Thursday, 12 February 2026

Boat Covers – The Good, The Bad and The Ugly (…or Make Your Own?)

If you keep a boat on the bank at the Upper Thames Sailing Club like I do, you’ll know that a boat cover is not an optional extra. It’s survival equipment.

After wind, rain, frost, tree sap, bird “presents”, and the occasional Thames flood, I’ve come to see boat covers as characters in their own drama:

The Good
The Bad
And the Very Ugly

Let’s explore.

🟢 The Good – Properly Fitted, Breathable, and Secure

A good cover:

Fits your exact boat (not “something roughly similar”)
Has strong webbing straps under the hull
Uses breathable fabric
Keeps tension without sagging
Has reinforced wear patches

On our RS Toura, a well-fitted cover keeps the cockpit dry, the control lines clean, and the spinnaker halyard free from turning into green biology coursework.

Why it matters:

UV destroys sails
Water fills bailers and freezes
Leaves block drains
Moisture breeds mildew

A good cover saves hours of cleaning and hundreds of pounds in replacement kit.

🟡 The Bad – The “Almost” Cover

You know this one.

Slightly too big
Slightly too small
Slightly cheaper than the proper one
Slightly ripped after the first storm

It pools water.
It flaps.
It chafes gelcoat.
It eventually tears at the corners.

It looked like a bargain.

It wasn’t.

Ours for the Toura was expensive, it just doesn't fit the Toura, even though RS say it is correct.

🔴 The Ugly – Blue Tarp and Bungee Engineering

We’ve all seen it.

A blue tarpaulin.
Elastic bungees.
Half a brick.
Optimism.

It lasts approximately:

One gust
One heavy rain
Or one cold snap

After that, you’re basically storing a paddling pool.

Make Your Own? 🤔

Now here’s the interesting bit.

Boats like the Whaly - It has a different shape to other Whaleys, with the A -frame, so this needs a custom cover.

So… do you make one?

What You’ll Need:

Proper marine acrylic fabric (breathable, UV resistant)
Heavy-duty sewing machine
UV-resistant thread
Reinforcement patches
Webbing and buckles
Patience (industrial quantities)

Pros:

Perfect fit
Choose colour and style
Repairable
Deeply satisfying

Cons:

Time
Cost of materials
Domestic harmony risks if using dining table as sail loft

If you already run workshops, film studio gear, and boat restorations, adding “marine sailmaker” to the list may or may not be wise…

Top Tips from a River Sailor at 65+

Always remove leaves before winter.
Lift the cover slightly so water can’t pool.
Check straps after storms.
Never trust a single bungee.
If in doubt, over-spec it.

A boat cover is not glamorous.
But neither is scrubbing mould out of a cockpit in March.

Blog Closing Thought

We polish hulls.
We tweak rig tension.
We debate handicap numbers.

And then we protect it all with £40 worth of blue plastic.

Perhaps the humble cover deserves more respect.

Wednesday, 11 February 2026

Sailing Class Associations – are they worth joining?

If you sail a dinghy that has a name rather than just a sail number, chances are there’s a class association quietly (or not so quietly) doing things in the background. But are they actually worth joining, or just another subscription draining the sailing kitty?

Short answer: often yes – but it depends what you want from sailing.

Let’s unpack it.

What is a sailing class association?

A class association exists to support a specific type of boat – whether that’s a strict one-design or a development class. Think organised racing, shared knowledge, and a community of people who all sail the same odd-shaped bathtub you do.

They usually look after things like:

Class rules and measurement
National championships and open meetings
Technical advice and tuning guides
Newsletters, forums, and social media groups
Representing the class to sailing authorities and clubs

Reasons joining is worth it

1. You instantly sail faster (even if you don’t mean to)

Most class associations publish setup guides, tuning notes, and race tips. Even river sailors pottering about on a Sunday afternoon pick up speed just by rigging the boat properly.

You don’t need to be chasing silverware to benefit – avoiding a slow setup is half the battle.

2. You’re no longer alone with your boat problems

Split thwart. Mystery leak. Rigging that doesn’t look like the photo.

Class associations are goldmines of:

“Has anyone else had this problem?”
“What’s the modern replacement for this 1970s fitting?”
“Is it supposed to bend like that?”

Someone has definitely already broken the same thing.

3. Events that actually suit your boat

Open meetings and championships run by the class tend to:

Set sensible courses
Attract boats of similar speed and style
Feel friendlier than big mixed-fleet handicap events

For river sailors especially, class events often understand restricted waterways, short beats, and shifty winds far better than generic regattas.

