Thursday, 24 September 2026

Why Small Adjustments Often Beat Big Ones The fastest sail adjustment may be only two centimetres

 

Why Small Adjustments Often Beat Big Ones

The fastest sail adjustment may be only two centimetres

One of the easiest habits to develop when learning to sail is to think of sail trim as a series of fairly large decisions.

Pull the mainsheet in.

Ease it out.

Pull the jib tighter.

Let it off.

Then leave everything alone until something obviously changes.

But watch an experienced sailor closely and you may notice something quite different.

Their hands are rarely completely inactive.

The mainsheet may move only a few centimetres. The jib sheet may be eased almost imperceptibly. The helm moves through tiny angles rather than sweeping dramatically from side to side. Body weight shifts slightly before the boat heels rather than significantly afterwards.

Nothing looks spectacular.

Yet all those tiny corrections add up.

Good sailors do not simply trim the sails. They trim them continuously.

And sometimes the adjustment that makes the boat faster really is only two centimetres.


Sailing Is Happening in a Constantly Changing Environment

It is tempting to imagine that if the wind is blowing at 10 knots from the west, we can set the sails correctly and then forget about them.

Unfortunately, the wind does not cooperate.

Even on what appears to be a steady day, the boat is continually experiencing small changes in:

  • wind speed;

  • wind direction;

  • waves;

  • boat speed;

  • apparent wind;

  • heel;

  • crew position;

  • course.

On an inland river such as the Thames, those changes can be particularly noticeable.

Trees, buildings, bends in the river and surrounding terrain disturb the airflow. One moment the boat may be sailing in reasonable pressure; a few seconds later it reaches a softer patch. Then a gust arrives from a slightly different direction.

The theoretically perfect sail position from ten seconds ago may no longer be the perfect position now.

That does not necessarily mean moving the sheet half a metre.

Often it means moving it just enough.


The Problem with the "Set It and Forget It" Approach

Imagine sailing close-hauled with the jib apparently set correctly.

The tell-tales are streaming nicely.

You therefore decide that the sail is "right".

Thirty seconds later the wind increases slightly.

The boat accelerates.

Its apparent wind changes.

Perhaps the boat also heels a little more.

The jib that was correctly trimmed may now need a tiny adjustment.

If you do nothing, the difference may not be dramatic enough to make the sail flap.

That is precisely why the problem is easy to miss.

A badly trimmed sail tells you immediately.

It flaps.

A slightly badly trimmed sail can remain beautifully full while quietly costing you speed.

That is much more dangerous from a performance point of view.


Two Centimetres Can Matter

Consider the sheet running through a block.

Moving your hand only two centimetres may alter the leech tension slightly.

That changes the twist in the sail.

That changes the angle at which different parts of the sail meet the airflow.

The effect may be subtle, but sailing quickly is often about accumulating subtle advantages.

Two centimetres here.

A tiny steering correction there.

A slight shift of body weight.

Another small ease of the sheet as the gust arrives.

None individually transforms the boat.

Together they can make the boat feel completely different.

This is one reason experienced sailors sometimes appear to be doing remarkably little.

They are not inactive.

They are simply making their corrections early enough and small enough that you hardly notice them.


Think of Trim as Continuous Rather Than Fixed

A useful change in thinking is to stop asking:

"Is my sail trimmed correctly?"

Instead ask:

"Is my sail trimmed correctly now?"

That final word changes everything.

Sail trim is not a setting.

It is a process.

The same applies to steering and balance.

You should not necessarily be making frantic adjustments every second. Over-control is almost as bad as no control.

The objective is to develop a continuous feedback loop:

Look - feel - adjust - observe.

Then repeat it.


Look

Look at the clues around you.

For example:

  • What are the tell-tales doing?

  • Is the leeward tell-tale beginning to lift?

  • Has the windward tell-tale started to flicker?

  • Is the leech opening too far?

  • Is a gust approaching?

  • Has the boat started to heel?

  • Has another boat nearby suddenly accelerated?

  • Has the water ahead become darker?

  • Are you entering a sheltered patch near the bank?

The clues often appear before the boat noticeably slows.


Feel

The boat also communicates through feel.

You may notice:

  • increasing pressure in the tiller;

  • reduced pressure in the sheet;

  • increasing heel;

  • the boat accelerating;

  • the boat beginning to feel sluggish;

  • the rudder needing more effort;

  • the crew suddenly needing to hike harder.

These are not isolated sensations.

They are information.

As I discussed in my article about feeling the helm, the tiller itself can act almost like a diagnostic instrument.

The sheets do something similar.

The load on the sheet tells you a great deal about what the sails are experiencing.


Adjust

Now make the smallest useful correction.

That might mean:

  • easing 2 cm of mainsheet;

  • trimming 3 cm of jib;

  • moving your weight slightly;

  • bearing away by a degree or two;

  • heading up very slightly;

  • allowing the boat to accelerate before trimming again.

Then observe what happened.

Did the boat accelerate?

Did the heel reduce?

Did the tell-tales stabilise?

Did the helm become lighter?

If so, you have learned something.


The Sheet Is Not an On-Off Control

Beginners often treat sheets rather like switches.

IN

or

OUT

But a sheet is really a continuously variable control.

Think about the accelerator pedal in a car.

We do not normally drive by pressing the accelerator to the floor, then taking our foot completely off, then pressing it fully again.

We make tiny adjustments.

A sailor should begin to develop the same relationship with the sheets.

You may pull the jib in slightly as the boat accelerates.

Then ease it a fraction as the pressure increases.

Then trim again as the gust passes.

The movement might be hardly visible.

But the sail is being continually matched to the conditions.


A Practical Example: Sailing Into a Gust

Imagine we are sailing close-hauled.

Ahead of us is a darker patch on the water.

We have already recognised it as a gust.

A less experienced crew may wait until the gust hits.

The boat suddenly heels.

The helm becomes heavy.

Someone then releases a large amount of mainsheet.

The boat rolls upright.

The sheet is hauled back in.

There has been a lot of activity.

But much of it happened too late.

A more experienced sailor may handle exactly the same gust differently.

Before the gust reaches the boat:

  • the crew prepares to move slightly further out;

  • the helm anticipates the extra pressure;

  • the mainsheet is ready to be eased;

  • everyone is watching the water.

The gust arrives.

Perhaps only a small amount of sheet is eased.

The boat remains flatter.

It accelerates.

As the gust passes, the sheet is trimmed back in.

The entire event may involve only a few centimetres of sheet movement.

That is continuous trim rather than emergency trim.


Large Corrections Often Mean We Reacted Too Late

This is an interesting principle that applies far beyond sail trim.

