Friday, 21 November 2025

Reading the River: Spotting Subtle Stream Changes

How to read the tiny ripples, swirls and patterns that show where the river will push your boat

When you first start sailing on the Thames, you quickly discover that the river has opinions. Strong ones. The wind may be doing something sensible, but the stream often decides otherwise, dragging your boat sideways, backwards, or into a willow tree you were sure you’d avoided.

Understanding the stream is one of the most valuable skills you can learn as a Thames sailor. While the wind is what powers your boat, the river quietly decides where it actually ends up.

Today’s blog looks at how to spot the tiny ripples, swirls and disturbances that tell you what the stream is really up to.

1. Look for the “Texture Change” on the Surface

The river is rarely uniform. Even on calm days, you’ll see patches where the surface looks slightly darker or shinier.

What it means:

Dark, “glassy” water often means faster stream.
Ruffled, rippled water usually means slower stream or wind influence.
A sudden line between textures marks a boundary—crossing it can shift your boat sideways.

Next time you sail upwind and feel the boat mysteriously stalling, check if you've just crossed into a faster-flowing patch.

2. Watch for Tiny V-Shaped Ripples

These are among the most useful clues on the Thames.

A V-shape pointing downstream usually indicates something just beneath the surface, like:

A shallow patch
A mooring chain
A tree root
A sneaky bit of shopping trolley (you’d be surprised)

The water speeds up around the obstacle and may knock your boat off course.

Tip: Sail outside the V’s arms unless you enjoy sudden sideways movements.

3. Study the Swirls and Eddies

Eddies are the river’s way of telling you: “Something interesting happened here.”

They often appear:

Downstream of islands
Along moored boats
Behind bridge piles
Where two currents meet

A spinning whirlpool isn’t going to swallow the RS Toura, but sailing through one can swing the bow or stall the boat just when you need momentum for a tack.

Learn to spot the rotating patterns: the moment you see one, you can anticipate how the boat will twist as it enters.

4. Where the Wind and Stream Don’t Match

A very typical Thames situation:

The wind says “go left”.
The stream says “I’d rather you didn’t.”

You’ll often see ripples that run at a different angle to the wind direction—this is the stream writing its own story across the surface.

If sail trim feels wrong but the boat still won’t accelerate, the flow beneath you may be negating everything you're doing above the surface.

5. The Bank Tells Stories

Always glance at the bank as you sail past.

Clues include:

Leaves drifting faster near one bank than the other
Foam or bubbles accumulating in eddies
Reeds bending downstream more strongly in certain sections

The river rarely flows evenly bank-to-bank. Sometimes one side gives you a lovely lift; sometimes it’s a conveyor belt to nowhere.

6. The Classic Mistake: Only Looking at the Sail

New sailors understandably focus on the sail and tiller. But on a river, you sail the water more than the wind.

A simple habit:
Look ahead, at the surface, twice as often as you look at the sail.
This alone will improve your control dramatically.

7. How to Practise Reading the River

Next time you're on safety boat duty or cruising upstream:

Look for a patch of smooth water and predict how the boat will behave as you enter it.
Try steering toward an eddy deliberately and watch the bow swing.
Compare your prediction of stream strength with the wake behind your boat.

You’ll start to see patterns that make sailing on the Thames far more predictable—and far more enjoyable.

Final Thought

Reading the river is a quiet art. It’s part observation, part intuition, and part “why did my boat suddenly spin through 30 degrees just then?”. With practice, the ripples and swirls start to make sense, and you’ll find yourself working with the river, rather than fighting it.

Next time the Thames gives you a puzzled look, try reading the signs on its surface. They’re all there—you just need to know what to look for.

Thursday, 20 November 2025

How to Sit Comfortably and Safely in an RS Toura or Similar Dinghy

Sitting properly in a dinghy sounds obvious – until you realise just how much difference it makes to your comfort, safety and control of the boat. The RS Toura, with its wide, open cockpit and stable hull, gives you plenty of options for where to put yourself. But not all positions are equal, especially on a river like the Thames where the wind can shift without warning and the boat’s trim changes constantly.

Here’s how to find the most comfortable and safe way to sit in a Toura (or any similar training dinghy) whether you’re helming or crewing.

