Saturday, 14 February 2026

The Halyard – What It Is and Why It’s So Important

 


The Halyard – What It Is and Why It’s So Important

A halyard is the rope (or line) used to hoist and lower a sail. Without it, your beautifully cut sail would remain a neatly folded picnic blanket at the bottom of the boat.

But in reality, the halyard does far more than just “pull the sail up”.


What Exactly Is a Halyard?

On most modern dinghies and yachts, a halyard:

  • Runs from a cleat or jammer at deck level

  • Up the mast

  • Through a pulley (sheave) at the masthead

  • And down to the head (top corner) of the sail

Common examples:

On some boats (including many training dinghies like your trusty RS Toura), the mainsail may use a luff track and hook system, meaning you tension it once and it stays fixed. On classic Thames boats and larger yachts, halyards are central to sail control.


Why the Halyard Is So Important

1️⃣ It Controls Sail Shape

The halyard doesn’t just lift the sail — it controls luff tension.

Too loose?

  • Wrinkles appear down the front of the sail.

  • The sail becomes too full.

  • The boat feels sluggish.

Too tight?

  • The sail flattens.

  • Power reduces.

  • In strong wind, that might be exactly what you want.

On a shifty stretch of the River Thames at the Upper Thames Sailing Club, halyard tension can be the difference between gliding past another boat… or being politely overtaken.


2️⃣ It Affects Performance Upwind

When sailing close-hauled:

  • Proper halyard tension keeps airflow smooth.

  • It allows the sail to point higher.

  • It reduces drag.

Racers obsess over this.

Cruisers? They should still care.


3️⃣ It Affects Safety

A slipping halyard:

  • Can drop a sail unexpectedly.

  • Can make reefing difficult.

  • Can create chaos in rising wind.

A worn halyard:

  • May chafe through at the masthead.

  • Can fail at the most inconvenient moment.

And yes… it always seems to happen just as you’re trying to look competent.


4️⃣ It Must Be Correctly Cleated

A poorly cleated halyard can:

  • Gradually slip

  • Jam

  • Become impossible to release under load

Good seamanship means:

  • Tidy coils

  • No twists

  • Regular inspection for chafe

  • Checking the sheaves at the masthead


Materials Matter

Older halyards were natural fibre.
Modern halyards are typically:

Low stretch = consistent sail shape = better performance.


River Sailing Perspective

On a narrow river like the Thames:

  • You tack frequently.

  • Gusts are unpredictable.

  • Acceleration out of tacks matters.

That means halyard tension becomes surprisingly important, even if you’re “just learning”.

When I first started sailing at 65+, I thought:

“It’s up. That’ll do.”

Now?
I check luff tension every time we launch.

Progress.

More at https://pmrsailing.uk/sailing-lessons/sailing-terms-list/Halyard.html

Friday, 13 February 2026

Knot of the Week: The Figure of Eight Knot

 

Knot of the Week: The Figure of Eight Knot

If there is one knot every sailor should be able to tie without thinking (even when cold, wet, and being shouted at from the bank), it is the Figure of Eight Knot.

When I started learning to sail at the Upper Thames Sailing Club, this was one of the first knots I was taught. It’s simple, secure, easy to untie — and it stops your sheets disappearing through blocks at the most inconvenient moment possible.


🔹 What Is the Figure of Eight Knot?

The Figure of Eight (sometimes called a “Figure 8 stopper”) is a stopper knot.

Its main job?
👉 To stop a rope running out of a block, cleat, or fairlead.

It’s neater and more secure than tying an overhand knot, and crucially, it’s much easier to undo after it’s been under load.


🔹 How to Tie It (Simple Steps)

Here’s the version I teach beginners — and it works every time:

  1. Hold the working end of the rope.

  2. Form a loop by passing the end over the standing part.

  3. Take the end behind the standing part.

  4. Pass the end forward through the loop you made.

  5. Pull tight — and admire your neat “8” shape.

That’s it.

If it doesn’t look like a number 8, untie it and try again. After five or six attempts, your fingers will remember it forever.


🔹 Why Not Just Tie an Overhand Knot?