If you regularly have to make very large corrections, ask yourself why.

The answer may be that you are reacting to what has already happened rather than anticipating what is about to happen.

If the boat has already heeled dramatically, you need a large correction.

If you recognise the approaching gust beforehand, the required correction may be tiny.

If the jib has already started flogging violently, you need a large trim.

If you notice the first movement of the tell-tale, you may need only a few centimetres.

It is rather like steering.

A boat allowed to wander well away from its intended course needs a substantial rudder movement.

A boat being continually monitored usually needs only tiny tiller movements.

Large corrections often cure mistakes. Small corrections often prevent them.


The Jib Is Particularly Interesting

When I crew, I often think of the jib as one of the boat's most important speed controls.

It is far more than simply a smaller sail at the front.

The airflow around the jib interacts with the mainsail, and changes in jib trim can alter the behaviour of the whole sail plan.

It is therefore worth developing the habit of keeping the sheet in your hand rather than treating the job as finished once the sail has been pulled in.

Watch the tell-tales.

Feel the load.

Look ahead at the water.

Make a tiny adjustment.

Then see what happens.

On some occasions you might ease several centimetres and feel the boat immediately accelerate.

That is one of the most satisfying pieces of feedback a sailor can receive.

You have not changed the wind.

You have simply made better use of it.


Champagne Makes This Especially Interesting

Our A-Rater Champagne is an excellent boat on which to observe this principle.

A long, narrow, powerful boat can make changes in trim surprisingly obvious.

There are substantial loads in the sheets, blocks and rig, yet the difference between a good setting and a very good setting may still involve remarkably little movement.

It also makes wonderful material for photography and video.

A wide photograph of a sailing boat does not necessarily reveal what the crew are actually doing.

A close-up might.

Film the sheet passing through the block.

Watch a hand ease perhaps three centimetres.

Watch the boat's response.

Look at the tell-tales immediately afterwards.

That tiny sequence can explain more about good sail trim than a photograph of somebody hauling dramatically on a sheet.


Try a Simple Exercise

The next time you are sailing in moderate conditions, try deliberately experimenting.

Get the boat settled on a steady course.

Look carefully at:

  • boat speed;

  • heel;

  • tell-tales;

  • helm pressure;

  • sheet load.

Now ease the sheet just 2 or 3 cm.

Not 30 cm.

Watch.

What changed?

Perhaps nothing obvious happened.

Try another tiny amount.

Does the boat feel freer?

Did it accelerate?

Did the leech open slightly?

Then trim it back.

Compare the result.

Do the same thing with the jib.

The objective is not merely to find the "correct" position.

It is to train yourself to recognise how sensitive the boat is to surprisingly small changes.


Use Your Fingers as a Measuring Tool

There is another very simple practical technique.

Rather than thinking in metres of rope, start thinking in hand-sized increments.

One finger width.

Two fingers.

A palm width.

You quickly develop a physical feel for adjustment.

For example:

"Ease two fingers."

"Trim one hand."

That can be much more useful aboard a boat than vague instructions such as:

"Let it out a bit."

It also encourages smaller, controlled changes.


Watch the Tell-Tales While Someone Else Adjusts

This makes an excellent coaching exercise.

One person concentrates on steering.

Another controls the jib.

Make very small sheet adjustments while somebody else watches the tell-tales continuously.

Try moving the sheet only a few centimetres at a time.

You begin to see how surprisingly sensitive airflow can be.

The exercise becomes even more effective if somebody films a close-up of the tell-tales.

Later, slow the video down.

You may see changes that were difficult to recognise in real time.


Continuous Trim Does Not Mean Constant Fiddling

There is an important distinction here.

Continuous awareness does not mean constantly yanking ropes backwards and forwards.

That can be slower.

Every unnecessary movement disturbs the sail.

Every large steering movement increases rudder drag.

Every unnecessary weight movement can upset the balance of the boat.

The aim is not constant movement.

The aim is constant attention.

Sometimes the best adjustment is no adjustment at all.

But it should be a conscious decision.

You have looked.

You have felt.

Everything is working.

Leave it alone.


Small Helm Movements Matter Too

The same principle applies to the tiller.

A rudder produces drag.

Large rudder angles produce considerably more drag.

If the boat is continually wandering left and right and being corrected with large tiller movements, energy is being wasted.

A well-balanced boat often needs surprisingly small steering inputs.

That connects sail trim, boat balance and steering.

If the boat develops excessive weather helm, the solution may not simply be to pull harder on the tiller.

Perhaps the boat is heeling too much.

Perhaps the mainsail is too tight.

Perhaps the crew weight needs adjusting.

Correct the cause and the steering correction becomes smaller.

Again, small adjustments are usually telling us that the whole boat is working together.


Small Weight Movements Can Be Just as Important

Imagine the wind increases slightly.

The boat begins to heel.

You could wait.

Eventually the heel becomes obvious and somebody moves dramatically across the boat.

But moving a little earlier may mean moving much less.

A small shift of upper-body weight can sometimes be enough.

Likewise, in very light winds, moving only a few centimetres may improve fore-and-aft trim or help the boat remain balanced.

Experienced sailors become extremely sensitive to this.

They rarely wait until the boat is obviously wrong.

They keep it close to right.


The Boat Should Look Surprisingly Calm

This leads to something I increasingly notice when watching very good sailors.

A fast boat does not necessarily look busy.

Often it looks calm.

The crew are moving.

The sheets are moving.

The helm is steering.

But nothing is frantic.

Corrections happen early.

The boat remains balanced.

The sails remain attached to the airflow.

The rudder stays close to the centreline.

The hull keeps moving forwards.

Compare that with a boat where everything happens dramatically:

sheet in;

sheet out;

huge rudder movement;

crew scrambling across the boat;

boat heeling;

boat rolling upright;

sheet hauled back again.

There may be much more visible activity but considerably less useful forward motion.


Anticipation Changes Everything

This is where several of the ideas in this series begin to join together.

Read the water.

If you can see the gust coming, you do not need such a large reaction.

Recognise headers and lifts.

If you notice the wind direction changing early, your response can be smaller.

Feel the helm.

If you detect increasing weather helm before it becomes excessive, you can rebalance the boat.

Keep the boat flat.

If you respond to pressure before the heel becomes dramatic, less energy is wasted.

Trim continuously.

If you notice changes early, two centimetres may really be enough.

These are not separate skills.

They form one larger skill:

awareness.


A Useful Challenge: Sail for Five Minutes Without a Big Correction

Here is an exercise worth trying.

Choose a relatively clear stretch of water and sail normally for five minutes.

Challenge yourself to avoid any unnecessarily large correction.