1. Keep Your Weight Low and Centred

A dinghy is happiest when its crew stay low and balanced. Sitting too high, too far forward, or too far aft makes the boat feel twitchy, especially in gusts.

A good rule:
If you feel as though you’re about to topple overboard, you’re probably sitting too high.

Best practice:

Sit on the windward side in upwind sailing.
Keep your bottom just on the side deck or the edge of the thwart.
Tuck your feet under the toestraps when possible.

This gives you stability and allows you to react quickly to changes in balance.

2. Use the Boat’s Shape to Support You

The Toura’s side decks and the inner gunwale lip are designed to help you secure yourself. Use them.

For helms:

Sit slightly aft of the centreboard case, knees bent, feet braced.
Keep the tiller extension hand relaxed – no death grip required.

For crew:

Sit where you can move smoothly between tacks.
Use the thwart or deck edge to stabilise yourself without locking your body rigid.

3. Keep Your Knees Free – Avoid the “Helm Pretzel”

A very common mistake (which we all do at some point) is twisting yourself into an impossible shape around the tiller extension. Once tangled, you can’t swap sides cleanly during a tack.

To avoid this:

Keep your feet clear of the tiller and mainsheet.
Move your hips first when changing sides.
Let the tiller extension follow your hand rather than forcing it across you.

Smoothness equals comfort – and fewer unexpected swims.

4. Move Before the Boat Tells You To

In a dinghy, sitting is active, not passive. The boat reacts strongly to weight shifts, so a little anticipatory movement keeps everything controlled.

Before a gust hits: Move gently to windward.
Before a lull: Ease back towards the centreline.
Before a tack: Prepare early so your movements stay unhurried.

Small adjustments keep the boat flatter and reduce strain on both helm and crew.

5. Protect Your Back and Legs

Dinghy sailing is fun, but it involves a lot of crouching and bracing. A few simple habits protect your body.

Tips:

Keep your spine neutral and avoid slumping.
Stretch your legs occasionally on long reaches.
Wear grippy, supportive footwear for better bracing.
Use the toerails and straps to distribute weight evenly.

Comfort leads to confidence – and confidence leads to better sailing.

6. Communicate with Your Crew

The RS Toura is a big dinghy, and comfort depends on coordination.

Simple exchanges like:

“I’m going forward.”
“Moving to windward.”
“Ready to tack.”

…prevent the boat lurching because both sailors move at once.

7. Practice Makes Flexible

The more time you spend sitting in the right positions, the more natural it feels. After a few sessions, you’ll instinctively know how to brace, slide, lean and trim without thinking.

If you’re learning later in life (like many of us!), don’t rush it. Comfort and safety come from technique, not youth or athleticism.

Final Thoughts

Sitting comfortably in a dinghy is a skill hidden in plain sight. Get it right, and the boat feels lighter, steering becomes easier, and you stay safer and drier. The RS Toura rewards calm, balanced sailors – and the Thames rewards those who stay adaptable.

Next time you’re out on the water, spend a moment finding the right place to perch. Your back, your crew, and your boat will all thank you.

Wednesday, 19 November 2025

Sailing Terms You Need to Know: Halyard

If you’re new to sailing, boat jargon can feel like learning a new language — one spoken almost entirely in short, sharp words shouted across the river. “Ease the halyard!”, “Hoist the main halyard!”, “Is that the jib halyard you’ve just dropped in the water?”
Yes… it happens.

One of the most important bits of terminology to get to grips with is the halyard.

So, what is a halyard?

A halyard (pronounced HALL-yard) is the rope — or “line,” in proper sailing speak — used to hoist or lower a sail.

If you want your sail to go up, you pull the halyard.
If you want your sail to come down, you release the halyard.
If you want your sail halfway up because you’ve hoisted the wrong one — well, that’s a different story entirely.

Why is the halyard important?

Because without it, you’re basically paddling home.

A well-set halyard:

Gets the sail to the top of the mast, giving the sail its correct shape
Helps the boat generate lift and speed
Keeps everything tidy and controlled in the cockpit
Stops the sail falling on your head at inconvenient moments

Different sails have different halyards:

Main halyard – raises the mainsail
Jib halyard – raises the jib
Spinnaker halyard – raises the (usually colourful) spinnaker

And in dinghy sailing — especially on the Thames — you’ll find them all put to good use.

