are different. Champagne is in the lean-to for hull stripping, revarnishing and painting. Whaly Coyote has her new cover in the boat park. The RS Toura is outside, tied down to the ground, with the seat repair still on the list.

Each arrangement has advantages. Each needs checking. None makes the surrounding conditions irrelevant.

The First Inspection Happens Before You Leave Home

A winter visit starts with a check of conditions, rather than loading the car.

For a boat beside the Thames, I would check:

• Official flood alerts, warnings and river-level information.
• The forecast for the period of the visit and the journey home.
• Club notices about access, closures or restricted areas.
• Whether roads, gates and paths are usable.
• Whether the proposed job needs electricity, lifting or more than one person.

In England, the official Check for Flooding service provides warnings, water-level information and a five-day flood-risk forecast. These are useful planning tools, but they do not certify that a particular boat-park entrance is safe.

Check flooding and river levels

It is also worth distinguishing between information about the river and information about the land. Thames stream warnings help boaters assess river conditions; they are not an inspection of the club’s car park, paths or storage areas.

Check river conditions and closures

No warning on a screen should be treated as permission to ignore what is happening at the gate.

Safe Access Includes the Way Back

Imagine arriving to find the boat park itself apparently dry, but water spreading across the lower part of the approach.

The temptation is to think, “I will only be ten minutes.”

That is exactly when the return journey deserves attention. A route that is deteriorating on arrival is a poor basis for starting a maintenance session. Darkness, further rain or a rising level could make leaving more difficult.

Government guidance is clear: do not walk, cycle or drive through floodwater, and do not put yourself at risk to move belongings. Floodwater can conceal uneven surfaces, debris and missing drain covers.

Read the official flood safety advice

Wellies do not establish that a route is safe. Nor does knowing where the path normally runs.

If access involves floodwater, the visit waits. If the club has closed the site, the visit waits. If there is uncertainty about getting out safely, the varnishing can wait as well.

Three Boats, Three Different Winter Checks

The same weather can create different problems for boats stored only a short distance apart.

Boat	Winter arrangement	Checks when access is safe
Champagne	In the lean-to during hull work	Water entering the shelter, damp working conditions, ground and cradle stability, tools and materials stored low down
Whaly Coyote	Under her new cover in the boat park	Cover support and pooling, displaced straps, trolley support, loose equipment and the location of electrical accessories
RS Toura	Outside and tied down, awaiting further seat work	Cover drainage, tie-down condition, anchor security, trolley support and protection of the repair area

These are inspection priorities, rather than a claim that any of the boats has flooded.

Champagne: Shelter Still Needs Watching

The lean-to gives Champagne a useful place for winter work. It also makes it easy to concentrate on the hull and forget to look down.

Where are the sanding tools? Are the abrasives in a box on the floor? Could water reach an extension lead? Is a drip landing beside the area being prepared?

Before starting work, I would look at the ground, the supports and the shelter itself. Evidence of movement, damaged supports or undermined ground needs assessment before anyone works around or beneath the boat.

I would also check the coating manufacturer’s temperature, humidity and drying requirements before painting or varnishing. A free afternoon does not automatically provide suitable conditions.

Coyote: A Good Cover Is Only Part of the Protection

Coyote’s new cover is a useful improvement, but the inspection needs to include what is underneath and around her.

Is the cover still shedding rain? Has a support moved? Are straps rubbing? Has the trolley settled into the ground?

For an electric boat, the storage location of chargers, connectors and other electrical equipment deserves particular thought. Before flooding threatens, and while access is safe, removable equipment should be stored in a secure, dry location in line with its manufacturer’s instructions. Battery handling and storage need to follow the specific system’s guidance.

A box described as waterproof is no reason to leave valuable electrical equipment where floodwater may reach it.

The Toura: Tied Down Does Not Mean Finished

The Toura is tied down to the ground, which makes the condition of both the straps and their anchoring arrangements part of the winter inspection.

From a safe position, look for slack straps, chafe, displaced anchors or a trolley that has sunk unevenly. Do not assume that an anchor remains sound simply because its strap still looks tight.

If the ground or support has become unstable, pause and arrange suitable help. Pulling harder on a strap is not a remedy for an uncertain foundation.

The seat repair also needs protection from water and dirt. Some winter afternoons are better spent preparing the next stage indoors than trying to complete it in unsuitable conditions.

What Happens If Water Reaches the Boat Park?