No sudden half-metre mainsheet movements unless genuinely required.

No huge tiller sweeps.

No dramatic crew movements.

Instead:

  • look further ahead;

  • anticipate gusts;

  • monitor tell-tales;

  • feel sheet pressure;

  • notice heel early;

  • make small adjustments.

You may be surprised by how much calmer the boat becomes.

You may also discover something more interesting.

It may become faster.


The Difference Between Reacting and Sailing

At first, sailing can feel like a sequence of events happening to us.

The wind increases.

We react.

The boat heels.

We react.

The sail flaps.

We react.

The boat turns.

We react.

As experience develops, that relationship begins to change.

We start looking ahead.

We see the gust.

We recognise the wind shift.

We feel the loading change.

We notice the first degree of heel.

Then we make a small correction before the large one becomes necessary.

That is an important transition.

We stop merely reacting to the boat.

We start sailing it.


The Fastest Adjustment May Be the One Nobody Notices

There is something wonderfully counter-intuitive about sailing.

Speed does not always come from dramatic action.

Sometimes it comes from doing almost nothing.

Ease two centimetres.

Move your shoulders.

Turn the tiller a fraction.

Trim again.

Then leave everything alone.

The difference between two boats may not be that one crew is working vastly harder.

It may simply be that one crew is noticing changes sooner.

And because they notice sooner, their corrections can remain smaller.

That is why the next time you find yourself hauling a metre of sheet, it is worth asking:

Could I have recognised the change earlier and moved only ten centimetres?

And eventually:

Could I have moved only two?

Because in sailing, the biggest improvement may sometimes come from making a much smaller adjustment.

Return to pmrsailing.uk https://pmrsailing.uk/sailing-lessons/How-to-sail-better.html

Tuesday, 22 September 2026

Sail Trim Is Not “Pull It In Until It Looks Right”

 


Sail Trim Is Not “Pull It In Until It Looks Right”

Two boats can have identical sails and completely different speeds.

Put two identical dinghies side by side, give them the same sails, the same wind and broadly similar crews, and one can gradually sail away from the other.

Nothing obvious appears to be wrong.

Both boats are pointing in roughly the same direction.

Both mainsails are full.

Both jibs look reasonably tidy.

Neither crew appears to be making a terrible mistake.

And yet one boat is simply faster.

Quite often, the difference is sail trim.

One crew has pulled the sheets in until the sails look approximately right.

The other crew is constantly asking:

What is the air actually doing?

That is a very different approach to sailing.

For me, this becomes particularly noticeable when crewing an RS Toura or sailing aboard the A-Rater Champagne. Working the jib can sometimes feel rather like operating the boat's turbocharger. A surprisingly small adjustment can change the power, acceleration, heel and even the feel of the helm.

Sail trim is not something you set once.

It is something you continually adjust.


A Sail Is an Aerodynamic Surface

A sail is not simply a piece of cloth that catches the wind.

When a sailing boat is reaching or sailing upwind, the sails behave much more like aerodynamic wings.

Air flows around both sides of the sail and the curved shape helps generate a force that can be resolved into:

  • a component driving the boat forwards;

  • a sideways component resisted by the centreboard, keel or hull.

For that process to work efficiently, the airflow has to remain reasonably well attached to the sail.

If the sheet is too loose, the sail may flap or the airflow around it may be poorly organised.

But pulling it in too far does not solve the problem.

An over-sheeted sail can also disturb the airflow.

This is one of the first important lessons in sail trim:

Tighter does not automatically mean faster.


The Beginner's Natural Instinct

When learning to sail, there is a natural tendency to pull a sail in until it stops flapping.

That is actually a perfectly sensible starting point.

Ease the sail until it begins to luff.

Then pull it back in until the luff just disappears.

For a beginner, that simple technique works remarkably well.

The problem comes when we unconsciously add another 10 or 20 centimetres of sheet because the sail somehow looks more secure.

The sail becomes flatter against the centreline of the boat.

It looks neat.

It looks powerful.

But it may actually be slower.

The sail is not there to look tidy.

It is there to manage airflow.


Tell-Tales: Tiny Pieces of Wool That Tell a Big Story

One of the simplest ways of finding out what the air is doing is to look at the tell-tales.

These small pieces of wool, ribbon or lightweight material can give an immediate indication of the airflow over the sail.

On a jib there are commonly tell-tales positioned on both sides of the sail near the luff.

When sailing upwind efficiently, we generally want the tell-tales on both sides streaming backwards reasonably smoothly.

If the windward tell-tale rises repeatedly, the boat may be sailing too close to the wind for the current trim.

The helm may need to bear away slightly, or the sail trim may need reconsidering.

If the leeward tell-tale is struggling or lifting, the sail may be over-sheeted for the angle of sailing.

Again, the important lesson is not simply to memorise a rule.

It is to realise that the tell-tales are showing us what the airflow is doing.

They are miniature aerodynamic instruments.


Stop Looking Only at the Bottom of the Sail

There is another trap.

Many sailors look at the lower part of the sail because it is conveniently at eye level.

But conditions several metres above the water can be quite different.

The upper part of the sail matters enormously.

This brings us to one of the most important concepts in sail trim:

Twist

Look up the leech of a well-trimmed sail.

The upper part of the sail will normally be angled differently from the lower section.

The sail is effectively twisted from bottom to top.

This is deliberate.

The wind experienced by the upper part of the sail is not exactly the same as the wind experienced lower down.

Wind speed generally increases with height above the water because the surface slows the air nearest to it.

The apparent wind experienced by different parts of the sail can therefore vary.

If we tried to force every part of the sail to exactly the same angle, some parts might work efficiently while others stalled.

Allowing the sail to twist lets different heights of the sail operate at more appropriate angles to the local airflow.


Watch the Leech

The leech is the trailing edge of the sail.

Its shape can tell us a great deal about trim.

A leech that is pulled excessively tight can become hooked towards the centreline of the boat.

That can interfere with the air trying to leave the sail.

Instead of producing clean flow, we can create extra drag.

On the mainsail, tell-tales near the leech can be particularly useful.

If the upper tell-tale is permanently disappearing behind the sail rather than streaming aft, the top of the sail may be too closed.

The answer may be to allow the leech to open slightly.

That could involve easing the mainsheet or altering the other sail controls available on the boat.

Again, there is no magic sheet position.

We look at what the sail is telling us.


The Mainsheet Does More Than Move the Boom

Beginners often think of the mainsheet as a simple control:

Pull it in and the boom comes in.

That is true.

But it is only part of the story.

The mainsheet can also affect leech tension and therefore the amount of twist in the mainsail.