How do you use a halyard properly?

Check the sail is rigged correctly.
The head of the sail should be securely attached to the halyard shackle.
Hoist smoothly.
Pull hand-over-hand until the sail reaches the top of the mast.
Tension matters.
Too loose and the sail wrinkles; too tight and you may damage the sail or fittings.
Cleat it securely.
Nobody wants a mainsail dropping at the exact moment you’re tacking in front of the clubhouse balcony crowd.

Want to go deeper?

You’ll find diagrams, photos, and a clear explanation here:
👉 https://pmrsailing.uk/sailing-lessons/sailing-terms-list/Halyard.html

Tuesday, 18 November 2025

How to Set an Anchor from a Safety Boat

Anchoring sounds simple — drop a lump of metal over the side and hope for the best — but when you’re running a Safety Boat on the River Thames, the technique matters. A well-set anchor keeps you steady during rescues, training sessions, and when filming those “hero shots” of dinghies streaking past Bourne End. A badly-set anchor… well, that’s how you end up drifting gently into the reeds while pretending it was intentional.

Here’s a clear and practical guide to setting an anchor properly from a safety boat, using methods recommended by professional RYA instructors.

1. Choose Your Spot

Pick a location with:

Enough depth for the scope you’ll need
No weed beds (anchors just skate over them)
Space for the boat to swing with wind and stream
No racing boats aiming directly at you

On the Thames, beware strong stream: you may drift faster than you think.

2. Lower the Anchor — Never Throw It

Once you’re stationary:

Put the engine in neutral
Lower the anchor hand over hand until it touches the riverbed
Don’t chuck it — tangled chain or rope means the anchor won’t bite

3. Reverse Gently to Set the Anchor

With the anchor on the bottom:

Let the stream take you back slightly
OR apply a gentle tick-over reverse
This straightens the chain/warp and helps the anchor dig in.

If the rope goes slack and then pulls tight smoothly, it’s setting well.

If it jerks violently or skips, you’re dragging — reset it.

4. Pay Out the Correct Scope

Scope = length of warp or chain compared to depth of water.

For river work:

3:1 scope is typically enough for a safety boat
More scope in high stream or wind

Let out the warp steadily and cleat it off securely.

5. Secure to a Cleat

Finish by:

Wrapping the rope around the cleat in a figure-of-eight
Adding a final locking turn
Checking there’s no chafe on the gunwale or bow roller

Give the boat a final check: if it stays pointing steadily into the stream, you’re set.

6. Common Anchoring Mistakes

❌ Throwing the anchor
❌ Setting with too little scope
❌ Letting the warp tangle around the outboard
❌ Forgetting to tie the warp onto the boat (yes… it happens)

Why Anchoring Matters

A securely anchored safety boat gives you:

A stable filming platform
A reliable position from which to brief sailors
Somewhere safe to drift during rescues
Confidence that you’re not creeping into the racing line

Done well, anchoring makes your safety boat work look calm and effortless — even when everything else around you is chaos!

Monday, 17 November 2025

When the River’s in Flood – What to Watch Out For

There are days when you look at the River Thames and instantly know it’s up to mischief. The water’s higher, faster, browner, and charging past the moorings with all the enthusiasm of a Labrador that’s spotted an open gate. The Environment Agency boards have flipped to yellow or red, the landing stage creaks under the strain, and even the ducks are thinking twice about where to stand.

Sailing in flood conditions isn’t just “a bit lively” – it’s a completely different sport. If you’re learning to sail, teaching someone else, or simply trying to avoid ending up in Maidenhead unexpectedly, here’s what I’ve learned about the Thames when she’s running fast.

The Stream Takes Charge – Whether You Like It or Not

Normally, when the river is calm, you have a reasonable say in where your dinghy goes. In a flood, the stream has other ideas. It grabs the boat, drags it sideways, and does its best to introduce you to every overhanging branch within half a mile.

Tacking becomes an Olympic event. Landing at the club waterfront becomes a lottery. And if you miss the mooring? Well… there’s always Bourne End and a long walk back.

Debris: The Moving Obstacle Course

One of the more charming features of a flooded Thames is the endless supply of floating “treasures”:
• tree branches
• fence posts
• footballs
• the occasional unidentifiable object that you hope is just a log

These happily lurk just below the surface and pop up at the worst possible moment. A fast-moving dinghy meeting a half-submerged branch is not something you want to experience twice.