A boat is designed to float, but a boat stored ashore is not necessarily arranged to float safely.

A hull may lift before its trolley does. A cradle may remain on the ground while the boat moves against it. Covers, straps and neighbouring equipment can complicate matters.

That makes flood preparation a separate task from ordinary wind protection.

There is no universal instruction to “tie it tighter” or “release the straps”. Suitable arrangements depend on the boat, supports, anchoring points and site. They should be agreed in advance with the club’s storage lead or harbourmaster, with professional advice where needed.

If higher storage is available, any relocation should be planned and completed early, with permission, appropriate handling equipment and safe access. Rising water is not the time to improvise a recovery operation.

Move the Vulnerable Things Before They Become Difficult to Reach

One useful winter exercise is to look at the storage area from floor level.

What would be damaged first? What might float away? What would be expensive or difficult to replace?

Items worth reviewing include:

• Sails, clothing and soft kit.
• Cameras, microphones, radios and instruments.
• Chargers, power tools and extension leads.
• Paints, solvents, oils and other maintenance materials.
• Spare ropes, loose fittings and empty containers.

Where practical, move vulnerable items to a designated dry location outside the expected flood area. Simply lifting something onto a low shelf may not provide enough protection. Store heavy equipment securely rather than creating a top-heavy stack.

Keep chemicals in suitable closed containers, following their storage instructions. A leaking tin is an environmental problem as well as a maintenance nuisance.

For me, the camera equipment is an obvious example. If I cannot use it on the river during a spell of poor conditions, there is little benefit in leaving it beside the river.

A Closed Boat Park Needs Clear Communication

Clubs can reduce unnecessary journeys by giving members a clear, dated access update.

A useful notice explains:

• Whether the site is open, restricted or closed.
• Which entrances or areas are affected.
• When the information was checked.
• Where the next update will appear.
• How owners should report concerns.

For example:

“Boat-park access is closed because the approach is flooded. Please do not travel to inspect boats. A further update will follow after conditions have been reassessed.”

That gives people a decision they can act on.

A photograph from yesterday may provide context, but it is not evidence that today’s route is safe. Equally, asking someone else to check a boat should never become pressure for them to enter an unsafe area.

When the Water Falls, Start With an Inspection

A falling river is encouraging. It does not automatically mean that maintenance can resume.

Once access has been confirmed as safe, begin with observation. Look for debris, soft ground, displaced trolleys, altered supports and signs that water reached stored equipment.

Photograph damage before moving things where practical, keep a record and contact the club or insurer as appropriate. Avoid disturbing a boat that appears unstable.

Do not reconnect electrical equipment that may have been flooded. Arrange an appropriate competent assessment before reuse. Government guidance also says never to touch an electrical switch while standing in water.

Then revise the job list. Checking supports or dealing with water damage may now take priority over a cosmetic improvement.

A Simple Winter Visit Record

A short record helps turn occasional visits into useful observations.

Record	Example
Date and access	Daylight visit; club confirmed access open
Ground and supports	No visible movement; ground remains wet
Cover and straps	Cover shedding water; one chafe point photographed
Equipment	Camera kit removed to dry storage
Next action	Replace worn strap during next safe visit

Avoid turning this into a tick-box promise that the boat will remain safe. It records what you could observe at that time.

The Best Maintenance Decision May Be to Stay Home

There is satisfaction in making winter progress. A repaired seat, a prepared hull or a sorted rope bag is something tangible.

Postponing a visit feels less productive. Yet it can be the soundest decision of the week.

Champagne’s varnish will still need attention when access improves. Coyote’s cover can be checked when the route is safe. The Toura’s repair will benefit from suitable working conditions.

Meanwhile, there are useful jobs at home: reviewing photographs, ordering fittings, checking manufacturers’ instructions and planning the next stage.

Winter boat care includes knowing when to leave the boat alone.

Before the next spell of high water, identify the vulnerable equipment, agree the storage plan and know where to find reliable access information. Then, when the river changes, you have a plan rather than a hurried journey.

The purpose of winter maintenance is to bring the boats and their crews safely into another season. Sometimes the job that best serves that purpose is closing the toolbox and waiting.

Return to the Winter Boat Shed https://pmrsailing.uk/Champagne-A-Rater/The-Winter-Boat-Shed.html

 

Under the Cover — Is Your Boat Really Ready for Winter?