Good question.

An overhand knot:

  • Can jam badly under load

  • Is harder to untie

  • Looks less tidy

The Figure of Eight:

  • Is stronger

  • Less likely to jam

  • Is easy to inspect

  • Looks properly “sailor-like”

And looking sailor-like definitely helps confidence.


🔹 Common Uses in Dinghy Sailing

On our RS Toura on the Thames, we use the Figure of Eight:

  • At the end of sheets to stop them running through blocks

  • On control lines

  • On temporary rigging adjustments

  • Anywhere a simple stopper is needed

If you are learning to sail (especially as a slightly older beginner like me!), this is one knot worth practising in front of the television until you can do it in the dark.


🔹 Teaching Tip

When teaching students (whether GCSE Chemistry or sailing!), I’ve learned something important:

Don’t just show it once.

Make them:

  • Tie it

  • Untie it

  • Tie it again

  • Then explain it back to you

Muscle memory plus explanation = mastery.


🔹 Safety Note

Always check:

  • The knot is properly dressed (neatly formed)

  • The tail is long enough

  • It hasn’t worked loose

A poorly tied knot is worse than no knot.


🌊 Final Thought

The Figure of Eight Knot may not be glamorous.
It won’t win you races.
It won’t impress the bar after sailing.

But when your jib sheet stops exactly where it should — and doesn’t vanish through the block — you’ll be quietly grateful you took five minutes to learn it properly.

And that, on a windy Thames afternoon, is a very good feeling indeed.

Thursday, 12 February 2026

Boat Covers – The Good, The Bad and The Ugly (…or Make Your Own?)

 


Boat Covers – The Good, The Bad and The Ugly (…or Make Your Own?)

If you keep a boat on the bank at the Upper Thames Sailing Club like I do, you’ll know that a boat cover is not an optional extra. It’s survival equipment.

After wind, rain, frost, tree sap, bird “presents”, and the occasional Thames flood, I’ve come to see boat covers as characters in their own drama:

Let’s explore.


🟢 The Good – Properly Fitted, Breathable, and Secure

A good cover:

  • Fits your exact boat (not “something roughly similar”)

  • Has strong webbing straps under the hull

  • Uses breathable fabric

  • Keeps tension without sagging

  • Has reinforced wear patches

On our RS Toura, a well-fitted cover keeps the cockpit dry, the control lines clean, and the spinnaker halyard free from turning into green biology coursework.

Why it matters:

  • UV destroys sails

  • Water fills bailers and freezes

  • Leaves block drains

  • Moisture breeds mildew

A good cover saves hours of cleaning and hundreds of pounds in replacement kit.


🟡 The Bad – The “Almost” Cover



You know this one.

  • Slightly too big

  • Slightly too small

  • Slightly cheaper than the proper one

  • Slightly ripped after the first storm

It pools water.
It flaps.
It chafes gelcoat.
It eventually tears at the corners.

It looked like a bargain.

It wasn’t.

Ours for the Toura was expensive, it just doesn't fit the Toura, even though RS say it is correct.


🔴 The Ugly – Blue Tarp and Bungee Engineering

We’ve all seen it.

A blue tarpaulin.
Elastic bungees.
Half a brick.
Optimism.

It lasts approximately:

  • One gust

  • One heavy rain

  • Or one cold snap

After that, you’re basically storing a paddling pool.


Make Your Own? 🤔

Now here’s the interesting bit.

Boats like the Whaly - It has a different shape to other Whaleys, with the A -frame, so this needs a custom cover.

So… do you make one?

What You’ll Need:

Pros:

  • Perfect fit

  • Choose colour and style

  • Repairable

  • Deeply satisfying

Cons:

  • Time

  • Cost of materials

  • Domestic harmony risks if using dining table as sail loft

If you already run workshops, film studio gear, and boat restorations, adding “marine sailmaker” to the list may or may not be wise…


Top Tips from a River Sailor at 65+

  1. Always remove leaves before winter.

  2. Lift the cover slightly so water can’t pool.

  3. Check straps after storms.

  4. Never trust a single bungee.

  5. If in doubt, over-spec it.

A boat cover is not glamorous.
But neither is scrubbing mould out of a cockpit in March.