Always look upstream, keep the crew on watch, and remember that debris can move surprisingly quickly in a strong stream.

Launching and Landing – The Tricky Bits

Launching in a flood can feel like stepping onto an escalator that’s going the wrong way. You push the bow out, hop in, and whoosh—the stream is already dragging you halfway to Cookham before you’ve even sorted the jib.

Landing is even more fun. The usual gentle approach becomes a high-stakes exercise in timing, angle, and optimism. If you come in too slowly, the stream sweeps you right past the jetty. Too fast, and you might arrive with enthusiasm but not with dignity.

A safety boat on standby is an absolute must.

Reduced Space and Faster Consequences

On a normal day, the Thames gives you room to get things wrong. In flood conditions, that margin evaporates.

The channel narrows. The stream accelerates. Every manoeuvre needs to be planned several boat lengths earlier than usual. If you miss a tack, you don’t just lose momentum—you lose half the river.

It’s excellent for teaching quick decision-making. It’s less excellent for staying relaxed.

The Invisible Hazards

High water hides everything you normally rely on:

submerged mooring lines
the edge of the slipway
the exact position of that shallow bit that everyone forgets about
the weeds that snatch at your centreboard

You can be sailing over what appears to be smooth brown water only to find the rudder scraping the bottom because the river has changed shape again.

When NOT to Sail

There’s a certain romance in battling the elements, but there’s also wisdom in admitting defeat. Flood conditions are one of the few times when staying ashore is the correct seamanship.

If the EA boards show red, the stream is roaring, the pontoon is lifting, and the only boats moving are trees, then it’s officially “coffee-in-the-clubhouse weather.”

Even experienced sailors at Upper Thames sometimes give the river a respectful nod and stay off it until things calm down.

**What You Can Do on a Flood Day**

Just because you’re not sailing doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the river:

check and tidy your boat
practice knots
help with safety boat maintenance
film some atmospheric flood-flow footage
write yet another blog entry about how much you wanted to sail today
drink tea and chat about the glory days when the stream was only half as fierce

A River Worth Respecting

The Thames is beautiful all year round, but in flood she demands respect. It’s not about being fearless; it’s about knowing when she's in one of her moods. Once the water drops, the boards go back to green, and the stream calms down, we can get back to tacking practise, gybing drills, and the usual gentle chaos of learning to sail at 65+.

Until then, stay safe, stay sensible, and remember—no one ever regretted not launching in a flood.

Sunday, 16 November 2025

Winter Dinghy Sailing – How to Stay Warm and Dry

Winter on the Thames can be glorious: low sunshine glinting off the water, quiet reaches, and the satisfying feeling that you are one of the hardy few who sail all year. It can also be bitterly cold, wet, and thoroughly miserable if you are unprepared. Staying warm and dry is not luck; it is planning.

Layering Matters
Start with a proper thermal base layer that wicks moisture away. Add a mid-layer for insulation, and top it with a windproof and waterproof outer layer. Cotton is the enemy in winter; once it is wet, it stays wet. Technical fabrics win every time.

Hands, Feet, and Head
Extremities suffer first. Sailing gloves with thermal liners help keep some feeling in your fingers for rigging and sheeting. Neoprene boots with thick socks (wool or synthetic) make a huge difference. A fleece-lined beanie or neoprene cap under the helmet or hood is essential, especially when the wind cuts across the river.

Spray Tops and Dry Gear
A good spray top or dry smock is worth its weight in gold. If you regularly find yourself inverted during practice sessions, consider a full drysuit. They are not cheap, but they prevent that creeping cold that starts at your ankles and spreads upwards after every capsize.

Stay Ahead of the Cold
The cold creeps in when you stop moving. Before launching, adjust your clothing, tighten wrist and neck seals, and check for gaps. Have a plan: what will you do if you end up in the water? How long will you be out? Knowing this helps you choose the right kit.

Safety Boat Awareness
Winter safety boat cover is more than a formality. Hypothermia sets in quickly in cold water. Make sure someone ashore knows you are out, check radios, and keep to areas where safety boats can reach you promptly.