4. You keep the class alive

Classes don’t survive on nostalgia alone. Membership fees help fund:

Websites and results systems
Youth training and loan boats
Promotion to attract new sailors

If nobody joins, the class slowly fades… and then your boat becomes “vintage” whether you wanted it to or not.

5. Social sailing without the awkwardness

Turning up to an event where everyone already sails your boat is surprisingly comforting. Same launch problems, same grumbles, same jokes.

You don’t have to explain why your boat looks the way it does – everyone already knows.

When it might not be worth it

Being honest…

If you only sail very casually, a few times a year
If your boat never races and never will
If the class association is inactive or dormant

In those cases, your money might be better spent on club membership, coaching, or even biscuits for the galley.

River sailors: a special case

On rivers like the Thames, class associations can be especially valuable:

Advice tailored to confined waters
River-friendly tuning setups
Shared experience of short tacks, weed, and bridges

Many associations quietly contain a lot of river wisdom – you just have to join to access it.

So… are they worth it?

If you:

Want to sail your boat better
Like learning from others
Enjoy a sense of shared identity
Care about the future of your class

Then yes – class associations are usually excellent value.

They’re less about elite racing, and more about not reinventing the wheel every time you rig the boat.

Final thought

You don’t have to race every weekend. You don’t have to be competitive.
Sometimes joining a class association is simply saying:

“I quite like this boat – and I’d like it to still exist in ten years’ time.”

And that feels like a pretty good reason.

Tuesday, 10 February 2026

How to Protest Effectively After a Race

(Without falling out with your sailing friends)

Most of us would rather be ashore with a mug of tea than filling in a protest form.
But protests are part of racing – and when done properly, they protect fair sailing rather than ruin the atmosphere.

The key word here is properly.

1. Decide if it’s actually protest-worthy

Before adrenaline does the talking, ask yourself:

Was there a clear breach of the rules?
Did it affect the outcome of the race?
Could it be resolved by a quick word ashore instead?

On a river, things happen fast. Gusts, bends, moored boats, paddleboarders… not every incident needs a red flag moment.

💡 Rule of thumb: If you’re unsure which rule was broken, you’re probably not ready to protest yet.

2. Protest on the water – calmly and clearly

If you are going to protest, do it correctly:

Shout “Protest!” loudly and promptly
Identify the boat (sail number or name)
Display a red flag if required by your class rules

No commentary. No commentary with hand gestures. Just the facts.

This isn’t the time to argue the case – that comes later.

3. Make notes immediately after finishing

As soon as you’re ashore:

Sketch the incident
Note wind direction, stream, relative positions
Write down who was there (witnesses matter)

River racing protests are won and lost on position and timing, not volume.

4. Fill in the form properly

A protest form isn’t a rant – it’s a report.

Keep it:

Factual
Short
Focused on what happened, not what you felt happened

Avoid phrases like:
❌ “They were clearly in the wrong”
❌ “Everyone knows they always do this”

Stick to:
✅ “Boat A was on port tack. Boat B was on starboard tack. No avoiding action was taken.”

5. In the protest room: less drama, more diagrams

When you get to the hearing:

Let the diagram do the talking
Answer the questions you’re asked
Don’t interrupt (even when it’s painful)

Remember: the protest committee is there to establish facts, not crown a villain.

And yes – sometimes you will lose a protest even when you felt right. That’s racing.

6. Keep club spirit intact

The real test of good protesting happens after the decision:

Shake hands
Thank the committee
Go and make the tea

Good clubs survive because sailors can race hard and share a bar afterwards.

Final thought

Protests aren’t about winning arguments – they’re about learning, fairness, and safer racing.
Handled well, they make everyone better sailors… and keep river racing enjoyable for all.

Monday, 9 February 2026

Is it Better to Do Short Tacks or Long Tacks on a River When Racing?

If you read most sailing books, the answer to “short tacks or long tacks?” sounds wonderfully simple.
On a river, it absolutely isn’t.

River racing turns that neat theory on its head. Narrow courses, shifting winds, trees, bends, bridges, moored boats, and banks that seem determined to ruin your airflow all mean the “right” answer changes every few minutes.

So… let’s untangle it.

What We Mean by Short and Long Tacks

Long tacks
Fewer manoeuvres, sailing for longer on each board before tacking.
Short tacks
Frequent tacks, often hopping from bank to bank to chase pressure, shifts, or favourable flow.