Blog Closing Thought

We polish hulls.
We tweak rig tension.
We debate handicap numbers.

And then we protect it all with £40 worth of blue plastic.

Perhaps the humble cover deserves more respect.


Wednesday, 11 February 2026

Sailing Class Associations – are they worth joining?

 


Sailing Class Associations – are they worth joining?

If you sail a dinghy that has a name rather than just a sail number, chances are there’s a class association quietly (or not so quietly) doing things in the background. But are they actually worth joining, or just another subscription draining the sailing kitty?

Short answer: often yes – but it depends what you want from sailing.

Let’s unpack it.


What is a sailing class association?

A class association exists to support a specific type of boat – whether that’s a strict one-design or a development class. Think organised racing, shared knowledge, and a community of people who all sail the same odd-shaped bathtub you do.

They usually look after things like:


Reasons joining is worth it

1. You instantly sail faster (even if you don’t mean to)

Most class associations publish setup guides, tuning notes, and race tips. Even river sailors pottering about on a Sunday afternoon pick up speed just by rigging the boat properly.

You don’t need to be chasing silverware to benefit – avoiding a slow setup is half the battle.


2. You’re no longer alone with your boat problems

Split thwart. Mystery leak. Rigging that doesn’t look like the photo.

Class associations are goldmines of:

  • “Has anyone else had this problem?”

  • “What’s the modern replacement for this 1970s fitting?”

  • “Is it supposed to bend like that?”

Someone has definitely already broken the same thing.


3. Events that actually suit your boat

Open meetings and championships run by the class tend to:

  • Set sensible courses

  • Attract boats of similar speed and style

  • Feel friendlier than big mixed-fleet handicap events

For river sailors especially, class events often understand restricted waterways, short beats, and shifty winds far better than generic regattas.


4. You keep the class alive

Classes don’t survive on nostalgia alone. Membership fees help fund:

  • Websites and results systems

  • Youth training and loan boats

  • Promotion to attract new sailors

If nobody joins, the class slowly fades… and then your boat becomes “vintage” whether you wanted it to or not.


5. Social sailing without the awkwardness

Turning up to an event where everyone already sails your boat is surprisingly comforting. Same launch problems, same grumbles, same jokes.

You don’t have to explain why your boat looks the way it does – everyone already knows.


When it might not be worth it

Being honest…

  • If you only sail very casually, a few times a year

  • If your boat never races and never will

  • If the class association is inactive or dormant

In those cases, your money might be better spent on club membership, coaching, or even biscuits for the galley.


River sailors: a special case

On rivers like the Thames, class associations can be especially valuable:

  • Advice tailored to confined waters

  • River-friendly tuning setups

  • Shared experience of short tacks, weed, and bridges

Many associations quietly contain a lot of river wisdom – you just have to join to access it.


So… are they worth it?

If you:

  • Want to sail your boat better

  • Like learning from others

  • Enjoy a sense of shared identity

  • Care about the future of your class

Then yes – class associations are usually excellent value.

They’re less about elite racing, and more about not reinventing the wheel every time you rig the boat.


Final thought

You don’t have to race every weekend. You don’t have to be competitive.
Sometimes joining a class association is simply saying:

“I quite like this boat – and I’d like it to still exist in ten years’ time.”

And that feels like a pretty good reason.

Tuesday, 10 February 2026

How to Protest Effectively After a Race

 


How to Protest Effectively After a Race

(Without falling out with your sailing friends)

Most of us would rather be ashore with a mug of tea than filling in a protest form.
But protests are part of racing – and when done properly, they protect fair sailing rather than ruin the atmosphere.

The key word here is properly.

1. Decide if it’s actually protest-worthy

Before adrenaline does the talking, ask yourself:

  • Was there a clear breach of the rules?

  • Did it affect the outcome of the race?

  • Could it be resolved by a quick word ashore instead?

On a river, things happen fast. Gusts, bends, moored boats, paddleboarders… not every incident needs a red flag moment.