Hot Drinks and Dry Bags
A flask onshore is excellent motivation, and a dry bag with spare gloves and a warm layer can rescue a session. If you sail with a camera boat or electric Whaly, stash your dry bag where you can get to it.

Know When Not to Sail
Sometimes it is simply too cold, too windy, or the river is too high and fast. Part of winter seamanship is recognising when to call it a day before you even rig the boat.

Winter sailing can be some of the most rewarding on the Thames. With the right kit, preparation, and a bit of realism, you can enjoy crisp, quiet days on the water while staying warm, safe, and perfectly dry.

To stay warm and dry while winter dinghy sailing, you must choose between a wetsuit and a drysuit, layer your clothing, and invest in protective accessories for your extremities. The best option depends on the air and water temperatures, as well as the likelihood of capsizing.

Wetsuit vs. drysuit

Feature	Wetsuit	Drysuit
Warmth mechanism	Traps a thin layer of water against the body, which your body heat warms up.	Creates a watertight seal to keep you completely dry, with insulation provided by layers worn underneath.
Best for	Mildly cold days where partial or temporary immersion is likely.	Extremely cold winter conditions, below 60°F (15°C) water temperature.
Layers	A thin, moisture-wicking base layer can be worn underneath.	Allows for multiple layers of thermal clothing, adapting to different temperatures.
Flexibility	Provides good flexibility for dinghy sailing, especially thinner suits.	Offers greater freedom of movement than a thick wetsuit.
Downsides	Significantly restricts movement in thicker versions required for colder temperatures.	Expensive, requires careful maintenance of seals and zippers, and is useless if a leak occurs.

Saturday, 15 November 2025

Reflections on the Water

There’s a certain magic that happens on the River Thames when the breeze drops and the water goes still. The boats drift. The sails fall slack. And the surface of the Thames becomes a mirror — reflecting every tree, buoy, paddle, and mast.

That is the time w
hen the wind drops and the sun peeks out, the river transforms into a perfect glass sheet — reflecting trees, clouds, boats, and occasionally, someone peering curiously over the side of a dinghy trying to spot if the centreboard is actually down.

It’s in these rare moments that the river photographer in all of us emerges.

On days like this, the Jib hand often has nothing to do, except wait for a hint of a breeze. So I can get the camera out and take photographs of the other boats drifting on the glass surface. A red buoy reflected crisply in the still water. The ripples from a passing swan created gentle distortions like someone was brushing the image with a soft focus filter. And in the background, the silhouette of a Wayfarer glided silently by, its sail and mast casting a flawless shadow in the water.

So how do you get the perfect reflection photo?

Here are a few tips we’ve picked up between races, while waiting for wind, or sitting in the safety boat (camera in one hand, coffee in the other):

1. Wait for the calm

Reflections only happen when the water’s still — no wind, no ripples, no passing Raters. Early mornings and windless evenings are your best bet.

2. Use the light

Golden hour (just after sunrise or before sunset) gives the water a warm glow. Harsh midday sun flattens everything. Cloudy skies can work too — especially if you’re photographing colour contrasts or shapes.

3. Get low

Kneel, crouch, or shoot from the gunwale — the lower you are, the more dramatic the reflection. Even a puddle on the hard can reflect a sail or a cloud.

4. Watch the composition

Split the image evenly, or angle the boat across the frame. Leading lines — like pontoons, ropes, or trees — help guide the eye into the picture.

5. Use what you’ve got

You don’t need a DSLR. Most phones are perfectly capable these days. Just remember to clean the lens and tap to focus.

And if all else fails… try again next week. Reflections are fleeting, just like the wind.

Whether you’re on the helm, crewing, or hiding in the reeds with a long lens, keep your eyes peeled for that magic moment.

Friday, 14 November 2025

Adventure with Rowers – Sharing the Thames

It was one of those crisp mornings on the Thames – wind light but promising, the current doing its usual thing, and Paul and I in the RS Toura ready for some gentle upstream tacking practice.

Except it wasn’t just us.

As we came around the first bend, a flotilla of rowers appeared, slicing through the water in that hypnotic, synchronised rhythm that suggests they’ve done this before breakfast. Which, of course, they had.