On open water, long tacks often win.
On a river, it’s… complicated.

Why Rivers Are Different

River sailing adds three big complications:

1. The Wind Is Rarely Stable

The wind bends with the river, flicks around trees, and accelerates in narrow sections. What was a lifted tack ten seconds ago may already be a header.

2. The Banks Matter

One side is often:

Less sheltered
Better aligned with the wind
Benefiting from a wind bend round a corner

Ignoring the banks is usually expensive.

3. The Stream Exists (Even When You Forget It Does)

Depending on the river and conditions:

One side may have less adverse stream
Eddies near the bank can help or hurt
A “long” tack might quietly drag you backwards

The Case for Long Tacks

Long tacks can be fast when conditions allow.

They work best when:

The wind direction is reasonably steady
One side of the river is clearly favoured
You can hold clean air
You’re confident your boat speed is good

Advantages

Fewer tacks = fewer chances to lose speed
Easier for newer crews
Less disruption to trim and balance

Risks

You may sail straight into a header
You can miss pressure near the opposite bank
If you guess wrong, you’re committed for longer

The Case for Short Tacks

Short tacking is classic river racing — and exhausting.

It shines when:

The wind is shifty and patchy
Pressure bands are narrow
The river bends sharply
You’re racing boats with similar speed

Advantages

You stay closer to the favoured bank
You can respond instantly to shifts
You avoid sailing deep into bad air

Risks

Every tack costs speed
Poor technique is brutally exposed
Crew workload goes up fast

On rivers like the Thames, short tacks are often less about distance and more about damage limitation.

The Real Answer: Follow the Lift, Not the Habit

The biggest mistake is deciding in advance that you’re a “short tack sailor” or a “long tack sailor”.

Good river racers:

Watch the burgee and the water
Notice which boats are climbing to windward
Change plan mid-leg without hesitation

A useful rule of thumb:

If the wind keeps lifting you, stay on the tack.
If it keeps heading you, tack early.

That sounds obvious — but on a river it means being ruthless and flexible.

A Practical River Racing Strategy

Try this on your next beat:

Start with a medium tack
Long enough to assess pressure and shifts, short enough to escape if it goes bad.
Protect the favoured side
Don’t let the fleet pin you on the wrong bank.
Short tack only with purpose
Don’t tack because others are — tack because you expect a gain.
Value boat speed over cleverness
A slow tack every 20 seconds loses more than a slightly longer distance sailed fast.

So… Short or Long Tacks?

On a river:

❌ There is no single correct answer
✅ The best sailors change their answer constantly

If you’re learning, long tacks help you stay tidy and fast.
As confidence grows, short tacks become a tactical weapon — not a reflex.

And sometimes, the fastest move of all…
is not tacking when everyone else does.

Sunday, 8 February 2026

Learning to Cross the Line at the Exact Moment the Klaxon Goes

There’s something magical about a perfect start.
Not early (that sinking feeling).
Not late (watching everyone disappear up the beat).
But crossing the line at full speed, bang on the klaxon, with the flag just dropping.

On a river like the Thames, that moment is less about brute speed and more about timing, judgement, and calm nerves.

Why the Start Matters So Much on a River

On open water you might claw it back. On a river? Not so much.

The first beat is often short
Wind bends and shifts near the banks
Clear air is gold dust

Get the start wrong and you’re immediately fighting dirty wind and bad water.

Step 1: Know Where the Line Really Is

The start line isn’t imaginary – but it is deceptive.

Transit the line before the start using two fixed objects (tree + clubhouse, buoy + pontoon, etc.)
Check it from both directions – rivers distort perspective
Memorise what “on the line” looks like from the helm position, not standing up

If you’re guessing where the line is, you’re already late.

Step 2: Time Your Run (Every Single Start)

This is the biggest upgrade most club sailors can make.

Sail from a fixed point to the line on a close-hauled course
Time how long it takes at normal starting speed
Do it twice. Boats lie. Average doesn’t.

Now you know whether you’re a 60-second, 45-second, or 30-second sailor.

That number becomes your anchor under pressure.

Step 3: Speed Control Beats Position

Being early is worse than being slightly back.

Use gentle S-turns to burn time
Luff briefly rather than stopping dead
Keep the boat moving – stationary boats can’t accelerate on a river

A slow, controlled approach with options beats charging the line and panicking.

Step 4: Use the Flag, Not Just the Sound

The klaxon is helpful. The flag is truth.