On many dinghies, pulling the mainsheet hard while sailing close-hauled does not simply move the boom towards the centreline.

It also pulls downwards.

That can tighten the leech.

The upper part of the sail closes.

Sometimes that is exactly what is required.

Sometimes it is the reason the boat suddenly feels heavy, slow and difficult to steer.

This is why blindly pulling harder can be counterproductive.


The Jib Sheet Is Not Just an On-Off Control

The jib deserves just as much attention.

In some ways, I think of the jib as the boat's turbocharger.

That description is not technically literal, of course, but it captures the sensation remarkably well.

Trim the jib correctly and the boat suddenly feels as though it wants to accelerate.

Trim it badly and the whole rig can feel lifeless.

When I am working the jib, particularly in changing inland conditions, I rarely want to think:

"The sheet belongs here."

Instead I want to think:

"Does the sheet belong here now?"

There is an important difference.

A gust arrives.

The boat accelerates.

The apparent wind changes.

The boat heels.

The helm responds.

And the correct sheet position can change with it.


The Main and Jib Work Together

It is tempting to think of the jib and mainsail as two separate engines.

They are not.

The airflow around one affects the other.

The slot between the jib and mainsail is particularly important when sailing upwind.

Pull the jib in much too hard and the gap can become too restricted.

The airflow through the slot may be compromised and the back of the mainsail may show signs of disturbed flow.

Ease the jib too far and it may no longer be operating effectively.

The aim is not to create the smallest possible gap between the sails.

The aim is to create an efficient aerodynamic system.

This is where a crew trimming the jib becomes much more than somebody holding a rope.

The jib trimmer can be continuously watching:

  • luff tell-tales;

  • leech shape;

  • heel;

  • changes in wind strength;

  • the relationship between jib and mainsail;

  • acceleration after a gust or tack.

That information can then be passed to the helm.

On a larger or faster boat, this teamwork becomes increasingly important.


Light Winds: Do Not Strangle the Sails

Light wind creates a particularly interesting problem.

The temptation is often to pull everything tight in an attempt to extract every last bit of power.

That can be exactly the wrong thing to do.

In very light conditions there is little energy available in the airflow.

A sail that is over-sheeted can make it difficult for that weak airflow to remain attached.

The boat can feel sticky and reluctant to accelerate.

Often the better approach is to allow the sails to breathe.

Ease slightly.

Maintain shape.

Keep the boat moving smoothly.

Avoid unnecessary rudder movements.

And watch the tell-tales carefully.

A centimetre or two of sheet movement can sometimes make a surprising difference.

This is also why stopping the boat in light winds is so costly.

Once moving, the boat creates its own apparent wind.

Lose that motion and the entire aerodynamic system weakens.


Moderate Winds: The Boat Comes Alive

Moderate winds can make trimming easier because there is enough airflow for the tell-tales to respond clearly and enough power for changes to become noticeable.

This is an excellent time to experiment.

Try easing the jib very slightly.

What happens to boat speed?

What happens to pointing?

What happens to heel?

Pull it back in.

Does the boat feel more powerful?

Does the helm become heavier?

Does the leeward tell-tale start misbehaving?

Rather than thinking of sheet position as right or wrong, think of it as an experiment.

Change something. Observe the result.

That is one of the quickest ways to become a better sailor.


Stronger Winds: Power Is No Longer the Only Objective

Once the wind increases, the problem changes.

We may already have more power than we can efficiently use.

Now sail trim becomes partly about depowering.

If the boat is heeling excessively, simply fighting harder against it is not necessarily the fastest solution.

We can change the sail trim.

The sails can be flattened.

The leech can be allowed to open.

The sheet can be eased during stronger gusts.

The objective is to keep the boat driving rather than allowing it to become overloaded.

This connects directly with another important sailing principle:

Keeping the boat reasonably flat is usually fast.

Excessive heel can increase drag, reduce centreboard efficiency and produce heavy weather helm.

Correct sail trim helps prevent that situation before it develops.


The Gust Arrives — Your Trim May Need to Change

Imagine we are sailing upwind and see a dark gust line approaching across the water.

Before the gust arrives, everything may be nicely balanced.

Then the pressure hits.

The sails suddenly produce more force.

The boat heels.

The helm loads up.

What should happen?

Perhaps the crew moves weight.

Perhaps the mainsheet is eased.

Perhaps the jib is adjusted.

Perhaps the helm changes course slightly.

The exact response depends on the boat and the conditions.

But the important point is this:

The trim that was correct five seconds ago may not be correct now.

That is why good sail trim is active rather than static.


Then the Gust Passes

The reverse problem occurs when the gust disappears.

Imagine easing the sails during a strong puff and then forgetting to trim them again.

The pressure falls.

The boat becomes underpowered.

Speed drops.

Someone wonders where all the performance went.

The answer may simply be that the sails are still trimmed for the gust that disappeared ten seconds ago.

This constant cycle is especially noticeable when sailing inland.

The wind over rivers and small lakes is rarely completely steady.

Trees, buildings, banks and surrounding terrain all influence the airflow.

The crew may therefore be trimming frequently.

Not wildly.

Not constantly hauling metres of rope.

Often the movements are surprisingly small.

But those small corrections accumulate.


Champagne Makes This Particularly Interesting

The A-Rater Champagne makes sail trim especially fascinating.

An A-Rater is a very different proposition from a conventional training dinghy.

Its long, fast hull and substantial rig mean that changes in power can become immediately noticeable.

There is also considerably more going on than simply asking whether the sail is flapping.

When the boat accelerates, the apparent wind changes.

When the apparent wind changes, the ideal sail trim changes.

When the sail trim changes, the boat may accelerate again.

So there is a feedback loop.

That can make working the jib enormously rewarding.

When everything comes together, the boat does not merely feel as though somebody has pulled another rope.

It feels as though the whole boat has suddenly been released.

That is the sensation behind my description of the jib as the turbocharger.


The RS Toura Teaches the Same Lesson

The RS Toura offers the same underlying lesson in a rather different way.

It is an excellent platform for noticing how coordinated crew work affects the boat.

The helm can concentrate on:

  • course;

  • balance;

  • wind shifts;

  • other boats.

The crew can watch:

  • jib tell-tales;

  • sheet tension;

  • approaching gusts;

  • boat heel;

  • sail shape.

Instead of waiting for the helm to say:

"Can you ease the jib?"

the crew begins to anticipate the requirement.

That is when sailing starts becoming genuinely collaborative.

The boat begins to feel as though it is being sailed by a team rather than by one person steering while everybody else follows instructions.


A Simple Exercise: Deliberately Get It Wrong

One of the best ways to learn sail trim is deliberately to make mistakes.