The best test of a winter cover comes after the first storm.

Three boats, three winter arrangements — and three sets of things to check when the wind finally drops.

Champagne is in the lean-to, sheltered while we tackle stripping old finishes, revarnishing the timber and carrying out the necessary painting. Whaly Coyote is tucked beneath her own cover. The RS Toura is outside, tied down to the ground, with her seat being repaired.

It sounds reasonably organised.

Then the storms arrive.

Suddenly, the questions become rather more practical. Are the covers still attached? Have they shifted? Is rainwater pooling somewhere? Has a strap started rubbing? Is everything underneath as dry as it looked when we put it away?

Winter preparation has to survive real winter weather. That means going back occasionally to see how it is doing.

Three Boats Need Three Different Approaches

Boat	Winter arrangement	Particular priorities
Champagne	In the lean-to for refinishing and painting	Wind-driven rain, dry timber, ventilation and suitable coating conditions
Whaly Coyote	Beneath her own cover	Cover support, drainage and protection of propulsion equipment
RS Toura	Outside, tied down, with the seat being repaired	Ground anchors, straps, water accumulation and repair protection

Their situations differ, but the underlying questions are shared: keep unwanted water out, let moisture escape, avoid rubbing and make sure nothing has moved.

Champagne: A Roof Helps, but the Open Sides Matter

Having Champagne in the lean-to is a considerable advantage. It gives us somewhere sheltered to work and reduces direct exposure to rain.

It also changes the inspection. Instead of looking only at a boat cover, I need to consider the shelter itself.

Can wind-driven rain reach the bow or stern? Is water dripping from an edge or joint? Could roof runoff splash onto the boat? Have leaves obstructed the guttering? Has anything stored nearby become loose?

A roof overhead does not guarantee dry conditions everywhere underneath it.

That matters particularly while old finishes are being removed. Exposed timber needs protection, and revarnishing requires suitable conditions.

For Champagne, I will work in manageable areas rather than strip more than we can keep suitably protected. Before coating, check the chosen product’s requirements for preparation, timber dryness, temperature, humidity, dew point and drying time.

A mild afternoon does not guarantee a successful coat if the surface becomes damp as the evening cools.

Dust needs managing, too. Sanding beside a freshly coated surface can create extra work. Plan dusty preparation and coating as separate stages, following the product’s ventilation and safety instructions.

The lean-to gives us a place to work. It still needs managing as a winter workspace.

Coyote: Look Beyond the Reassuring Cover

Whaly Coyote looks reassuringly tucked away beneath her own cover.

The important word is “looks”.

Inspect the cover along its whole length. One section may shed rain perfectly while another develops a hollow beside a fitting.

Coyote’s electric propulsion system, connections and any filming accessories remaining aboard also deserve attention.

My checks would include:

• Is the cover resting on a cable, control or vulnerable fitting?
• Are its supports secure and clear of electrical equipment?
• Has water collected beneath it?
• Would portable cameras and accessories be better stored somewhere dry?
• Does the motor and battery storage arrangement follow the applicable instructions?

Her solar-charging arrangement needs considering as part of that plan. Battery storage and charging have their own requirements; a boat cover cannot establish suitable conditions by itself.

Use the instructions for the actual E60 battery and installed system, including storage charge, temperature limits and periodic checks. ePropulsion provides the relevant manuals through its download centre.

For a camera boat, protecting the equipment beneath the cover matters just as much as protecting the boat itself.

The Toura: Tied Down, but Still Worth Checking

The Toura is outside and tied down to the ground. That is an important preparation for windy weather, but it does not remove the need for inspection.

After a storm, I want to know whether the complete arrangement has held: boat, trolley, straps and ground anchors.

Rain can soften the ground. Straps can settle or move. A loose end can flick against the hull, while a shifted cover catches the wind differently.

Check anchor points and webbing, using an arrangement suitable for the boat and site. Secure her without excessive tension or concentrated loads on vulnerable parts. Suitable protection at contact points helps prevent rubbing.

The cover and boat need separate thought. Securing the hull does not automatically secure the cover.

Then there is the seat repair.

An outdoor repair area needs protection from rain and dirt. Any adhesive, sealant or other material must be used within its specified conditions. A cover does not necessarily make a cold, damp surface ready for bonding.

The repair method deserves its own article. For now, the priority is keeping the work area protected and checking that temporary protection has survived the weather.