Now, you might think, “That’s fine, plenty of river for everyone.” And you’d be right, in theory. But rowers are facing backwards. And sailors are never quite sure which way they’re going even when they’re facing forwards. Combine this with a zig-zagging tacking course, a few tree-lined wind shadows, and a narrow reach of river, and you’ve got a ballet with absolutely no choreography.

We tried to anticipate their line, but they were coming fast — very fast — and we had just tacked right across their invisible racecourse. I shouted a friendly warning, Paul leaned the boat over to get us through the turn quicker, and the rower… didn’t hear a word. Or see us. Or alter course. We missed them by a whisker and a polite wave (from us – not them).

Over the next hour we developed a new skill: reading sculler body language. The slightly hunched shoulders meant “don’t talk to me.” The erratic wobbles meant “I didn’t expect you here.” And the laser-focused stare from the bowman in the quad? That meant “You’re in the way and you’d better move because I can’t.”

We ducked, dodged, tacked wide, gybed cautiously, and smiled a lot. It became something of a game: How many rowers could we avoid without altering our course too much or getting tangled in reeds? (Answer: most of them. The reeds, however, had the last word.)

At one point we were sailing by feel alone — the wind gone completely, and only the slap of oars and shouted encouragement from the coaching launch to guide us. We drifted. They powered past. And we waved as though it was all part of the plan.

Eventually the river cleared. We made our way back to the club, no collisions, no capsizes, just a slightly higher blood pressure and a renewed respect for backward-facing speed demons.

What we learned:

Rowers can’t see you – it’s not personal.
Speak up early if you’re going to cross their line.
Smile and wave, even when you’re thinking “port has right of way.”

It’s all part of the fun of sailing on a river – sharing the water with people who move in straight lines while we dance from side to side. Harmony, eventually.

Thursday, 13 November 2025

Turning Vanessa – A Careful Dance With a Thames B-Rater

(When You Can’t Flip Her Over, You Pivot Instead)

Restoring a 1902 Thames B-Rater like Vanessa isn’t just about sanding and varnish. Sometimes it’s about problem-solving — like how to get to the underside of the hull without flipping the whole boat over.

At over 28 feet long, Vanessa isn’t exactly lightweight, and our boat shed has a low roof, which ruled out a full rollover.

So, how do you expose the bottom for calking and painting without tipping her on her head?

The Answer? Pulleys, Patience, and Precision

We rigged up a system using pullies, ropes, and some very cautious teamwork.

One side was gently raised using a block and tackle.
The other side was lowered by shifting weight and adjusting the cradle.
The boat was tilted just enough to access the port side of the keel and hull base.
We repeated the process for the opposite side later in the day.

It’s not glamorous, but it’s safe, controlled, and most importantly — it works.

Why Bother With the Bottom?

Vanessa was leaking before she came ashore, and the calking between her planks had degraded.
Cleaning, drying, and recalking the seams is critical before she returns to the Thames.
Once sealed, she’ll also get fresh antifouling paint on the base, which helps prevent weed build-up and slows future water ingress.

What’s Next?

Some ribs need replacing, and then it’s on to floorboards and fittings.
But for now, it’s another step forward in bringing a piece of Thames sailing history back to life.

Wednesday, 12 November 2025

Sailing Term Spotlight: Outhaul

What It Does and Why It Matters for Sail Shape

The outhaul is one of those sail controls that seems simple — it just pulls the clew of the mainsail along the boom — but it has a big impact on how your boat sails.

If you want better speed, more control in different wind conditions, or to look like you know what you're doing when someone says “ease the outhaul,” then this one’s for you.

What Is the Outhaul?

The outhaul is the line or strap that pulls the clew (bottom rear corner) of the mainsail along the boom.

Pull it tight, and the sail becomes flatter.
Let it off, and the sail becomes fuller.

It adjusts the sail’s depth, which controls how much power the sail generates — especially in the lower half.

Why Adjust It?

Flat Sail (Tight Outhaul):

Better for strong winds
Less drag
Easier to depower

Full Sail (Loose Outhaul):

When to Use It

Before racing: Set it according to the forecast.
During sailing: Adjust between upwind and downwind legs if your boom setup allows.
When overpowered: Tighten it up and flatten the sail to regain control.

Top Tip:

Mark your boom with small indicators for “tight” and “loose” outhaul settings, so you can make quick, repeatable adjustments.