In suitable conditions and with plenty of clear water, sail on a steady course.

First, pull the jib sheet too tight.

Observe:

  • the tell-tales;

  • boat speed;

  • heel;

  • helm feel.

Then ease it too far.

Observe the same things.

Finally, gradually trim towards the point where the airflow looks best and the boat feels fastest.

Do the same with the mainsail.

This is extremely valuable because students begin to associate what they see with what they feel.

A textbook can tell you that a sail is over-sheeted.

Actually experiencing an over-sheeted sail teaches the lesson much more effectively.


Use the Boat as an Instrument

Eventually, you should not need to stare at the sails every second.

The boat itself begins providing clues.

Has the tiller suddenly become heavy?

Has the boat stopped accelerating?

Has the heel increased?

Has the bow started making more wash without any obvious increase in speed?

Has the boat suddenly felt lively after a tiny ease of the jib?

These are all pieces of information.

Good sailors gradually combine:

what they see + what they feel + what the tell-tales show + what the boat does

That is sail trim.


Do Not Chase Perfection Every Second

There is another important point, particularly for sailors who are still learning.

You do not need to spend the entire sail frantically moving sheets by millimetres.

The aim is not nervous constant adjustment.

It is awareness.

If the wind is steady and the boat feels fast, leave things alone.

When the conditions change, respond.

The better you become, the earlier you notice those changes.

You may see the gust on the water.

You may feel the pressure change through the sheet.

You may notice a tell-tale beginning to lift.

Eventually the adjustment happens almost automatically.


Sail Trim Is Really Airflow Management

The phrase “trim the sails” can make the process sound like tidying them up.

But that is not really what we are doing.

We are controlling aerodynamic surfaces.

We are trying to maintain useful airflow.

We are adjusting power.

We are controlling heel.

We are responding to apparent wind.

And we are balancing several parts of the rig so that they work together rather than against one another.

The mainsheet is not simply a rope that pulls the boom in.

The jib sheet is not simply something that stops the jib flapping.

The tell-tales are not decorative pieces of wool.

And the leech is not just the back edge of the sail.

They are all part of an aerodynamic system.

That is why two boats with identical sails can travel at completely different speeds.

One crew may have pulled the sheets in until everything looks right.

The other crew is still listening to what the sails are telling them.

And very often, that is the boat sailing away.

Return to pmrsailing.uk https://pmrsailing.uk/sailing-lessons/How-to-sail-better.html

Feel the Helm — What the Tiller Is Trying to Tell You


 

Feel the Helm — What the Tiller Is Trying to Tell You

The tiller is constantly telling you whether the boat is balanced.

When we first learn to sail, the tiller is introduced very simply.

Push it one way and the boat turns the other way.

That is perfectly adequate for the first few trips around the river, but as your sailing improves, the tiller becomes something much more interesting.

It becomes a diagnostic instrument.

The pressure you feel through the tiller can tell you about sail trim, heel, crew position, wind strength and the overall balance of the boat.

A good sailor therefore does not simply use the rudder to make the boat go where they want.

They listen to what the helm is telling them.

And sometimes the most important message from the tiller is:

Stop using me so much.


Steering Is Not Free

Every time you move the rudder significantly away from the centreline, you create drag.

A rudder works rather like a small underwater wing. When it is aligned with the flow of water, it produces relatively little resistance.

Turn it through a large angle and it produces a sideways force that turns the boat.

But that force has a price.

Drag.

So although you need the rudder to manoeuvre, constantly swinging the tiller backwards and forwards is effectively applying a small brake over and over again.

This is particularly noticeable in a fast boat.

If you are continually correcting the course with large tiller movements, it is worth asking whether the problem is actually your steering.

Very often it is not.

The boat may be trying to tell you that something else is wrong.


What Is Weather Helm?

Suppose you are sailing upwind.

You hold the tiller lightly and notice that the boat naturally wants to turn towards the wind.

To maintain your course, you need to apply a little pressure to the tiller.

That tendency is called weather helm.

A small amount of weather helm is normally desirable.

It gives the helm some feel, helps the boat naturally turn towards the wind if control is lost, and can make steering feel positive.

But there is an enormous difference between a little weather helm and fighting the tiller continuously.

If you are pulling hard on the tiller just to keep the boat travelling straight, the rudder is probably working too hard.

And that means drag.

The interesting question is not:

"How do I hold the tiller harder?"

It is:

"Why does the boat want to turn?"

That is where the tiller becomes a diagnostic tool.


The Boat Heels — And Suddenly the Helm Becomes Heavy

One of the most common causes of excessive weather helm is too much heel.

Imagine you are sailing comfortably upwind.

A gust arrives.

The boat heels strongly.

At almost exactly the same time, you may feel the tiller load increase and the boat try to turn into the wind.

It is tempting to solve the problem with more rudder.

But the rudder is responding to the problem, not causing it.

The real problem may be that the boat is no longer balanced.

The answer could therefore be to:

ease the mainsail slightly,

move your weight further out,

flatten the boat,

or adjust your course appropriately.

As the boat comes upright, something rather satisfying often happens.

The tiller pressure reduces.

You have not merely made steering easier.

You have removed drag from the system.

This links directly with another important lesson in sailing:

A boat lying dramatically on its side is not necessarily a fast boat.

Often the flatter boat is the quicker one.


The Helm Can Tell You About Sail Trim

Suppose you are sailing along and the helm gradually becomes heavier.

Nothing obvious has changed.

You can still steer the boat.

But the tiller seems to be saying:

"Something isn't quite right."

Look around.

Has the wind increased?

Is the mainsail too powerful?

Has the boat started heeling?

Has the crew moved?

Has the jib trim changed?

Have you altered your point of sail without altering the sails?

The helm is often the symptom through which several other problems become visible.

That is why experienced sailors sometimes appear to make small sail or weight adjustments before anything dramatic has happened.

They may have felt the change through the tiller first.


What About Lee Helm?

The opposite situation can also occur.

Instead of wanting to turn towards the wind, the boat naturally wants to turn away from it.

That is known as lee helm.

Some lee helm can occur because of sail balance, hull design, crew position or the particular point of sail, but persistent lee helm is generally undesirable.

Again, the important lesson is not simply to counteract it with the rudder.

Ask what has changed.

A sailing boat is a collection of forces acting above and below the water.

The sails are producing aerodynamic forces.

The centreboard, keel and rudder are producing hydrodynamic forces.

The hull is moving through the water.

The crew are moving the boat's centre of gravity.

Change one of those things and the balance of the whole system can change.

You feel some of that interaction through the tiller.


Try Steering With Two Fingers

Here is a very simple exercise.