Pooling Rainwater: A Small Hollow Becomes a Heavy Load

A cover should behave like a roof.

When water collects in a dip, its weight pulls the fabric down. The hollow deepens, catches more rain and increasingly strains seams, supports and fastenings.

Here is a useful calculation:

Water volume in litres = area in square metres x average depth in millimetres

For a pool covering 0.5 square metres with an average depth of 40 mm:

Water volume = 0.5 x 40 = 20 litres

That is approximately 20 kg sitting on the cover.

The depth must be an average, rather than simply the deepest point, but the example shows why a modest pool deserves attention.

Use suitable, stable supports with smooth contact points. Check the slope all the way to the edges: a good central ridge can still leave a pocket at the stern.

Remove water carefully from a safe position, then correct the fit or support. Do not crawl beneath a heavily loaded cover to push it upwards or haul on a strained seam.

Emptying the pool deals with today’s water. Improving the shape deals with the next rainfall.

Drainage: Trace the Water’s Route

Some rain may still find its way underneath. Where does it go?

Clear leaves and debris from cockpit outlets and accessible channels. Look around seats and low points for water with no easy escape route.

Ashore, the boat’s attitude on its trolley or cradle matters. Follow the manufacturer’s support and drainage guidance, keeping the arrangement stable.

RS describes the Toura as having a self-draining cockpit, but outlets still need to remain clear, and her storage position affects where water collects.

Identify openings before removing plugs. Cockpit drains and buoyancy-compartment bungs have different purposes.

A plug which may be removed for drainage ashore can need to remain fitted afloat. Follow the boat’s instructions and leave a clear reminder to refit anything required before launching.

A small label attached where it will be seen during rigging is much more useful than relying on remembering something several months later.

Ventilation: Dry-Looking Is Not Always Dry

Wrapping everything tightly can trap moisture already inside.

A wet rope bag, damp sail or persistent puddle can maintain a damp environment beneath an otherwise effective cover.

The RYA’s winterising guidance recommends covers that exclude rain while allowing air to circulate.

Use intended vents and avoid blocking them with another sheet. During suitable dry weather, supervised airing also gives an opportunity to inspect hidden areas.

The same principle matters in Champagne’s lean-to. Shelter is useful, but damp equipment against timber can keep a local area wet.

Look for:

• Water droplets beneath the cover.
• Damp ropes or fabric.
• Musty smells.
• Unexpected staining or changes in the finish.
• Water sitting in corners after the surrounding boat has dried.

Investigate the cause rather than simply closing everything up again.

Chafe: Winter Damage a Millimetre at a Time

A cover need not blow away to cause trouble.

Fabric moving against a fitting can wear through. A buckle can mark a hull. A loose strap can repeatedly strike the same spot.

Check corners, cleats, rigging contact points, hard fastenings and exposed edges. Secure loose ends and use appropriate soft protection.

Then check that the protection stays in position. Padding that moves away from the rubbing point offers little help; padding that holds water against the boat may create another problem.

Aim for an even fit. A loose cover can flap; an excessively tight one can strain seams and fittings.

On Champagne, anything touching the timber finish deserves particular attention. Protecting the results of winter work starts while the work is being planned.

After the Storm: Inspect the Whole Arrangement

Once conditions are safe, stand back before adjusting anything.

Has the boat moved? Does the cover look different? Is a support leaning? Has something shifted against the hull?

Then follow the same inspection each time:

1. Shelter and surroundings: look for obvious damage and displaced objects.
2. Boat and supports: inspect trolley, cradle, chocks and ground conditions.
3. Anchors and straps: check movement, slack, fraying and rubbing.
4. Cover shape: look for pools, sagging and displaced supports.
5. Underneath: check for standing water, trapped damp and new marks.
6. Repairs and equipment: inspect temporary protection, prepared surfaces and stored systems.
7. Record and act: photograph changes and note anything needing attention.

Do not enter an area threatened by damaged roofing or branches. At a riverside club, flooding can also affect safe access.

A useful inspection happens after the danger has passed.

Laying Up Includes Planning the Next Visit

This is the habit I want to carry through the winter-maintenance series:

Laying up a boat includes planning the next visit.

Inspect soon after covering, after substantial rain and following significant storms when access is safe. Between those visits, set a routine appropriate to the exposure, repair work and storage location, alongside club, yard or insurer requirements.

Champagne will naturally attract visits while work progresses. That provides a useful reminder to check Coyote and the Toura too.