💡 Rule of thumb: If you’re unsure which rule was broken, you’re probably not ready to protest yet.


2. Protest on the water – calmly and clearly

If you are going to protest, do it correctly:

  • Shout “Protest!” loudly and promptly

  • Identify the boat (sail number or name)

  • Display a red flag if required by your class rules

No commentary. No commentary with hand gestures. Just the facts.

This isn’t the time to argue the case – that comes later.


3. Make notes immediately after finishing

As soon as you’re ashore:

  • Sketch the incident

  • Note wind direction, stream, relative positions

  • Write down who was there (witnesses matter)

River racing protests are won and lost on position and timing, not volume.


4. Fill in the form properly

A protest form isn’t a rant – it’s a report.

Keep it:

  • Factual

  • Short

  • Focused on what happened, not what you felt happened

Avoid phrases like:
❌ “They were clearly in the wrong”
❌ “Everyone knows they always do this”

Stick to:
✅ “Boat A was on port tack. Boat B was on starboard tack. No avoiding action was taken.”


5. In the protest room: less drama, more diagrams

When you get to the hearing:

  • Let the diagram do the talking

  • Answer the questions you’re asked

  • Don’t interrupt (even when it’s painful)

Remember: the protest committee is there to establish facts, not crown a villain.

And yes – sometimes you will lose a protest even when you felt right. That’s racing.


6. Keep club spirit intact

The real test of good protesting happens after the decision:

  • Shake hands

  • Thank the committee

  • Go and make the tea

Good clubs survive because sailors can race hard and share a bar afterwards.


Final thought

Protests aren’t about winning arguments – they’re about learning, fairness, and safer racing.
Handled well, they make everyone better sailors… and keep river racing enjoyable for all.

Monday, 9 February 2026

Is it Better to Do Short Tacks or Long Tacks on a River When Racing?

 Is it Better to Do Short Tacks or Long Tacks on a River When Racing?

If you read most sailing books, the answer to “short tacks or long tacks?” sounds wonderfully simple.
On a river, it absolutely isn’t.

River racing turns that neat theory on its head. Narrow courses, shifting winds, trees, bends, bridges, moored boats, and banks that seem determined to ruin your airflow all mean the “right” answer changes every few minutes.

So… let’s untangle it.


What We Mean by Short and Long Tacks

  • Long tacks
    Fewer manoeuvres, sailing for longer on each board before tacking.

  • Short tacks
    Frequent tacks, often hopping from bank to bank to chase pressure, shifts, or favourable flow.

On open water, long tacks often win.
On a river, it’s… complicated.


Why Rivers Are Different

River sailing adds three big complications:

1. The Wind Is Rarely Stable

The wind bends with the river, flicks around trees, and accelerates in narrow sections. What was a lifted tack ten seconds ago may already be a header.

2. The Banks Matter

One side is often:

  • Less sheltered

  • Better aligned with the wind

  • Benefiting from a wind bend round a corner

Ignoring the banks is usually expensive.

3. The Stream Exists (Even When You Forget It Does)

Depending on the river and conditions:

  • One side may have less adverse stream

  • Eddies near the bank can help or hurt

  • A “long” tack might quietly drag you backwards


The Case for Long Tacks

Long tacks can be fast when conditions allow.

They work best when:

  • The wind direction is reasonably steady

  • One side of the river is clearly favoured

  • You can hold clean air

  • You’re confident your boat speed is good

Advantages

  • Fewer tacks = fewer chances to lose speed

  • Easier for newer crews

  • Less disruption to trim and balance

Risks

  • You may sail straight into a header

  • You can miss pressure near the opposite bank

  • If you guess wrong, you’re committed for longer


The Case for Short Tacks

Short tacking is classic river racing — and exhausting.

It shines when:

  • The wind is shifty and patchy

  • Pressure bands are narrow

  • The river bends sharply

  • You’re racing boats with similar speed

Advantages

  • You stay closer to the favoured bank

  • You can respond instantly to shifts

  • You avoid sailing deep into bad air

Risks

  • Every tack costs speed

  • Poor technique is brutally exposed

  • Crew workload goes up fast

On rivers like the Thames, short tacks are often less about distance and more about damage limitation.