When conditions are suitable and you are sailing steadily, try holding the tiller extension very lightly.

Perhaps just between your fingers rather than gripping it firmly.

Suddenly you will notice things that were being hidden by your grip.

You may feel small changes in load.

You may notice the helm becoming heavier as a gust arrives.

You may discover that you are constantly making tiny corrections that are not actually necessary.

Most importantly, you begin to separate two different jobs.

Steering the boat.

And:

feeling the boat.

A light grip allows both.

A clenched fist usually allows only the first.


Let the Boat Run Straight

Another useful exercise is to see how little steering you actually need.

Choose a steady course and concentrate on keeping the boat balanced rather than steering it continually.

Keep your eyes looking ahead rather than staring at the bow.

Trim the sails.

Keep the boat reasonably flat.

Then make the smallest tiller movements you can.

You may be surprised how straight a properly balanced boat wants to travel.

This is one of the great transitions from beginner sailing to better sailing.

At first, we steer the boat constantly.

Later, we increasingly set the boat up so that it almost steers itself.


The Rudder Should Correct — Not Compensate

There is an important distinction here.

The rudder is an excellent tool for correcting the boat's course.

It is a poor substitute for correct balance.

Imagine sailing in a gust with the boat badly overpowered.

You could apply a large amount of rudder and force the boat to follow the desired direction.

But while you are doing that, the rudder is generating substantial drag.

Alternatively, you might flatten the boat, adjust the mainsheet and restore the balance.

The tiller load drops.

The rudder returns closer to the centreline.

The boat accelerates.

That difference is fundamental.

The first sailor is forcing the boat around the course.

The second sailor is helping the boat sail efficiently.


This Becomes Particularly Interesting on Champagne

Sailing Champagne makes this subject especially interesting.

An A-Rater is very different from a conventional training dinghy.

The boat is long, narrow and capable of travelling quickly, and small changes in balance can become very noticeable.

There is also something wonderfully direct about feeling what such a long hull is doing through the rudder.

When the boat is moving well and properly balanced, the helm can feel remarkably clean.

But once the boat begins to heel excessively, the sail balance changes or the rudder starts being asked to do too much, the feedback becomes much more obvious.

You can almost think of the tiller as part of the boat's instrumentation.

There is no digital display saying:

"Too much rudder."

There is no warning lamp saying:

"Boat out of balance."

Instead, you feel it through your hand.

That makes Champagne a particularly interesting boat on which to explore the idea that steering is not simply about pointing the bow.

It is about understanding what the whole boat is doing.


A Long Hull Makes Poor Steering Expensive

Long, narrow boats also make another lesson very clear.

Momentum matters.

Once Champagne is moving quickly, maintaining smooth flow is extremely valuable.

Large, repeated helm movements interfere with that.

A badly timed correction can scrub off speed that took time and distance to build.

The objective therefore becomes increasingly subtle.

You want to anticipate rather than correct.

That connects directly with several of the skills we have already looked at in this series.

Read the water.

See the gust coming.

Move the crew before the boat heels dramatically.

Adjust the sails before they become badly overpowered.

Recognise the wind shift before you find yourself fighting the helm.

If you do those things successfully, you may hardly need to move the tiller at all.


Rudder Movement Is Sometimes a Symptom

Watch another boat sailing upwind and look at its rudder or tiller.

If the helm is continually pushing and pulling it backwards and forwards, ask yourself why.

It could be poor steering technique.

But it could equally indicate:

excessive heel,

poor sail balance,

a sailor reacting late to gusts,

the boat repeatedly wandering off course,

or an attempt to compensate for something that should have been corrected elsewhere.

This is a useful habit because it moves your attention away from individual controls.

Sailing becomes less about:

"What should I do with the tiller?"

and more about:

"What is the whole boat telling me?"

That is a much more powerful question.


Do Not Grip the Tiller Like a Steering Wheel

Beginners often grip the tiller extension very firmly.

It feels reassuring.

Unfortunately, it also reduces sensitivity.

Imagine trying to feel the texture of a surface through a thick pair of gloves.

A heavy grip on the tiller does something similar.

Where conditions allow, relax the hand.

Keep the wrist mobile.

Let the tiller transmit information.

You are not wrestling the boat into submission.

You are communicating with it.

Of course there will be occasions when stronger steering movements are necessary — manoeuvring, avoiding another boat, dealing with a sudden gust or recovering from a mistake.

But during normal sailing, smoothness is usually preferable.


Try a Simple Helm Experiment

Next time you are sailing upwind in moderate conditions, try this sequence.

First, establish a normal course and notice the pressure on the tiller.

Then allow the boat to heel slightly more.

What happens to the helm?

Flatten the boat again.

Does the pressure reduce?

Now experiment carefully with mainsail trim.

Does the tiller pressure change?

Try moving your weight slightly fore or aft if appropriate for the boat.

Again, notice what happens.

The objective is not to find one universal setting.

Different boats behave differently.

The objective is to build a connection between:

what you change

and

what you feel through the helm.

That is how sensitivity develops.


The Best Steering Often Looks Almost Boring

There is something slightly disappointing about watching really good steering.

It often does not look dramatic.

There are no heroic sweeps of the tiller.

No constant wrestling with the boat.

Sometimes there appears to be almost no steering at all.

That is because much of the work has already happened.

The sailor has seen the gust.

The boat has been flattened.

The sails have been adjusted.

The course has been anticipated.

The sailor is looking well ahead.

The helm is balanced.

So the rudder only needs tiny corrections.

That apparently effortless sailing is not passive.

It is the result of constant observation.


Listen to the Boat

One of the themes running through this series is that improving as a sailor often means learning to notice things earlier.

We looked at seeing gusts on the water.

Recognising headers and lifts.

Keeping the boat flat.

Preparing before the gust arrives.

The tiller provides another source of information.

You can feel when the boat becomes loaded.

You can feel when it begins fighting you.

You can feel when the balance returns.

And eventually those sensations become almost automatic.

You stop consciously thinking:

"There is increased weather helm, so perhaps the boat has heeled too much."

You simply feel the helm load up and respond.

That is one of the moments when sailing begins to move from operating a boat to genuinely understanding one.

So next time you go sailing, do not simply ask:

"Where should I point the tiller?"

Try asking:

"What is the tiller trying to tell me?"

Because quite often the rudder is not the problem.

It is simply the messenger.

Return to pmrsailing.uk https://pmrsailing.uk/sailing-lessons/How-to-sail-better.html

Sunday, 20 September 2026

Why Keeping the Boat Flat Usually Makes It Faster

Why Keeping the Boat Flat Usually Makes It Faster

The boat leaning further over does not necessarily mean it is going faster.