Keep a short record. For example:

“Toura straps checked; cover secure; leaves cleared; seat-repair protection dry.”

A note and photograph make the next inspection more informative.

If you cannot visit, agree a checking arrangement with someone who can and explain what needs attention.

These visits can also help maintain the social side of sailing through winter: a conversation about repairs, a shared observation about a loose cover, or an extra pair of hands when something needs adjusting.

A Winter Visit Is an Investment in Next Season

Champagne is sheltered for refinishing. Coyote has her own cover. The Toura is secured outside while the seat receives attention.

Those are useful preparations. Their success depends on what happens next.

A cover can move. A drain can block. The ground can soften. Rain can arrive from a direction that seemed unimportant when everything was put away.

Fortunately, many problems are straightforward when caught early.

This week’s task: inspect your boat after rain. Check the cover’s lowest point, trace the drainage route, inspect the straps and lift an edge to see what is happening underneath.

Then decide when you will return.

The aim is to reach spring with the boat protected, the repair work progressing and fewer surprises waiting beneath the cover.

Return to the Winter Boat Shed https://pmrsailing.uk/Champagne-A-Rater/The-Winter-Boat-Shed.html

 

The Sailing Season Ends — But the Boat Work Begins

The best winter maintenance list starts with the things that annoyed you last summer.

The rope that always caught at the wrong moment. The fitting you had to jiggle before it would move. The seat you repaired once already. The patch of varnish you kept looking at and thinking, “I really must do something about that.”

During the sailing season, these things compete with a much more attractive prospect: getting afloat.

When there is a race about to start, a decent breeze on the river or an opportunity to take the family sailing, maintenance can become something we promise to do later.

Then autumn arrives.

The days shorten, the river becomes less predictable, and lifting a wet boat cover loses some of its appeal. For many of us, this is when the sailing slows down and the boat work begins.

With three very different boats to look after — our A-Rater Champagne, the RS Toura and Whaly Coyote, our electric camera boat — I have plenty to think about.

The challenge is turning all those remembered annoyances into a sensible winter plan.

Start With an Honest Review of the Season

Before reaching for polish, tools or a catalogue of tempting upgrades, it is worth asking three questions:

• What worked well?

• What broke, wore out or became unreliable?

• What did we keep meaning to fix?

That first question matters just as much as the other two.

A piece of equipment that worked reliably all season may need routine care rather than replacement. A rope that felt comfortable, ran freely and did its job has already passed a useful test. There is little value in changing it simply because something more expensive exists.

Equally, something that repeatedly caused trouble deserves attention, even if it looks reasonably presentable on the trolley.

The most useful inspection combines what you can see ashore with what you remember happening afloat.

A block may turn when you flick it with a finger, yet have been reluctant under load. A cleat may look sound but have allowed a rope to slip. A seat repair may appear acceptable until someone puts their weight on it.

Ask the people who sailed with you, too.

On a three-person boat such as Champagne, the helm will not notice every awkward lead, uncomfortable working position or troublesome fitting experienced by the rest of the crew.

“What kept getting in your way?” can be a remarkably productive maintenance question.

Inspect Before You Hide the Evidence

There is a temptation to begin with a thorough wash and put everything away looking respectable.

Cleaning is useful, but first take photographs and record anything that might help explain a problem: chafe marks, the way a rope has been rubbing, an unusual stain or the exact position of a loose fitting.

Then clean the boat using methods suitable for its materials, let things dry, and inspect again.

Work in a consistent order:

1. Hull, deck and visible structural areas.

2. Rudder, centreboard and steering arrangements.

3. Mast, boom, standing rigging and attachment points.

4. Sheets, halyards, blocks and cleats.

5. Sails, stitching and reinforced corners.

6. Covers, trolley, trailer and storage supports.

7. Safety equipment and any electrical systems.

For each concern, write down its location and what you actually observed.

“Rigging needs attention” is easily postponed.

“Photograph and measure both shrouds; ask a rigger about suitable replacements” gives you a next step.

You do not need to diagnose every problem yourself. Sometimes the right entry is simply: “Cause uncertain — get advice before using or repairing.”

Champagne: Look Beyond the Beautiful Silhouette

An A-Rater attracts attention for all the right reasons. Tall rig, elegant hull and an extraordinary presence on the river.

Looking after one also means becoming very familiar with the less glamorous details.