Sound can echo or lag
Flags don’t lie
Train yourself to glance up in the final seconds

The goal: the bow crosses as the flag moves, not after you hear it.

Step 5: Accept That Perfection Is Rare

Even very good sailors don’t nail it every time.

If you’re late but fast → keep your lane and sail your race
If you’re early → learn why, don’t beat yourself up
If it all goes wrong → congratulations, you’re learning

Every start teaches you something, even the ugly ones.

The Real Secret

The best starters aren’t aggressive.
They’re prepared.

They know:

where the line is
how long their boat takes
how to control speed under pressure

Do that, and one day you’ll hear the klaxon, see the flag, and realise you’re already going exactly where you want to be.

That moment?
Worth every bad start that came before it.

Saturday, 7 February 2026

Sailing Term: Cunningham

What it is, what it does, and why river sailors really should care

f you sail a dinghy for more than five minutes, someone will eventually say:
“Put a bit more Cunningham on.”

You nod wisely.
You pull a rope.
You hope for the best.

But what is the Cunningham, and why does it matter—especially on a shifty river like the Thames?

So… what is the Cunningham?

The Cunningham is a sail control that adjusts the tension along the luff of the mainsail.
It’s usually a rope or purchase system that pulls the sail downwards at the tack, separate from the halyard.

In plain English:
👉 it controls where the draft (the deepest part of the sail) sits.

What does pulling the Cunningham actually do?

More Cunningham on
- Pulls the draft forward
- Flattens the sail
- Opens the leech
- Reduces power
- Great when it’s windy or gusty
Less Cunningham (or off completely)
- Allows draft to move aft
- Creates a fuller sail
- Adds power
- Ideal in light winds

On rivers, where the wind changes its mind every 30 seconds, this matters more than you might think.

Cunningham vs Halyard – why not just pull harder?

Good question—and one many beginners ask.

The halyard gets the sail up
The Cunningham fine-tunes how the sail works

Once the sail is hoisted properly, the Cunningham lets you adjust sail shape on the fly, without re-hoisting or disturbing other controls.

Why the Cunningham matters on rivers

River sailing is all about:

Short beats
Sudden gusts
Tree-induced chaos
Boats going from under-powered to over-powered in seconds

A quick tweak of the Cunningham:

Depowers the sail without dumping the sheet
Keeps the boat flatter
Maintains flow over the sail
Makes tacks smoother and less frantic

In other words: it’s a thinking sailor’s control.

Beginner tip

If you’re new to sail controls:

Set it light to start with
Watch the wrinkles near the luff
Smooth wrinkles = too tight
A few vertical creases = about right in light airs

And remember: if in doubt, ease it.

Read the full explanation (with diagrams)

👉 https://pmrsailing.uk/sailing-lessons/sailing-terms-list/Cunningham.html

Friday, 6 February 2026

Knot of the Week: Round Turn and Two Half Hitches

If there’s one knot that quietly does a lot of heavy lifting on boats, it’s this one. The round turn and two half hitches is strong, tidy, adjustable, and kind to ropes and cleats. It’s my go-to for tying a dinghy up to a pontoon, ring, or post on the Thames.

Simple to tie. Hard to get wrong. Exactly what you want when the wind’s up and spectators are watching.

What is it good for?

Tying a boat to a ring, post, or pontoon
Mooring where you want security but easy release
Situations where the rope might be under load

The magic is in the round turn — those first wraps take most of the strain, leaving the half hitches just to keep things neat and secure.

How to tie it: simple stages

Stage 1: Make the round turn

Pass the rope around the post or ring twice (or even three times if things are lively).
These turns take the load and stop the rope slipping.

👉 Tip: If you stop here, you can already hold the boat safely while you finish the knot.

Stage 2: First half hitch

Take the free end:

Pass it over and around the standing part
Feed it back through the loop
Pull it snug

That’s your first half hitch.

Stage 3: Second half hitch

Repeat the same move:

Another half hitch
Sitting neatly next to the first
Pull tight

Done. Strong, secure, and easy to undo later.

Why sailors love this knot

✅ Very secure under load
✅ Easy to untie (even after a long sail)
✅ Doesn’t jam or damage the rope
✅ Works brilliantly with wet hands

On a river like the Thames, where stream and wind love to have opinions, this knot just gets on with the job.

Common mistakes to avoid

❌ Too few turns at the start (the round turn matters!)
❌ Half hitches tied the wrong way so they don’t lock neatly
❌ Leaving everything loose instead of snug and tidy