One of the most convincing sensations when you first start sailing is heel.

The wind fills the sails, the boat accelerates, the gunwale moves towards the water and suddenly everything feels much more exciting. It is therefore very easy to make the connection:

More heel = more wind = more speed.

The first part may be true. The second often is not.

In many dinghies, once the boat heels beyond its efficient sailing angle, it actually begins to slow down. The rudder works harder, the centreboard becomes less effective, the sails are no longer producing their force in the most useful direction and the hull itself may be presenting a less efficient shape to the water.

Quite often, the faster sailor is the one whose boat looks rather less dramatic.

And that becomes particularly noticeable when moving from a stable training dinghy to something long, narrow and responsive such as an A-Rater.

Heel Is Not the Same Thing as Speed

First, we need to distinguish between two things that often happen at the same time.

A gust arrives.

The aerodynamic force on the sails increases.

The boat accelerates.

The boat also heels.

It is tempting to conclude that the heel caused the speed.

It did not.

Both were consequences of the increased wind force.

If the boat then heels too far, some of the additional energy from that gust is effectively wasted rather than being converted into forward motion.

A useful way of thinking about it is:

The object is not to stop the wind pushing on the sails. The object is to turn as much of that force as possible into useful forward movement.

That is where boat balance becomes so important.

What Happens When a Dinghy Heels?

A sailing dinghy is designed to work as a complete system.

The sails produce aerodynamic force above the water.

The centreboard or daggerboard produces hydrodynamic force below the water.

The hull moves through the water.

The rudder controls direction.

The crew move their weight to control balance.

When the boat is reasonably upright, all of these components can work together efficiently.

When the boat heels excessively, several things begin to change at once.

1. The Sail Force Becomes Less Useful

Imagine a boat sailing upright.

The mast is approximately vertical, so the sail is standing upright as well.

The aerodynamic force generated by the sail has both a sideways component and a forward component. The sideways component is resisted principally by the centreboard and hull, while the forward component drives the boat.

Now heel the boat considerably.

The sails are no longer vertical.

Some of their force is effectively directed differently relative to the boat and water, and the geometry becomes less favourable.

There is another important effect.

As the masthead moves sideways with heel, the effective vertical height of the rig above the water decreases.

You have taken a tall sail plan and tilted it over.

In strong winds that can sometimes be useful because it reduces the effective driving force and helps depower the boat. But if your aim is maximum speed, deliberately allowing excessive heel is normally an inefficient way of managing the power.

Good sailors try to control the power rather than simply allowing the boat to fall over under it.

2. The Centreboard Works Best When It Is in the Right Orientation

The centreboard is not merely there to stop the boat drifting sideways.

It is effectively an underwater foil.

As the boat moves through the water, the board helps produce the sideways force necessary to oppose the sideways component of the sail force.

When the boat is upright, the board is approximately vertical.

Heel the boat substantially and the board tilts as well.

Part of the force it produces is then directed vertically rather than horizontally.

That means less of its effort is being used for the job we particularly want it to do: preventing sideways movement.

On an upwind leg, this matters enormously.

A boat can appear to be moving quickly through the water while quietly slipping sideways.

The sailor may feel fast.

The GPS may even show reasonable boat speed.

Yet another boat, sailing flatter, may be making much better progress towards the windward mark.

That distinction between speed through the water and useful progress towards your destination is one of the important steps in becoming a better sailor.

3. The Rudder Starts Working Overtime

This is one of the effects that beginners can actually feel through the tiller.

As many dinghies heel, they develop increasing weather helm.

Weather helm is the tendency of the boat to turn towards the wind.

A small amount can be useful. It gives some feedback through the tiller and provides a degree of inherent safety because a boat that is released may tend to turn towards the wind and depower.

Too much weather helm is different.

Now the helm has to pull or push the tiller significantly simply to keep the boat travelling in a straight line.

That means the rudder is no longer sitting approximately in line with the water flow.

It is operating at an angle.

And an angled rudder produces drag.

You are effectively dragging a brake through the water while trying to sail faster.

This produces one of my favourite practical indicators of whether a boat is balanced:

How hard are you having to pull on the tiller?

If you are fighting it continuously, something is probably wrong.

Rather than simply using more rudder, look at the whole boat.

Is it heeling too much?

Is the mainsail over-sheeted?

Should the crew move further out?

Should the mainsheet be eased slightly?

The tiller often tells you about a problem that started somewhere else.

4. The Hull May Become Less Efficient

Dinghy hulls are designed with particular waterlines in mind.

When the boat heels, the shape of the hull that is actually touching the water changes.

On some boats, a little heel can reduce wetted surface in very light winds and may occasionally be useful.

But as heel increases, particularly in moderate and stronger winds, the underwater shape may become increasingly asymmetric.

This can contribute to steering forces and increase drag.

The stern and bow may also sit differently in the water.

The result can be a boat that feels tremendously energetic while actually travelling less efficiently.

This is particularly interesting because our senses are not very good speed instruments.

Spray, noise, movement and heel all make a boat feel fast.

A quietly balanced boat can sometimes be travelling considerably faster.

5. Excessive Heel Changes the Sail Shape

The problem is not simply that the entire sail tilts.

The rig itself is under changing loads.

Mast bend, leech tension, mainsheet load and the relationship between mainsail and jib can all change.

On a simple training dinghy you may not consciously notice most of this.

You may simply discover that the boat becomes harder to control.

On a more sophisticated racing boat, small changes can be much more noticeable.

The objective is to keep the sails working efficiently while controlling their power.

That distinction matters.

Depowering a sail efficiently is not the same as simply letting the boat heel until something gives.

A Training Dinghy Makes the Lesson Forgiving

A good training dinghy is deliberately forgiving.

Take a stable two-person training boat.

A gust arrives.

The boat heels.

The crew move their weight out.

The helm eases the mainsheet slightly.

The boat comes upright and accelerates.

If the response is a little late, there is normally time to recover.

That is one reason these boats are such good teaching platforms. They allow the sailor to experience what happens without every mistake immediately becoming dramatic.

You can deliberately experiment.

Sail on a close reach in a reasonable breeze and notice the tiller pressure.

Then allow the boat to heel more than necessary.

Notice what happens.

Does the tiller become heavier?

Does the boat try to round into the wind?

Now move the crew weight out and flatten the boat.

Quite often the tiller becomes lighter almost immediately.

That is not theory from a textbook.

You can feel it through your hand.

Then Try the Same Thing in an A-Rater

Move to something like Champagne and the same principles remain, but the consequences become more obvious.

An A-Rater is long, narrow and carries a substantial sail area.