With Champagne, the winter inspection needs to revisit the areas that have already demanded attention: the rudder cassette, jib luff arrangement, covers, hull damage and timber finish.

The important word is revisit.

A repair completed during the season should be checked to see how it has performed. Has movement returned? Is there fresh chafe? Has water found another route in? Has a small damaged area changed?

Steering deserves an early place on the list

Play in a rudder arrangement can become something you gradually accommodate without realising it.

You steer around it. You get used to the feel. It becomes part of the boat’s character.

That does not make it harmless.

For Champagne, the sensible approach is to check the cassette and its attachments, establish where any movement originates, and assess the effectiveness of previous work.

A steering problem belongs near the top of the list because it affects control of the boat.

Rigging needs more than a quick glance

Our long shrouds raise a practical question: what happens when the replacement you can readily find is shorter than the one already fitted?

This is where measuring properly and getting appropriate advice matters. Overall assembly length, wire specification, terminal type and adjustment range all need to be considered together.

A nominally similar length in a catalogue is not enough information to order confidently.

Whether making up a wire assembly yourself is appropriate depends on the specified fittings, tools and method. That deserves its own investigation with a competent rigger, rather than an improvised solution because something is nearly the right size.

Know when to bring in a professional

The whitish marks towards the front of Champagne are something we plan to have assessed and repaired by a professional boatbuilder.

That is an important part of winter maintenance: recognising the limits of your own diagnosis.

A discoloured finish, trapped moisture and a problem beneath the surface can require different responses. Making an area look better does not necessarily resolve the cause.

I enjoy working on boats, but there is considerable value in paying someone with the right experience to establish what actually needs doing.

The RS Toura: Tough Boats Still Need Attention

The RS Toura has a very different job in our sailing life.

It is a practical family boat, with a durable polyethylene hull. RS specifies its construction as Comptec PE3 polyethylene, which also means hull work needs an approach appropriate to that material.

For our Toura, one item is particularly familiar: the seat needs attention again.

A repeat repair should prompt a better question than, “What shall I stick it back with this time?”

Why did the previous repair fail?

Was the original cause still present? Was the repair method suitable? Is there movement or loading that we have not properly accounted for?

Repeated failure is useful evidence. It suggests the job needs reassessing before repeating the same process.

Follow the whole system

The Toura inspection should also follow each control through its working route.

Take the mainsheet as an example. Look at the rope, its lead, the blocks, their attachments and the cleat. Replacing one worn component may achieve little if another part of the system caused the wear.

The same approach applies to the jib furler, reefing arrangements, spinnaker handling and lifting foils.

Think back to using them afloat:

• Did the centreboard move as expected?

• Did the rudder lift and secure reliably?

• Were reefing arrangements straightforward?

• Did sheets run freely?

• Was anything awkward enough that we avoided using it?

That last question is revealing. Equipment that is inconvenient often gets worked around, leaving the original problem unresolved.

Whaly Coyote: Electric Does Not Mean Maintenance-Free

Whaly Coyote has a different purpose again: providing a platform for filming and photography on the water.

Its ePropulsion Navy 3.0 and E60 battery make the electrical installation an important part of the inspection.

There may be no petrol engine to service, but there are still a motor, propeller, mounting arrangements, cables, connectors, controls and a substantial battery to look after.

Check for visible damage, loose supports, cable chafe and signs of moisture around connections. Isolate the system in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions before maintenance.

For winter storage, use the instructions for the particular motor and battery fitted. ePropulsion’s E-Series guidance calls for protecting connectors and monitoring battery charge during storage; the correct manual should determine the detailed routine.

“Put it away and forget about it until spring” is not much of a maintenance plan.

Camera equipment belongs on the boat list

For a camera boat, the inspection should include the things that keep the filming equipment secure and usable:

• Mounts, clamps and fixing points.

• Independent camera tethers.

• Cable routes and possible snagging points.

• Dry storage.

• Access to controls without obstructing movement.

Having already lost a camera, I have a particular interest in secure mounts and independent tethers.

A useful winter improvement might be a better camera position or a more convenient storage arrangement. It should also make working aboard easier and keep essential access clear.

Turn the Findings Into Three Lists

A long list of jobs can feel impressive while being surprisingly difficult to act on.

I prefer three straightforward categories.