The Real Answer: Follow the Lift, Not the Habit

The biggest mistake is deciding in advance that you’re a “short tack sailor” or a “long tack sailor”.

Good river racers:

  • Watch the burgee and the water

  • Notice which boats are climbing to windward

  • Change plan mid-leg without hesitation

A useful rule of thumb:

If the wind keeps lifting you, stay on the tack.
If it keeps heading you, tack early.

That sounds obvious — but on a river it means being ruthless and flexible.


A Practical River Racing Strategy

Try this on your next beat:

  1. Start with a medium tack
    Long enough to assess pressure and shifts, short enough to escape if it goes bad.

  2. Protect the favoured side
    Don’t let the fleet pin you on the wrong bank.

  3. Short tack only with purpose
    Don’t tack because others are — tack because you expect a gain.

  4. Value boat speed over cleverness
    A slow tack every 20 seconds loses more than a slightly longer distance sailed fast.


So… Short or Long Tacks?

On a river:

  • ❌ There is no single correct answer

  • ✅ The best sailors change their answer constantly

If you’re learning, long tacks help you stay tidy and fast.
As confidence grows, short tacks become a tactical weapon — not a reflex.

And sometimes, the fastest move of all…
is not tacking when everyone else does.


Sunday, 8 February 2026

Learning to Cross the Line at the Exact Moment the Klaxon Goes

 

Learning to Cross the Line at the Exact Moment the Klaxon Goes

There’s something magical about a perfect start.
Not early (that sinking feeling).
Not late (watching everyone disappear up the beat).
But crossing the line at full speed, bang on the klaxon, with the flag just dropping.

On a river like the Thames, that moment is less about brute speed and more about timing, judgement, and calm nerves.


Why the Start Matters So Much on a River

On open water you might claw it back. On a river? Not so much.

  • The first beat is often short

  • Wind bends and shifts near the banks

  • Clear air is gold dust

Get the start wrong and you’re immediately fighting dirty wind and bad water.


Step 1: Know Where the Line Really Is

The start line isn’t imaginary – but it is deceptive.

  • Transit the line before the start using two fixed objects (tree + clubhouse, buoy + pontoon, etc.)

  • Check it from both directionsrivers distort perspective

  • Memorise what “on the line” looks like from the helm position, not standing up

If you’re guessing where the line is, you’re already late.


Step 2: Time Your Run (Every Single Start)

This is the biggest upgrade most club sailors can make.

  • Sail from a fixed point to the line on a close-hauled course

  • Time how long it takes at normal starting speed

  • Do it twice. Boats lie. Average doesn’t.

Now you know whether you’re a 60-second, 45-second, or 30-second sailor.

That number becomes your anchor under pressure.


Step 3: Speed Control Beats Position

Being early is worse than being slightly back.

  • Use gentle S-turns to burn time

  • Luff briefly rather than stopping dead

  • Keep the boat moving – stationary boats can’t accelerate on a river

A slow, controlled approach with options beats charging the line and panicking.


Step 4: Use the Flag, Not Just the Sound

The klaxon is helpful. The flag is truth.

  • Sound can echo or lag

  • Flags don’t lie

  • Train yourself to glance up in the final seconds

The goal: the bow crosses as the flag moves, not after you hear it.


Step 5: Accept That Perfection Is Rare

Even very good sailors don’t nail it every time.

  • If you’re late but fast → keep your lane and sail your race

  • If you’re early → learn why, don’t beat yourself up

  • If it all goes wrong → congratulations, you’re learning

Every start teaches you something, even the ugly ones.


The Real Secret

The best starters aren’t aggressive.
They’re prepared.

They know:

  • where the line is

  • how long their boat takes

  • how to control speed under pressure

Do that, and one day you’ll hear the klaxon, see the flag, and realise you’re already going exactly where you want to be.

That moment?
Worth every bad start that came before it. 

The Halyard – What It Is and Why It’s So Important

  The Halyard – What It Is and Why It’s So Important If you’ve ever watched someone “pull the rope to get the sail up”, you’ve already seen ...