There are also several people aboard whose combined weight represents an important part of the boat's balance.

A gust arriving is therefore not merely something for the helm to deal with.

It is something for the entire crew to anticipate.

If everyone remains comfortably inboard while the wind increases, the boat can heel rapidly.

The helm then has several problems at once.

The rudder load increases.

The boat wants to turn towards the wind.

The sail forces are changing.

The crew may suddenly decide to move simultaneously.

And the helm may instinctively try to solve everything with the tiller.

That is usually rather late.

The better solution began several seconds earlier.

Someone saw the gust approaching.

The crew were warned.

Weight moved before the gust fully arrived.

The mainsheet was prepared.

The boat remained comparatively flat.

And instead of the gust knocking the boat sideways, more of its energy was converted into speed.

That is a very different sensation.

The boat does not necessarily feel as dramatic.

It simply accelerates.

Flat Does Not Mean Completely Level at All Times

There is an important qualification.

"Keep the boat flat" is a useful coaching instruction, but it should not be interpreted as:

The mast must always be exactly vertical.

Different boats have different optimum sailing attitudes.

A small amount of heel can sometimes be useful.

In very light winds, sailors may deliberately heel a dinghy slightly to reduce wetted surface, encourage the sails to fall into a useful shape or give the helm a little more feel.

Traditional boats may have hull forms that behave differently from modern planing dinghies.

Downwind sailing introduces still more considerations.

So the real principle is not:

Heel is bad.

It is:

Uncontrolled and unnecessary heel is usually inefficient.

That is a much more useful rule.

Why Beginners Often Let the Boat Heel

There is also a very human reason for it.

Moving your body out over the side of a boat initially feels uncomfortable.

Leaning backwards while your feet are held under toe straps can seem rather unnatural.

Easing the mainsheet when a gust arrives can also feel counterintuitive.

Surely, if the sail is producing power, we should keep all of it?

So the beginner often remains sitting fairly upright while gripping the mainsheet tightly.

The boat heels.

The helm pulls harder on the tiller.

The boat rounds up.

Then the helm turns the rudder more aggressively to compensate.

Now we have:

more heel,

more rudder angle,

more drag,

less effective centreboard,

and less controlled sail power.

What started as one small balance problem has spread through the entire boat.

Hiking Is Not Just About Stopping a Capsize

This is another important change in thinking.

Beginners often assume that hiking out is something you do to stop the boat capsizing.

It certainly helps with that.

But hiking is also a performance technique.

Moving your weight out provides a righting moment.

The wind is trying to rotate the boat one way.

Your body weight is helping rotate it the other way.

The further your mass is from the centreline, the greater that balancing effect.

You therefore allow the sails to generate substantial aerodynamic force while keeping the hull and foils closer to their efficient orientation.

You are not merely preventing disaster.

You are helping the boat convert wind energy into speed.

Sometimes Ease Before You Steer

Suppose a gust hits and the boat suddenly heels hard.

A beginner's instinct may be to steer sharply into the wind.

That works because turning towards the wind reduces the aerodynamic force on the sails.

But large rudder movements create drag.

Sometimes a better sequence is:

move your weight appropriately,

ease the mainsheet enough to control the power,

keep the boat flatter,

and make only the steering correction that is actually necessary.

Of course, conditions differ. In a very powerful gust, steering towards the wind may be exactly what is required.

The important point is that the rudder should not be your only control.

You have several controls available simultaneously:

your body weight,

the mainsheet,

the boat's heading,

the traveller or other sail controls where fitted,

and the actions of the crew.

Good sailing comes from coordinating them.

Watch the Top Sailors

One of the most useful things a developing sailor can do is watch an experienced fleet in a strong, gusty breeze.

Do not just look at who is in front.

Look at the boats themselves.

You will often see one sailor apparently having a tremendously exciting time.

The boat heels sharply in every gust.

The rudder moves constantly.

The sail is repeatedly pulled in and dumped.

Everything looks busy.

Then look at one of the better-balanced boats.

The crew move before the gust.

The sail is adjusted smoothly.

The tiller movements are small.

The hull remains remarkably level.

And the boat simply moves away.

Fast sailing often looks surprisingly uneventful.

A Simple Exercise for Your Next Sail

The next time you are sailing upwind or on a close reach in a moderate breeze, spend a few minutes concentrating on just three things.

First, notice heel.

Second, notice tiller pressure.

Third, notice speed.

Allow the boat to heel a little more than you normally would and feel what happens to the tiller.

Then deliberately flatten the boat with body weight and appropriate sail adjustment.

Do not stare at the sails while doing this.

Look ahead.

Feel the tiller.

Listen to the water.

Watch another boat if one is nearby.

You may discover that when everything becomes quieter and easier, you are actually going faster.

That is one of sailing's wonderful contradictions.

The Gust Should Accelerate You, Not Knock You Over

Ultimately, this connects with a much bigger sailing skill: anticipation.

If you wait until the boat is already heeling dramatically before responding to a gust, you are reacting.

If you see the darker patch of water approaching, warn the crew, shift your weight and prepare the sheet before it arrives, you are sailing ahead of the boat.

That distinction becomes increasingly important as boats become faster and more powerful.

In a forgiving training dinghy, you may have several seconds to correct the problem.

On Champagne, with her long narrow hull, substantial rig and several crew aboard, the response needs to be coordinated much earlier.

And that is one of the reasons sailing a more demanding boat teaches so much.

It magnifies the principles that were present in the training boat all along.

Conclusion — Fast Often Feels Surprisingly Calm

Dramatic heel makes wonderful photographs.

It produces spray, excitement and plenty of stories afterwards.

But it is not necessarily fast.

A well-balanced dinghy uses its sails, centreboard, hull and rudder as one coordinated system. Excessive heel disrupts that relationship. The centreboard becomes less effective, the rudder works harder, weather helm increases and some of the wind's energy is wasted.

The developing sailor therefore needs to make an important change in thinking.

Do not ask:

"How much wind can I hang on to?"

Ask:

"How efficiently can I turn this wind into forward motion?"

Very often the answer begins by moving your weight, controlling the mainsheet and keeping the boat flatter.

The spectacular boat may look faster.

The flat boat may simply sail past it.

And perhaps that is one of the great lessons of sailing: speed does not always look dramatic. Sometimes it looks beautifully controlled.

Return to pmrsailing.uk https://pmrsailing.uk/sailing-lessons/How-to-sail-better.html

 

Why Small Adjustments Often Beat Big Ones The fastest sail adjustment may be only two centimetres

  Why Small Adjustments Often Beat Big Ones The fastest sail adjustment may be only two centimetres One of the easiest habits to develop whe...