Category	What belongs here?	Example
Essential repairs	Problems affecting safety, control, structural integrity or dependable operation; defects that may worsen in storage	Unresolved steering movement, damaged rigging or a leaking cover allowing further deterioration
Useful improvements	Changes that solve a recurring difficulty or make the boat easier to use	Better rope storage, clearer control labels or a more practical camera mount
Things that can wait	Cosmetic work and optional additions with no immediate consequence from postponement	Minor superficial marks or an extra camera angle

These categories require judgement.

A mark on a hull may be superficial, or it may need investigation. A damaged cover may seem less important than a sailing fitting, yet allow water to undo months of careful work.

Classify the consequence of the problem, rather than judging how dramatic it looks.

If you do not know the consequence, assessment becomes the first job.

Useful Improvements Should Solve a Named Problem

Winter is a dangerous season for browsing chandlery websites.

A new rope, clever fitting or additional gadget can quickly become something the boat apparently needs.

Before buying it, finish this sentence:

“This will improve our sailing because…”

For example:

“This rope bag will keep loose sheets out of the crew’s working area.”

“This revised camera mount will let us adjust the view without reaching awkwardly.”

“This replacement block will address the control that repeatedly jammed.”

Those are useful reasons.

It is also worth asking whether an existing part could work better after cleaning, adjustment or a corrected lead.

A particularly useful exercise aboard Champagne would be to walk through a tack or mark rounding ashore. Each person takes their usual position and explains what they need to reach, move or release.

Some improvements become obvious when you look at the boat as a working space.

Write Jobs You Can Actually Complete

“Sort out the boat” is a burden.

“Remove the suspect block, photograph its markings and identify a replacement” is a task.

For each significant job, record:

• The observation: what you saw or experienced.

• The next action: inspect, measure, obtain advice, repair or replace.

• Who will do it: you, another crew member or a specialist.

• What is needed: parts, information, workspace or suitable weather.

• The deadline: before storage, during winter or before launching.

• The check afterwards: how you will confirm the work has succeeded.

For example:

Observation: Seat repair on the Toura needs attention again.
Next action: Examine the failure and obtain advice on a suitable repair method.
Deadline: Before the next sailing session.
Check afterwards: Confirm that the seat and its attachments are secure before use.

This approach also helps with budgeting. Obtain quotations for the essential work before spending the available money on optional upgrades.

Do the Jobs in a Sensible Order

Some work becomes urgent as soon as the season ends.

Wet sails need appropriate drying and storage. A failing cover needs attention before it admits more water. A boat needs suitable support before being left ashore for months.

Other jobs need planning rather than immediate action.

Sailmakers, riggers and boatbuilders need time, so contact them early. Weather-dependent finishing work may need to wait for suitable conditions. Follow the relevant product instructions for preparation, temperature and curing.

Allow time for reassembly and checking, too.

A repair is not complete merely because the tools have been put away. Controls need to run correctly, fastenings need checking, and repaired systems need an appropriate test before normal use.

Where the boat is safe and conditions allow, a calm shakedown session can reveal things that an inspection ashore cannot.

Keep a Record — Including What Worked

Photographs and a simple notebook can save a great deal of uncertainty next winter.

Record what was repaired, which materials or parts were used, and how the work performed afterwards. Keep measurements and useful part references.

Also record the successes.

Which rope lasted well? Which cover arrangement kept water out? Which small change made launching easier?

Maintenance becomes more effective when you can learn from it, just as sailing does.

With three boats, that record is especially valuable. Otherwise, it becomes remarkably easy to remember that something was replaced while forgetting which boat received it.

Winter Work Is Part of Next Season’s Sailing

There is satisfaction in arriving at the club on a bright spring morning, uncovering the boat and finding that everything is ready.

The steering feels right. The controls run freely. The seat is secure. The camera mount holds firm. The little problem that irritated everyone last year has finally disappeared.

That morning begins with the decisions we make now.

For Champagne, the Toura and Whaly Coyote, the aim is to understand what the season has taught us and turn it into manageable work.

Some jobs need immediate attention. Some deserve a place in the winter budget. Others can wait quite happily.

Your first winter maintenance task: write down the three things that annoyed you most last season. For each one, decide whether it needs an essential repair, a useful improvement or a place on the “can wait” list.

The sailing season may be slowing down, but the work towards a better one has already begun.

Return to the Winter Boat Shed https://pmrsailing.uk/Champagne-A-Rater/The-Winter-Boat-Shed.html